The "best" way is to contact a reputable plumbing contractor.
Answer 2the best way would be to hire a licensed plumber to do the job, but basicly you would start by saw cutting the cement where all the plumbing is going to go. then run the drain outside (don't forget the water lines).then tie in the water line to an existing line(this can be done inside or outside).then determine if your new drain will tie into your existing drain(you will need 1" fall per foot on your drain.if it will not make you will need to install a lift station(a system for pumping waste uphill). Answer 3It's possible that different areas have different "fall" rates, but I thought it was one quarter inch of fall per ten feet of run.j3hANS 4 - I would build a 7" high sub floor, the size of your prospective toilet/shower room. This way you wouldn't have to break any concrete. Plan the drains to run outside the wall under the new wood floor and then into the ground immediately outside the wall. Run them underground to your main drain. I've done 3 this way and it works well. 7 " gives room for a 90 degree bend right under the toilet, and room for a sanitary trap under the shower, then run shower drain to toilet drain before it exits the shop. -You don't need anything like 1" per foot fall !
A shower drain is 1 1/2 or 2 inch and a toilet needs to be either 3 or 4 inch.
You need at least a 3 in. pipe -- shower is 2 in. pipe
If you reduce the soil connection to 2" and install a trap
Use a steel ring and Tapcon concrete screws or you can use shields and regular screws.
On a standard toilet in America the drain is 12 inches from the back wall to the center of the drain.
A down line clog would cause this. The shower drain is lower than any other drain in the bathroom so it is the first to tell you of a clog in the line. Time to Roto Rooter! Y-THINK-Y The toilet and shower must have the same drain. There is a blockage somewhere after the toilet and shower drains meet. The backup takes the easiest route back which must be the shower drain. Try snaking out both drains. Start with the toilet. To do the best job, remove the toilet and start from floor level.
It might mean that there is air in the line. Maybe install a water hammer.
This indicates that it has a toilet, sink and a shower but no bathtub. A 1.50 indicates that it has a toilet, sink but no shower or bathtub.
New pressure balance faucet or you can install a pressure balance valve in the water lines behind tub or if you have a crawl space you can install it on the water lines there. But install only too the lines to tub faucet. And they are not easy no matter where you install. I would just tell everyone not to use any water till you are done with shower.
One of the easiest and least expensive fixes for this problem is to adjust the flow of water into the toilet. If the toilet fills more slowly, it will not alter the water pressure enough to change the temperature of the shower. Another possible solution, which would require the purchase of a special valve and possibly installation by a plumber, is to install a thermostat-controlled water valve in the shower to keep the water flow at a constant temperature.
A bathroom would have a toilet-sink-tub and or shower. A half bath has a toilet maybe a sink but no tub or shower.
I can be but the toilet needs to have 24" in front of it to be legal. Plus you cannot tie your shower drain in the the horizontal branch of the toilet.