You need the data sheet on the particular battery type ( wet cells, gel cells, deep cycle, etc...) to know how much current at what voltage level can be forced back into the battery without causing internal damage to it. An alternator in a car will push as much as 80 amps into a battery for a while, then drop down to a few amps. A home charger might come with a selection choice of: automatic, regular, deep cycle, float charge. The more amps it can supply, the more expensive it will cost. The 150 AH means that when it was new, it could supply as much as 20 amps for 7.5 hours (20 A x 7.5 hr = 150 AH), this is call a C20 rating. If drawing less than 20 amps, just divide 150 by actual amps drawn, to equal the theoretical time to depletion. It is very bad to run a battery down to maximum depletion level, and worst if you don't recharge it immediately. This effects the life span of battery dramaticly. Tom Luque
new alternator not charging the battery
It could be solenoid, starter, battery, alternator not CHARGING the battery or corroded battery terminals.
The battery for your truck should cost approximately $150. With installation, charging system testing fee, and taxes you might be paying in excess of $200.00.
Charge and load test battery- it may be not able to take a charge and need to be replaced You may a have blown fuseable link preventing alternator from charging battery
This may differ from area to area but, for the normal 150 sq. ft. areas the charge is averaging 50 dollars to 100 dollars. Some are charging travel time also.
Weak battery? Loose or corroded battery cables?
I don't know anything about towing trailers but the 2007 Ford F-150 owners manual shows : fuse # 106 - 30 amp maxi fuse - for trailer tow battery charge and relay # R05 - Full ISO relay - for trailer tow battery charge
Several new "smart" Lithium rechargeables (typically used in computers) must be "calibrated". This allows the microprocessor included in the battery to learn its characteristics. To do this typically requires fully charging the battery, then almost fully discharging the battery, then letting the discharged battery sit several hours, then recharging it. It is recommended you do it once every couple months. You can do it yourself with the computer, but I don't recommend this. Spend the $100 to $150 for a custom battery charger/calibrator, it saves much frustration and may prevent destroying a battery.
Behind the battery.Behind the battery.
Check your battery cables. I have replaced my negative cable twice now. It runs about 6 feet down underneath to the side of the block and it's a pain to get it tight because it's hard to reach the bolt. Until you get it good and tight, you may still experience trouble starting the van which acts just like a dead battery.
From $75 to $150
150-350