Ahhh... This on troubled me for quite some time. As with all of our lovely American cars, they love to make ***special*** tools to remove what should be an easy part to remove. Instead of just attaching the module with simple Phillips screws, the engineers at Ford decided to affix it with a 5.5mm bolt. ***however*** since the bolt is recessed about 1/2 inch, there are **no** deep well sockets that will reach it. So... You have to buy a ford "ignition module" tool to access those pesky bolts. I found one online for about 10 bucks. Also, don't buy the module from ford! They want over $215 dollars for it. I got one at checker for about $105.00.
hope this helps
Steve phx AZ
***edit to the clueless wonder aboves answer*** well since you seem to be a clueless American car basher, instead of spendin that 105.00 for the special tool, all you would have needed was a 1/4" drive 7/32" thin wall socket or just ground the outside of the socket until it fit. They use a socket head because they knew a steel bolt in an aluminum distributor housin would corrode and a phillips screw head would strip obviously, no rocket science involved there. The jap cars do the same if not worse. so for $5 max cost, you could have gotten the right socket for the job or modified one easily.
BY TechToolTime:
This is correct ,a thin wall ( expensive tool truck like MATGO, SnackOn or the likes), deep or mid-depth socket of 5.5 mm or 7/32" will fit or grind down a cheapie. And remember , you were once clueless as well.
*#*#*# Another Edit:
My 94 Taurus parts car (body rotted away at 330K) used a 6 mm head size bolt and the 95 Sable (150K daily driver used a 7/32" (aka 5.5mm) while the threads are identical. A small bench grinder plus a hand file with some cutting oil made fast work of a couple of ratty looking import sockets in the "dupes" box.
I also have a 92 Taurus (180K) as a backup and have found many "Fordsies" between the 3 models that make maintaining these gems difficult or at least aggravating at times.
Geoff in NH
ignition module is located under the distributor, where the spark plugs come out to go to the spark plugs, remove 6 bolts that hold the 3 capped distributor on, unplug the wires from both ends of module, 3 plugs, lift module out, nothing holds it in after distributor is removed, plug new module in, replace distributor.
Crook Ignition module. Guaranteed. Bolts onto side of distributor.
The ignition control module is located within the distributor housing, so you need to remove the distributor, which is held in by two bolts, remember to slack off the valve cover bolts around the distributor, this facilitates the removal process, don't worry about the valve cover gasket it's an o-ring type gasket so it will reseal itself when you tighten the valve cover bolts .
It is located under your distributor cap, behind the rotor. There are two bolts on the side of the distributor that must be loosened, take off the three wires, and it will come right out.
my ignition module for a 93 s10 was hld by two small bolts on top of the distributor. don't drop one of them into a storm drain they are not easy to buy.
5.5mm bolts are the kind of bolts that hold the ignition control module in a 1987 Ranger 2.3L. However, 5.0mm bolts may also work.
If I understand correctly, the Ignition Control Module is located inside of the distributor. To replace it remove the distributor cap, which is locted in the center rear of the engine compartment. If there is adequate room, leave the spark plug and coil wires attached. Set the cap aside and look for a wiring harnes on the bottom of the distributor. I should be attached to a small flat black module that has two small bolts holding it in place. Carefully remove the small bolts, and unplug the harness and remove the Ignition Control Module. Replace and assemble in reverse order. Make sure to get the distributor cap on the same way and do not rotate the distributor during the process.
Take the distributor cap off and it will be bolted with 2 SMALL bolts to the distributor plate. It will have 2 electrical connectors pluged into it. Remove the rotor button and it will be easy to get to.
Should be about 4-6 bolts holding the coils down to the ignition module, unscrew them bolts and then pull the coils up from ignition module, but disconnect your ground to your battery first and with precise placement, the plug wires as well
At the front of the engine, behind a plastic cover, just above the exhaust manifold. There are 4 clips that hold the cover to the ignition module. Under the cover, there are 2 bolts that secure the ignition module to the engine. Disconnect the wiring plug on the end of the ignition module. Undo the bolts and use them to extract the module, then remove the plugs as normal.
Remove the 3 coils which are help on by 2 5.5 mm bolts each. The module is now free. Remove electrical connector from ignition module. - Tech JK -----------------------------------
front of the engine above the starter,behind the coil packs (where all you spark plug wires are plugged into) remove all six 5.5 mm bolts from the ignition coils unplug two connectors on the left and one on the right.