Go to the parts store and get a cheap gauge to check the level, your system may have a slow leak that SHOULD have been caught if it was charged by pros. If not buy a can of leak sealer and add it to your system, this will also probably top off your system and get you back in business, if not add another can, IT'S EASY AS HELL REALLY!!
Most automotive AC compressors use a cycling clutch compressor, where the clutch is engaged by pressure switches which will engage the compressor clutch when the pressure reaches a predetermined low level, and disengages it when it reaches a predetermined high pressure.
sounds like elec problem, meaning power engaged and is in "on" mode or bearing shot if you mean by hand
Well, the compressor might be loose, so when it's engaged, it shakes and thus shakes the entire engine. Or, you may have a loose or broken motor or transmission mount. If this is the case, you would commonly feel some shaking that doesn't feel right and this shaking could be worsened by the compressor being engaged.
Either the compressor is not on, or is not working. The pressures are supposed to equalize when it kicks off- either when you turn it off or when it cycles and cuts itself off for a minute. If the compressor is on and engaged and you are still reading equal pressures, it has gone out.
You cannot change the compressor bearing, however, you can change the clutch bearing. Which one is bad? Is there a noise when the clutch is engaged, or not engaged?
Slightly. Although compressor is always turning, when clutch engaged there is more resistance & more load on the engine. It's probably 3-5 mi. or so gallon difference dependent upon engine.
When not engaged, the wheel spins freely. When the low pressure switch closes, it closes the electrical circuit to the compressor clutch. This actuates an electromagnet, which pulls the clutch in to engage it.
It is not just hondas that do this. Almost all cars do it to some extent. When the A/c compressor is engaged, the engine does have to work harder. Idle will increase, acceleration will decrease slightly, and you'll lose some fuel milage.
The Air conditioning compressor is likely seized. There is a clutch in the pulley that engages the compressor when the A/C is turned on. You can easily check the compressor (with engine off make sure the pulley has had time to cool off as it will be very hot) Try to turn the most center part of the pulley. If you cannot turn it by hand the compressor is seized. The smoke was MOST likely from the serpentine belt rubbing on the seized pulley when the A/C compressor was engaged. Please note that the same belt drives the power steering pump. This belt will be destroyed from the heat and must be replaced to prevent a possible steering failure.
AC Compressor clutch relay may be stuck. Remove the relay and see if the clutch releases.
Do you mean that the AC clutch does not engage the compressor? Or do you mean that the AC compressor won't turn even if the clutch is engaged? If the compressor is siezed and will not turn even if the clutch is engaged, the only choice is to replace the compressor. If you can turn the compressor by hand (understand that the belt pulley will turn freely with the engine if the clutch isn't engaged) but the compressor clutch isn't engaging, it might just be out of refrigerant. There is a sensor, usually somewhere near the receiver/dryer) that detects the "low side" refrigerant pressure. Once the refrigerant pressure at the sensor drops below a specified level, the compressor will not turn on. In other words, if the compressor clutch won't engage it might just be out of refrigerant.
It would take some trial/error and a few belt purchases to get just the right length, but there is no benefit. If air is not on, clutch is not engaged on it so no drag or horsepower loss.