Jack and tire wrench. You will need to jack up the car and remove the wheel of course. Jackstands are a good idea too. I just did it for a 94 Towncar. The calipers can be removed by inserting a suitably sized Torx wrench (mine was a socket that fit on my ratchet) into the two mounting bolts that face inwards - away from you. These bolts are hard to see. If you don't have a Torx wrench and you plan on doing work on cars in the future, you may as well buy a set. A screwdriver at the top of the pads will help loosen the calipers/pads, and then the top of the caliper should slide out, followed by the bottom, which has a clip that fixes it to the bracket. Then the pads can be popped out by hand or with a screwdriver. Mechanics iron wire or a cut and bent coathanger can be fashioned to support the caliper from the body frame - generally you do not want to remove the hydraulic brake line unless it is damaged or leaking - and you do not want to cause that damage by letting the caliper dangle on its brakeline. If the parking brake has worn a ridge into the drum area of the rotor, the star wheel adjuster at the top can be loosened with a screwdriver. WD-40 or equivalent used sparingly may help but keep the lubricant off the shoes and pads. If you get lubricant or grease on the rotor, you will need to degrease it. Check the rotor for wear; a caliper-type micrometer is useful, or your auto parts store/machine shop can check it for you. For some the spec is not less than 11.25mm, but check this spec for your model and year. If, after turning it, the rotor thickness will be less than that, you should get new rotors at common auto parts stores - generally not too expensive. That's it. The only unusual tool would be the Torx wrench. You may also needa tool to turn the puck in on the rear brakes.
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