What tools do i need to change the front brakes and right rotor?

Answer 1

First of all you will need a set of brake pads specifically designed for your vehicle. They will be sold in pairs for example front or rear sets.

Once the vehicle is raised, supported, and wheel removed you will need to remove the brake caliper. Most vehicles use bolts to secure the caliper. Fords often use a set of triangular clips to secure the caliper. The triangular clips can be driven out from the front side using a small chisel and hammer. The chisel (not screwdriver) should be placed directly on the metal portion of the triangular clip and driven out from the front facing side to the back.

Sometimes it is necessary to release the pressure on the caliper piston so that the caliper may be easily lifted from the rotor. There are several ways to accomplish this. Most mechanics will use a large flat blade screwdriver through the top of the caliper assembly as a wedge between the brake pad and rotor thus pushing the pad and piston nearer the caliper base. This may be accomplished without removing the hydraulic brake hose or loosening the bleeder nut. In some extreme cases it is necessary to open the bleeder nut slightly while pushing the piston back into the caliper. Most vehicles that have ABS brake systems will require pushing the excess fluid out though the bleeder.

If you are lucky and able to remove the caliper without opening the hydraulic system to atmosphere, you can suspend the caliper assembly using a wire coat hanger. You MUST support the caliper and brake hose once it is removed from the caliper mounting bracket.

In most cases you will need a 6" "C" clamp to fully depress the caliper piston back into the caliper once the assembly is removed from the mounting location.

Rotors come in different configurations. Some front rotors have the hub made right into the rotor while other rotors fit over the hub. If you need to replace the rotor and it is the type with the hub made right into the rotor, you should consider replacing the wheel bearings and dust seal along with the rotor. I do not reuse wheel bearings because the old bearing may not seat properly into the new rotor hub bearing race. Believe me, you will find out quickly, within 100 miles if your salvaged bearing is not seated properly, as you will be doing the job all over again to replace the bearing, hub bearing race, and dust shield.

Rotors that slip over the hub may get frozen into place even when not exposed to road salts. Condensation, heat, natural road conditions are enough to cause the rotor to mechanically fuse itself to the hub assembly. In this case there are two methods to remove a frozen in place rotor. One method is to use the caliper mounting bracket and two 3" long 1/2" bolts, washers, and nuts to press the rotor off the hub. The other method is to put the lug nuts back on the studs and use a large hammer to strike the rotor between the studs, turn, strike, turn strike. The lug nuts are to protect the studs in case you miss on a strike. NEVER use heat to remove a frozen rotor. Never strike the rotor along the edge, always between the suds only.

Always follow safety precautions. Use jack stands, hand brake, wheel chocks, safety glasses, gloves. Use the proper tools for the job, never use a screwdriver as a chisel or drift.

This may sound like a lot of work to a beginner, but it really is not hard work at all unless you are trying to do a brake job in the direct sun when it is 100 F degrees. So be mindful of your surroundings, no sand storms, or otherwise inclement weather conditions.

I recently did a complete brake job on a 1998 Ford Explorer. All four wheels, new rotors and pads , new front and rear calipers, new front wheel bearings and bled the system, all in my driveway. The whole job took three hours including beer breaks.

That same job at a brake shop would have cost over $1,000. I may have $300 invested in parts, including grease and brake fluid.

If you have more questions or need more instruction, observe some video on YouTube before you start.