In this type of situation, where there is more than one lighting circuit, a lighting contactor would be used. These types of contactors can be obtained in four and five pole configurations. Make sure that the contactor is rated for lighting loads and not motor loads. A normal switch, single pole single throw, would be used to switch the contactors on and off. A single switch could then be used to control as many contactors as you need to operate the lighting circuits.
If there is just one lighting circuit, the total circuit amperage must be known, then the switch would be sized to the amperage of the circuit.
If a single pole switch is wired to be a master switch, the switch would have to be in the on position for any other control devices to operate. Turning the master switch off would eliminate power to all devices (and/or loads) which it was serving. For example, some homes have a switch to control their outside light. If the outside light has a photo eye (the light will only come on at night), the switch is the master switch. Another example would be the breakers in an electrical panel. Each breaker would be the "master switch" for the circuit it protects. The main breaker in the panel would be the "master switch" for the entire home.
No. A double pole switch would be a switch that switches 2 different loads simultaneously. 3-way switches (and 4-way switches if more than 2 are used) are what are used for controlling a light from multiple locations. While a typical single pole switch simply opens or closes a single contact, a 3-way switch provides a path from a contact point to, let's say, point A or point B. Points A and B from the first 3-way switch are connected to points A and B of the second 3-way switch and then the common contact point of the second switch is connected to your light. When more than 2 switches are desired, you can use any number of 4-way switches between the 3-way switches, but the 3-way switches MUST be on the ends of the circuit.
Not usually, The light would have had to been wired with a three wire from the switch to the fan. One circuit to control the fan and the other switch to control the light. If this is your situation then all you will have to do is change the light switch to a timer and that will do what you want.
The switches would have to be of a type that could switch out a bulb and at the same time switch in its place a resistor of equivalent value.
An air pressure switch would control the air pressure in any machinery that relies on air pressure for functioning. These switches can be found in any industrial facility.
A switch is installed in a circuit to stop the current flow. Without the switch there is no way to disconnect the operation of the circuit's load. In modern households the switch is a convenient way to control room lighting from a convenient location. Without switches the circuit power would have to be controlled from the service distribution panel's breakers. In this scenario the breaker would be in the same class as a switch.
On your dash just to the right of your headlight switch is a dimmer wheel switch that controls the lighting brightness of your guage lighting . Check to see if it has been rotated all the way down
If the porch light switch is the only outside item controlled y the switch bank inside the house, the porch light switch should be located the furthest from the door frame adjacent to which the switch bank is sited. The switch closest to the door should control the lighting in the room immediately adjacent to the door. In this manner, when entering the room from the outside in the dark, you merely toggle the nearest switch to the door frame to light the room - you don't have to reach around or over other switches. Switches controlling other internal lights should be sited in between. So, for a 2-gang arrangement, the switch located closest to the door frame controls the interior light and the other switch controls the porch light. For a three-gang arrangement, the middle switch would control another interior light. The only complication is that is if there are switches in the switch bank that control other exterior circuits, the porch light would be inboard of these and would not be the last outboard switch in the array. So, for a three-gang array in which two exterior lights are switched, the porch light switch would be the middle switch and the other exterior lights (sports, floods, landscape lighting, etc.) would be controlled by switches placed further from the door frame.
You would have to use a dimmer switch I would think.
If you did acting for your drama GCSE mock in year 10 but wanted to switch to lighting design for your actual GCSE in year 11, you could do that but you would need to remember that you will not have taken a practice test for lighting design. Your score on the GCSE for year 11 will be the final score.
If a single pole switch is wired to be a master switch, the switch would have to be in the on position for any other control devices to operate. Turning the master switch off would eliminate power to all devices (and/or loads) which it was serving. For example, some homes have a switch to control their outside light. If the outside light has a photo eye (the light will only come on at night), the switch is the master switch. Another example would be the breakers in an electrical panel. Each breaker would be the "master switch" for the circuit it protects. The main breaker in the panel would be the "master switch" for the entire home.
You can switch forms of birth control to what is most comfortable for you. If you would like to switch birth control consult your physician so that she/he can choose a birth control pill that is right for you.
The panel dimmer control is to the right of the headlamp control. If you roll the panel dimmer control up past detente (the catch), it is in the full up position and all of the interior lights will remain on. If you roll the panel dimmer control down past detente, the interior lights will turn off (unless they are individually turned on in which case the panel dimmer switch is overridden). I would also suggest the question could be related to interior lights that keep coming on due to a stuck door ajar switch. See "Related Questions" below for more about that.
Could be low on freon,
An incorrect action when performing entry control point duties would be to allow unauthorized individuals to enter or pass through the control point without proper identification or verification. This compromises the security and effectiveness of the control point.
Probably not, since a volume control switch is designed for extremely low current measured in fractions of a watt, while a dimmer switch is typically capable of handling several hundred watts.
Before replacing the flasher you should check the fuses inside the car and in the engine compartment including fuseable links, then check for voltage in the flasher connector with the switch on, it may be that your switch is the problem. Newer cars use lighting control modules which would be the next place to check.