I have a '91 Lumina with a 3.1 Tuned port. I know that the 3.1 uses push rods & therefore it most likely has hydraulic lifters. If this is so, it's possible that one or more of your hydraulic lifters is collapsed/leaky. The lifter is just a little rubber cylider filled w/oil, designed to soften the blow of the cam ramming the push rod up onto the rocker arm & also to delay the retraction of the push rod so that kinetic force & momentum won't cause the push rod & cam & rocker arm to lose contact with one another, ( & therefore knock). If the hydraulic lifter is collapsed/leaky, it will create a gap in the cam/push rod/lifter/rocker arm contact chain until the oil pressure comes up to it's regular pressure shortly after startup, at which time the lifter will fill with oil & expand to fill the gap. But on startup & just as you turn off the engine, the oil pressure is low & therefore the bad lifter causes a knock when it's empty. Watch your oil pressure gauge & see if the times of low pressure does indeed correspond to the time when it knocks. This is just a therory of mine mind you, I could very well be wrong. But I thought I'd throw this idea out there & see what you think! Good luck! Don
No it will not. Has nothing to do with engine knocking. You need to define the word KNOCK. Need to ask your question again. THANK YOU.
ok where is the knocking coming from, brakes, engine ? only happens during acceleration ? if it is truly an engine knock, check oil immediately, but maybe to late, again need more info.
And again pertinent information is left out. But I will answer anyway. Lumina--195/75-14 Lumina Eurosport--205/70-15 or 215/60-16 Lumina Z34--215/60-16
check the soleinoid
most Kawasaki engines need to be warm. instead of trying to turn on the engine again and again and again, when turning on the engine hold it on III for a little while, then it will get used to the cold and u can turn it on normally. the only bad thing about that is that when its warm u have to do that again.
The rod knocking is caused by loss of oil pressure. Did the oil light not come on? That light is red, red means stop. Do not start this engine again until the problem is corrected. You are probably looking at way more than just installing a new oil pump if the engine was run for very long without oil pressure. A complete overhaul may be in order.
Take it to auto zone and have the codes read for free.
While the engine is turned off the oil will drain from the top of the engine. The Lumina has hydraulic lifters and uses oil to move them. The lifters will "tap" until the oil builds up enough to hold them up. Make sure that the engine has enough oil, that the oil pressure is ok, and that the oil does not need changing. If these are ok then an additive may be added to aid in quieting noisy lifters.
The engine coolant on a 1991 Honda Civic is replaced by turning the drain petcock and releasing the coolant. The filler cap is then removed and coolant added until the system is full again.
For sure! Cold makes the oil get thick, and thick oil keeps the engine from turning over fast enough to start. Also, the amount of electricity available from the car's battery is much less in cold weather, again keeping the engine from turning over fast enough to start.
have you tried turning it off and on again
try turning it off and then on again.
You wont be able to catch it ever again. I would suggest turning of your game then turning it back one. Then try to catch it again.
try turning it off then turning it back on again ROFLCOPTER 2K6+10-3
you can't reset it, fill your coolant up full, both rad and overflow. the light will go out. if it is still on when everything is full, then your coolant sensor is broken or unplugged. if you light goes off then comes on again and your coolant is low, then you have a leak. if you have a 3400 engine in your lumina common leaks are intake gaskets, waterpumps, and head gaskets.
SOUNDS LIKE THE ENGINE IS OVERHEATING, HOW OLD IS IT ??? ARE ANY OF THE DASH WARNING LIGHTS ON??? COULD ALSO BE THAT YOUR PLUGS NEED BADLY TO BE CHANGED , YOUR GETTING SPARK NOCK, DOES IT DO IT WORSE WHEN YOUR GOING UP HILL AND TRYING TO ACCILERATE??? WHAT YEAR AND WHAT MAKE??? ASK THE QUESTION AGAIN WITH MORE INFORMATION.
"knocking" is very broad so just a wild guess here. I think the reason the knocking stops when you disconnect the number 6 injector is; you are creating a "floating piston". In other words, this piston and cylinder are no longer producing power, they are no longer under a load, and they are no longer compressing the fuel that you have prevented from being injected into the cylinder. So, if you have something wrong with that cylinder, such as a bad piston, piston pin, connecting rod, rod bearing, etc., you have relieved the pressure which will quiet the knock. Again, just a wild guess!
Turning it on again helps. ;-D
have you tried turning it off and on again?
try turning it off then on again
Have you tried turning it off and on again.
Greg solve the problem by knocking on the Rowley door and they be back to friends again.
turning the steering wheel uses pressure from the power steering pump and puts a load on the engine causing it to slow the rpm. Should rise again when you stop turning the wheel. completely normal.
If it's a 3.1 Liter engine ...... check the wire behind the engine for the crank positioning senser ... it might be chaffed or the plastic worn off and touching the frame of the car.
keep turning and if it wont come off turn the opposite way then try again