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2009-06-21 20:21:08
2009-06-21 20:21:08

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Depends. A repipe simply means that your current pipe supply lines have a problem that needs to be addressed. Do copper pipes need to be replaced, sometimes, especially if they are installed incorrectly, or if you have a highly corrosive water quality in your area. A good water system would include water treatment, and pressure regulators with the correct type of piping to ensure that the water pipe last for the longest possible period. I have seen copper repipes last 20 plus years with no problems and some only 1 year because of poor installation practices.


There are too many variables for an accurate answer to this question. A typical copper repipe will run between $300-$600 for each water line being replaced in the Los Angeles area.... so a kitchen sink has a hot and cold water line and would typically cost between $600-$1200 to replace with copper.ANS 2 - Re-piping with PEX is cheaper, faster and more efficient in the long run. - The only reason copper pipe is still around is that it's labor intensive for old fashioned plumbers.


DON'T re-pipe a home using PVC. -Use PEX instead, cheaper, better quality and easier to install.


There are several possibilities. The 2 most common would be the water heater needs replacing, or you need a repipe.


All you have to do is hire a licensed master plumber and have her install a pressure /temperature balanced shower body made by DeltaOrRepipe the potable water system and increase the C/W riser and branch lines to have less pressure drop and loss of volume


Mandatory Essentials 1-License #, and in good standing? 2-Liability insurance. Get amount insured, and copy of policy. 3-Workers comp. Get policy copy 4-Written Guarantee 5-Written upfront price 6-City inspection/permit If you dont get these essentials upfront, you are only taking a gamble on what kind of experience you may have. Additional items i provide to my clients are listed below. - employee background checks/substance and criminal -uniforms -time schedule -warranties,for repipe, and for job quality. Questions to ask? -Time frame? -How long without water? - How many employees on site? -How many repipes have you done? -Previous client testimonials? -Type of pipe?/Brand?/Warranty info? -All patching/repairs included? -What size of pipe main? -Should i upgrade/move/change any of my plumbing related to water? -Water quality test/pressure? These are all off the top of my head. There are probably several more. Ask questions!, Get warranty info, and pricing in writing! Get permits/inspection!


If you have old pipe , such as galvanized, you need to repipe with copper or PEX. If you already have newer pipe you need to install a whole house water filtration system. I recommend a whole house filtration system on every house. Water municipalities do a great job of killing diseases and bacteria by injecting the water with chlorine, but they do not much else in the way of actually filtering the water to remove chemicals, turbidity, VOCs, or the chlorine that they put in the water. Get a water report from your water district. They are required to supply them and most can be found online. Frankly, i think the government standards set back in the 70's are way too low for water quality and i will never drink water from a tap unless it is filtered.


Repiping the supply lines involves the replacement of the old existing water lines with new pipes. The need to repipe occurs when old lines become clogged or begin to show signs they are about to leak. Those signs include rust on the outside of the pipes, sweating and water calcification (a white or greenish residue) plus low water flow and rusty or discolored water. Repiping today is done primarily with PEX (Poly Ethylene with X-Linked molecules). Some people still use copper though the expense for materials and labor make PEX a much more popular choice. Though other materials like galvanized pipe and CPVC are legal to use they should be avoided due to their inherent problems; namely rust in galvanized and high failure rates in CPVC. Old supply lines are not necessarily followed during a repipe. Often, lines are covered by concrete or run in such a way to make it impractical. An experienced repiper is more than just a plumber. The repiper will run lines where it makes the most sense and does the least amount of damage. There is almost never a reason to cut concrete when replacing supply lines. A repipe should not only include the 'horizontal' lines under the floor, it should include all lines to the existing fixtures. This includes the 'vertical' lines in the walls as well as the supply lines from the angle stop shut offs right up to the existing fixtures. Water can do an amazing amount of damage in a very short time and leaks in the walls or under sinks are usually the most dangerous. A proper repipe starts at the connection in the basement or crawl space. Here, a connection is made to the main line coming into the house from the meter. It is often important to do the main line at the same time as the rest of the house. This can be accomplished in most cases with a directional bore that leaves your landscaping and concrete neat, clean and undisturbed. Once the connection is made, a shut-off is installed and new trunk lines are run throughout the house. From there the vertical pipes can be run up through the same holes and back into the walls or you may chose a deck mount which is drilled from below into a cabinet or behind a washing machine. In the case of the deck mount, the pipes are mounted outside the wall but hidden beneath the cabinet or behind the washer. This saves having to patch the walls again after the job is done.


Main drain line is stopped up. Main Line under house is clogged. Hydro Jet cleaning will last for several years. Roto Router won't. If you have 2"drain, I was told changing to 3' plastic would solve the problem. Have the Main line Roto Rootered as for 2" pipe I should hope that the pipe is at least 3" Diameter (3" minimum size pipe for toilet by code)If the main sewer line is less than 3" skip the snake just repipe. Hydo-Jetting has its uses but this is probably not one of them.


I recently did mine (totally ) for a parts expense of just under $200. this inlcudes 40 ft 3/4 and 20 ft 1/2 PEX, 7 undersink shutoff valves, a laundry fitting box, all necessary PEX fittings, a 3/4 ball valve, and a PRV. - It took me about 12 hours for actual removal and replacement of piping. -NOT including Faucets, sinks, tub and sinks. Also Not including ripping up old floor and sub floor (VERY difficult as it was glued AND stapled with 2" staples) Also not including replacing with new plywood sub floor.


Usually it only does this if you were recently running hot water in a nearby faucet. I've seen this happen when the water heater is in the basement below the fixture in question and no water has been drawn at any fixture for a little while. After about an hour of no use, go down to the heater and feel the cold water line where it enters the heater. Is it warm or hot? How far up the cold water line is it warm? To a tee? Bingo. You need a "heat trap" to keep the heat from rising up the cold line. Repipe the cold line with a flex connector that turns 180 degrees back toward the heater then 90 degrees to horizontal (looks like a question mark).


The flange is actually a ring that the lead comes up through the middle of. The ring is secured to the floor and the lead is beat down against the flange. T would actually consider doing away with this lead bend as they are currently 50 years old or older. That is to say they stopped using them about 50 years ago and they are currently failing in a lot of homes. I w3ould cut the lead out leaving the brass stub in the cast iron where the lead attached, and repipe with PVC to that brass stub and attatch it with a fernco coupling. Three inch PVC will slide right inside that brass stub to make a real nice connection,Answerif you have the pipe flush with the finish floor you can get a plastic flange with a rubber ty seal gasket around it. this will fit inside the 4" pipe. or if the lead is exposed you can snap it at the cast iron and transition to plastic.


Is it a central water heater or a local point of use water heater?With the centralized system:Hot water pipes are more susceptible to corrosion then cold water pipes, the hot water accelerates the build up of rust. If you have galvanized piping, that can be a major source of slow water.The hot water heater may also have problems which reduce the rate that water can get into the tank and from there on into the piping system. You might insure that the valves on the hot water heater and along the flow path are all fully opened.With a point of use system, it may be that there is a control valve that won't allow the water to flow unless it is a certain temperature. If it is taking longer to heat the water, it could slow down the flow considerably.When the hot side pressure is bad in all of the house it is going to be a problem with the hot water heater outlet usually. If it is just bad at one location especially when it is the shower and your shower is a single handle unit, it is the cartridge in the valve body. It is a very common problem with Moen valves as well. Simply replace cartridge by removing trim then cartridge and install new one. They should carry your part at home depot. You will be back in business.If it is all over the house try replacing the hot side nipple and supply line coming out of heater,that will usually take care of it. If not it could be build up in piping and you might need a repipe.http://aw-sons.com/slow-hot-water-flow-in-shower/



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