During final assembly.
Some of those setups have a crush sleeve that must be replaced along with that seal. It also requires specific torque specs To replace seal, remove the drive shaft, remove the pinion nut and crush sleeve if required, remove seal, install new seal and crush sleeve install pinion nut and torque to specs
Pinion is necessary to get to and replace the pinion crush sleeve that controls the pinion pre-load. It is also stated that a complete teardown of the differential is necessary as well.
between the inner and outer pinion bearings.
It sounds like the pinion nut is not tight enough and the pinion is now moving in and out. This will do bad damage to ring and pinion. You will need to replace crush sleeve in rear end now.
The shim between the inner bearing and the pinion is critical and if it's lost you need special tools to set the pinion depth. replace the bearings and seal with an new crush sleeve thighten the pinion nut until the sleeve crushes and you can't move the pinion up and down. Then very slowly tighten the pinion nut checking the rotational torque. You will need an inch pound torque wrench, when the preload is correct it should take between 20-25 inch pounds of torque to rotate the pinion. If you get it too tight you need to replace the crush sleeve and start over. Proper bearing preload and gear mesh are critical.
I don't believe there is a specific torque specification! Once you install the crush sleeve and tighten the nut to the desired preload on your pinion bearings, your torque will be what it will be.
Depending on the vehicle, a diff bearing kit is a kit you can purchase that contains all the parts to freshen up a differential. This usually includes the pinion bearings and races, pinion bearing shims, pinion seal, pinion crush sleeve, pinion lock nut, carrier bearings and races, carrier bearing shims and a new gasket.
Yes... The part number is a 1234726 -Powertrain Industries Inc.
I use a 24" pipe wrench to hold the yoke, and a big breaker bar with a cheater bar to tighten the nut.
The only torque you should be concerned with is the torque it takes to rotate the pinion gear alone, 8-14 inch pounds for old bearings, 16-29 in/lbs. for new bearings. The torque it takes to crush the crush collar (tightening the pinion nut) will be above 140 foot lbs. and this will set your tension on the pinion bearings. If you put a new crush collar in you are going to have to remove axles and carrier to get the proper pre-load on the pinion bearings.
There are a couple different methods to correctly torque the nut on the pinion. One way that I have used in the past with excellent results,is to tighten the pinion nut real good and snug just as you feel the crush sleeve begin its resistance,and then you actually place an "inch pound" torque wrench(Dial or Bar style tends to be a little quicker and more exacting than a click style) with correct socket on pinion nut and rotate the pinion by way of the smaller torque wrench (ring gear and carrier removed).If the inch-pound torque wrench doesn't click before the pinion rotates(inch-pound wrench set approx @12-15),then snug the pinoin nut up with your 1/2 drive impact more.Tighten nut in SMALL increments.Dont overshoot it,other wise you run the risk of wasting the one time use crush sleeve and burning up the pinion bearings.If say the wrench clicks @10,11,12ish before the pinion rotates,but if set @ 15 or so,and the pinion rotates before the torque wrench clicks, you are in the right area.What you are doing is measuring the amount of "rotational drag" on the pinion with the inlb torque wrench.Another way is if the crush sleeve is replaced with a solid spacer,the nut can be torqued down with a regular pop wrench to about 60-75 ft/lbs.
The nut is generally torqued to 260/300 ft lbs, or 25 inch/lbs for new bearings and crush sleeve installed, or around 12/15 inch/lbs for old stuff.