mmmm!
Well, the turbo charged car has a turbo hooked up to the engine. What a turbo basically does is to force feed the engine with more air + fuel, making it possible to get more power out of a smaller engine.
Turbo charged engines must be idled down to allow the turbo to spool down and even out the temperature in the turbo this is done either by using oil cooling or the engine coolant or both in combination.The engine needs to be running to circulate the oil and coolant if you shut the engine down without idling the engine down it can burn the oil or coolant and in many cases both which will cause carbon blockages in the oil feed and coolant feed and hamper lubrication leading to catastrophic turbo failure (fires and explosions)
Volvo recommends premium, but it can run on regular just fine without affecting the life of the engine. In turbo models, the ECU dials back the turbo if you feed it regular, so performance will decrease, but the engine will run just fine.
There are pipes that feed from radiator to radiator. Or there can be multiple feed pipes and return pipes, it varies based on installation.
Yes the engine will fit as well as the oringinal engine since they are block wise the same engine. Wireing how ever is a bit different as well as a few other items are located in different places. Try checking out this link for some very helpfull hints. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=52466 Good luck with the upgrade. You are going to have 2 holes in the turbo block that the non-turbo didn't have. The oil feed line hole for the turbo and the oil return pipe hole for the turbo! The blocks are DIFFERENT
well, IMO a supercharger would be better because it gives you the ability to run your engine safely under boost unlike a turbo that really doesnt have a limit, superchargers also feed of your engine and always have boost applied
It's not hard if u got the money. You'll need the turbo, intercooler, exhaust down pipe and turbo exhaust manifold, upgraded pistons and seals, reinforced bores, upgraded valves. Upgraded fuel and water pumps to feed the extra demand. It would be more cost effective to just buy a 2.0 turbo engine and swap it out.
307 2.0ltr Hdi 110. Behind the engine above the rear gearbox mount and osf driveshaft intermediate bearing block. It is possible to remove from below but is not easy. Owing to 1. Off side drive shaft removal 2. Cat and DPF removal 3. Battery removal, to gain access to gearbox mount to lower engine to remove steady and brackets. 4. Remove top and bottom turbo stays 5. Remove oil feed (be careful not to lose the small filter in the pipe) and return pipes. 6. Remove three 11mm turbo nuts 7. Pull bottom of engine forward this give just enough room to remove turbo. Owing to the careful selection of bolt that are too long, battery tray secured by all bolts from engine compartment except one from under n/s inner wing. It is a vert time consuming job. Took two days. I hope this helps
the compression isn't high enuf the tsi's have low compression pistons and are relying on the forced air from the turbo to feed it
Probably due to an airlock in the cold water system (feed pipe).
Looking into the same thing myself at the moment and by most mechanics I've been told that the bearing in the turbo has a top feed for oil and a bottom oil drain, this can get blocked, also there is a filter before the oil gets back to the engine which can get blocked, so check the drain pipe and filter, filter may need replaced, at the minute your turbo could be burning up the oil that should be going back into your engine
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR IT WILL SEIZE. i have the exact same engine and exactly the same problem. there are a number of things which could cause this. these engines are well know for low oil pressure issues. -from the back/bottom of the block there is a small rubber tube connecting the oil feed pipe up to the turbo, firstly check the clips are tight and that the pipe is not perished in any way, also -check the oil feed pipe for any leaks all the way up to the turbo. it could actually be the turbo itself, check intercooler pipes for signs of significant build up of oil. -if you have had the fuel pump changed it could possibly be the oil gasket for the fuel pump. -the oil cooler where the oil filter is fitted can perish on these blocks, you may want to consider changing this for new which will also need a new gasket. -make sure the car is not overfilled with oil. -a new oil switch will not make this problem go away. -if the engine is worn i.e. big ends starting to fail this will also cause the oil pump to struggle -the final thing to do after all else fails is to split the block and remove the oil pump which is internal to the engine and i believe is chain driven. give it a thorough inspection and clean.