According to the ( 1996 ) Mercury Tracer Owner Guide :
( the brake fluid reservoir is also the hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir )
Open the hood, and take a look at your firewall. If it has a clutch master cylinder its a hydrolic. If you only see your brake booster and thats it, chances are its a cable clutch. But as a basic rule, if you have a master and slave cylinder it is hydrolic.
On the firewall near the brake master cylinder.
Master cylinder - located at drivers side firewall
typically above the brake pedal a large bar that goes to the master cylinder pushes a button. if not there then somewhere on the master cylinder itself. -mechanic for 7+ years
The fuel filter is located under the hood on the drivers side beneath the master cylinder
Sounds like you need to rebleed, and set your master cylinder for your clutch, Assuming you have a hydrolic clutch
If you have no hydrolic pressure in your breaks, or in other words your breaks dont work very well.
master cylinder on the gearbox vr6
On the firewall next to the brake master cylinder.
The EVAP canister is located near the brake master cylinder. It is about 5 inches in diameter and has three hoses attached to it.
A hydrolic clutch has a master cylinder on the driver side mounted on the fire wall that is compressed and released by the cluch petal. The hydrolic fluid moves from the master cylinder through a 18 inch long rubber hose to a slave cylinder that is mounted on the engine near the transmission. There the hydrolic fluid presses a shaft out from the slave cylinder that moves a lever that engages and disengages the clutch itself. The cluch is sprung, and presses back against the slave cylinder shaft. An older model RX7 often fails to hold the hydrolic fluid in the master or slave cylinder because the seals fail due to old age and pitting of the walls of the cylinder. Replacing both cylinders and the hose is a normal maintenance replacement, and costs around US$100. If you can bleed brakes you can replace hydrolic clutch cylinders. The bolts for the master cylinder are hard to reach, and are WAY back under the dash. But patience, long fingers, and a good tool set usually can get them off. I have had to cut the old master cylinder off once when the bolts had rusted. It is _not_ recommended to rebuild either cylinder, and if one is old, usually the other is too. There is no point getting stuck somewhere with a faulty cylinder just to save a small amount of money. It is very unlikely that the clutch itself is somehow "frozen". If it is, you will need to pull the engine and remedy the problem, but again, it is very unlikely. If you have a bad apex seal, there is not much point in fixing the clutch. Rebuild or replace the engine first, then deal with the clutch.
Mounted to the firewall on the driver's side.