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windows xp
It is generally (pretty much always) a no no to run a furnace condensate line to the outdoors, there is no avoiding this freezing up and stopping your furnace short of wrapping it with electric heat tape, which would be a bandaid at best and no more cheaper than correcting it. If the furnace is running condensate outside, I have to assume there is no drain near by. The best solution is to install a condensate pump, which the furnace and AC can drain into, and it then pumps to a different location indoors, like a laundry stack, or if you must, tap into a drain pipe with the proper fittings. If this is above your skill level, it would not be a bank buster to call a good contractor and have done. The pumps are about $60 in my area, and you can figure 1/2 hr to 3/4 hour to install by a contractor.
EM (or emergency heat) can be used if you have a problem with your other heat source such as a heat pump. In most cases, you will not need this but what it does is bi-passes the primary heat source and allows your secondary heat source (normally your furnace) to become the primary.
I had the same problem after I replaced my outside motor. Water was literally spurting from inside the outgoing drain. I disconnected the inside drain line going out and a big wad of dirt, dust and whatever came out like a big snake. I then cleaned the rest of it with bleach and it drains like it is supposed to now.
Yes, the thermostat in your home causes the gas valve to come on inside the furnace, although in some of the newer, high efficiency furnaces the process is a little more complicated. Furnaces usually detect the temprature inside the plenum and turn on the blower to move warm air into the home. Once the home is up to temperature, the gas is shut off and the blower will run until the plenum is cooled. The gas should not go off and on until it reaches the desired temperature. The gas should come on and the burners should stay lit until the desired temperature is reached. If this is not the case and the burners come on and off, you have a problem. If the burners come on and stay on until the temp set on your thermostat is reached then all is well. If you notice your burners are not lit and the temp is not reached and the blower is on, then you have a problem that needs a service tech. Your filter could be clogged or your flue pipe could be blocked or there may be a problem with your high limit.
What is the problem of operating a on-load furnace transformer with center tap
Can you be a little more specific about the problem?
no
form_title= Furnace Repair form_header= Keep the temperature comfortable when you repair your furnace. How old is your furnace?*= _ [50] Has the furnace ever been repaired?*= () Yes () No Please describe the problem in detail.*= _ [50]
It is because it is not eco friendly
Not if it was disconnected properly
That iron is too brittle.
No, it will just keep your furnace from turning on. At least that's the problem I'm having right now with the bad thermopile in my floor furnace.
some problem with your furnace that caused a safety switch to trip on the inside of your machine. Usually on units it will have leds indicating what safety the machine tripped on.
Mine is just like a slightly smaller regular home furnace. It keeps the mobile nice and warm,and I have no problem with it's efficiency.
If the thermostat is wired correctly, it looks like that was not the problem. Not enough info to go much further than that other than to check the indoor fan relay. On an older model furnace look at the setting of the pointers on the fan/hi temp limit switch, if yours is an older unit with one of these I am betting that is your problem.
The problem is that there is no operating system ... or at least not one that it can find. There are lots of things that could potentially cause this.