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Because you have it set to the ON position. Set it to the Auto On position.

same problem as the Taurus and Sable Dome light problem. I just bought a 1998 Ford Taurus SE and right away I noticed the Dome light wasn't even coming on. The 2 map lights did work. I asked the previous owner about it, but he had no idea. Today I bought a new bulb and noticed that the light stays on forever, and the door ajar icon stays lit. I read through some of the responsed posted for the problem, so I tried the WD-40 idea and it fixed it in 30 seconds. What you need to do is spray light lubricant (WD-40) on the drivers door latch. This is right at the end of the door (where is swings away from the car). You'll see the latch looks like plastic. Give it a few sprays, then open and close the door several times. If it works, the light should go off in about 30 seconds, and the door ajar light will go out. What must be happening is that the door closes, but something is sticking, not allowing the switch in the door to close. Spraying on the lubricant loosens this up, and in my case fixed it right away. . Regards, Doug

2nd ;WD40 *may* free up a sticking Door LATCH switch;

that is not always the case...

Yes, the DOME door ajar sensor is NOT in the door JAM,

the sensor is right on top of the LATCH mechanism

where you cannot get to it easily;

solution #1, replace entire door latch $109 cdn (about $100 US)

+ labor and blah blah

solution #2, (interim) disconnect BOTH dark/red trace and dark/blk

wires to effected door latch switch

(very hard place to reach up after taking off that Explorer side

door panel/interior handle cover/2screws)

once door panel is removed, and you can feel two wire/connectors

to the latch switch (greasy)

remove these two wires top/bottom

then SHORT the two Dark/red trace and Dark/Black solid,

insert ignition key, turn to ON[not start], wait for ECM beep sequence

to complete, and open/close ANOTHER door

so ECM senses a DOME state change. DONE!

THEN open the (temp. shorted) pair,

and tape them up (if its passenger side, you could live without Dome switching).

The issue with WD40;

that switch is right where WATER and SALT and dirt

get into it so its most likely destroyed/open (OPEN causes the problem

NOT closed). Grounding the Dark/BLK wire wont help.

Just one closed circuit operation clears the ECM state

and then DOOR AJAR and DOME operation is restored for OTHER doors.

ALL DOORS including rear Liftgate and Rear Window have sensors.

Turn Ignition to ON, do not start. Chime sounds on EACH door OPEN

including rear PANE and LIFTGATE. The one that wont CHIME is the

door/glass/gate that has bad switch.

(my experience= 1999 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr, passenger side sensor,

rusted so so bad that spade contact broke off in my hand)

Other cars=Door Jam sensor where CLOSED circuit occurs to chassis

ground to complete DOME and turn it on with all switches in parallel;

ON EXPLORER ITS OPPPOSITE ;Closed circuit = Door Closed and LATCHED

I am sick of dealers that put a dark sticker over the DOOR AJAR Lamp on the

DASH during the time of the 2003 recall for this nonsense. I am also tired of

hearing the same things from other owners; this is the fourth fix I

personally helped with and its time to speak up and say its simple

and yet kinda Ford's own over-design that caused all of this.

(also, watch your BRAKE systems, keep the 4wheel disk systems CLEAN

and lub'd regularly otherwise $$$$ in stuck Calipers; this extends to

all Fords, the seals on these systems are somewhat ineffective)

OTHERWISE, MUCH BETTER SUV THAN ANYTHING ELSE, VERY STRONG

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Q: Why does the dome light in a 1999 Ford Explorer XLT stay on after all doors are closed?
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