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This problem plagued me for 4 weeks until I finally found a knowledgeble person to help me. Use this technique and you can clean a heviliy algead pool in 3 days. 1st get your water chemistry balanced with a high PH and nominal chlorine level 2nd. turn off your filter. 3rd. Add Aluminum sulfide (alum) to your pool. This is a coagulant that can be purchsed at better pool supply stores. IMPORTANT: do not run the filter! 4th. wait at least 6 hours with the filiter off. 5th. add water to pool positioning the hose end in the skimmer recess and raise the level to the top of the skimmer port. Your water should now be clear, but you have a lot of dead algae on the botoom of your pool. Don't be mislead into thinking your pool filter will clean it out -it will not. This junk must be vacuumed to waste. 6th. Plug the vacuum hose into the skimmer port (keep the filling hose tucked into the skimmer port next to the vacuum hose). 7th. set your filter to waste and begin vacuuming. Make an effort not to stir up the debris as you vacuum, this is hard but with practice you will get the hang of it. 8th. Vaccum as long as you can still see what you are doing (with severe silting it is inevitable that you will stir up dead algae and no longer see the pool bottom). Because your garden hose is tucked next to the vacuum port you should be able to vacuum until the water level is no more than 18 inches below the skimmer port. 9th. stop vacuuming and turn the filter off. It is o.k. if your water looks green again because of the stirred up algae. Leave the filter off!!! also leave the vacuum and garden hose in place and bring the water level back up. 10th. repeat the vacuum and fill process 3-4 times or as needed. you can add chlorine during this process, but do not run the filter as it will only stir up the water again. Use a brush to get isolated pockets of debris as needed. 11th. When the debris is off the pool bottom AND your water is clear you are now ready to shock and add PH increase to your pool and begin operating your filter at normal intervals. This technique requires a good deal of new water and vacuum time, but it works great. I can't stress enouph about avoiding any method that involves the filter to clean dead algae. The dead algae particles are just too small to be trapped in the filter, be it DE or sand.

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My goodness, why go to all those steps and waste all that water and man hours. Above not the best method - totally obsolete. You did not say how large the pool was or if it was a plaster pool finish. If plaster, first back wash the filter, sand or D.E.

1. Add three to four gallon of 12% liquid chlorine, 10% if you can't find the 12.

2. Extend the filter/pump run time to 24hrs. Remove the time clock trippers for this if you have one.

3. Brush the pool walls and floor at least twice per day during the process then as needed - with a nylon pool wall brush.

4. Next day check for water clarity. The water should look markedly better. Back wash filter again and if needed adjust water level. Test for chlor. level and keep at or above 5.0 or 3.0 if your test kit doesn't go that high. Also then, adjust your pH. If your water has cleared greatly then adjust your time to about 15-18 hrs. until water is crystal clear. You may have to back wash again at the end of that time or before. The chlor. will kill the algae and the filter will pick most of it up through circulation and you most likely will not have to use any toxic chemicals. With a sand filter this process may take longer because the sand in the filter cannot filter fine enough.

5. Once you have achieved your goal you may then cut back the run time to about 12 - 15 hrs. depending upon gallons of h2o involved, pump and filter sizes. The probable cause of original problem was not enough filter run time and no free chlorine levels. It just got ahead of you and it could happen to a pro because of the heat and humidity.

6. If you still have a chlorine level above 5.0 wait a day to use the pool. Oh, and you might want to check and adjust your conditioner/chlor. stabilizer upward if needed. Should be about (for me) 50 to 80 ppm.

Happy swimming.

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16y ago
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15y ago

There are many reasons your water could be cloudy, but the most common is high pH and/or dirty filter. pH should be maintained between 7.2 and 7.6 at all times.

* Check pH (make sure test strips are not past expiration date)

* Clean filter * and to add to that: if you are only running the filter for 2 to 4 hrs per day you will always have cloudy water. The water should look like it has been polished - it should sparkle. Back wash or clean the filter then extend the run time to 24/7 until the water looks like a glass full of water that you would want to drink. Readjust your chemistry both chlor and pH until they are stable and exactly where they should be. Then recheck chemistry again next day and adjust. Proper chemistry and filtration work hand in hand - you can not do only half the job and expect results. And BTW chemicals are never fine or OK or just right etc. If you have cloudy water you are not doing the right things ! One thing that you have to do while the water is in such poor shape is to stop using the pool until the filter and the chemicals can do their job even turning the heat down will help the pool recover at a faster pace.

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9y ago

It can depend on the type of pool. If it is a salt pool that's usually the salt being turned up. If it is a chlorine pool then they may have put a bit more chemicals then necessary. This should not have any negative effects on you.

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18y ago

I would check out the Ponders forum at www.pondersbible.com. For expert opinions on how to optimize water quality the folks in that forum are tops IMO. Your question says "all the chemicals are fine"..... but.... how's the temperature? Is aeration adequate? etc., etc. Very little info given in the question - regardless, monitor the Ponders forum mentioned I bet you will get the answer, (and probably much more). All the best, sondrio

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16y ago

Drain & refill it or you can try to shock it. I suggest putting leftover chlorine tablets in a bucket with holes in it in your pool for your off season to keep the water from greening or just emptying the water altogether.

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15y ago

You are not maintaining the pool properly. Not enough chlorine or filtration and the adjustment of the pH and total alkalinity are all factors in balancing the water for clarity and sanitizing the water. The water or pool surface can have spots of green and or black spots but it can not be cloudy in spots. It would be cloudy all over. You need to get the water to SPARKLE. Filtration times during the warm months should be in the neighborhood of 8 to 20 hrs. depending upon the situation and bather load. Superchlorinate with liquid (12.5%) - that could mean up to 4 or 5 gal. at one time depending upon total amount of water, how bad the algae is and whether it is a vinyl liner or plaster. You should also have a reading of 50 to 80 ppm of conditioner and pH reading of 7.6, alkalinity readings of 80 to 120 ppm. You will need a new test kit - not an old one - not accurate - to see where you are at any given moment on those levels of chemicals. You can not add too much chlorine - - - the more the better. k

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15y ago

The water must be old. It lacks the proper chemicals. It lacks filtration - - lots of it. It lacks some with the knowledge to properly maintain a pool. (Those of you who want a pool but do not want to take care of it.)

Get a test kit and get to work.

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15y ago

It sounds like you have a problem with algae Try shocking the pool and adding an algaecide. While you are getting the chemicals you need at the pool shop take in as ample of water and have it tested. The pool shop wil be able to tel you how to balance your water to avoid the problem in the future.

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12y ago

clean it

Duh, lets try to be helpfull here...

Typically Green water is an indication of algae ( aquatic plant matter), you can confirm this by rubbing your hand on the pool surface under the water. If the surface feels slimey- probably algae.

Alternatively, if you have added chlorine , bromine or anther oxidizer, then there may be dissolved metals in the water, and the oxidixer is causing the metal to reveal itself.

Head to your local Pool Store. Buy a good Test Kit ( I like the Rainbow Reagent Test Kit - A Blue Plastic Box with a Kit to Test Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity and Acid Demand. ) there are also dip strips available; but in my experience they are harder to read ( and more expensive ).

Take a moment ( or 10 minutes ) to read the instructions. (The Rainbow kit has a useful booklet ) and follow the instructions.

Good Luck !

Greg M Simmons C.P.O.

gregs.cpo@gmail.com

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Q: How do you get your green cloudy above ground pool water clear?
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