In case of a fault (short) the device could still be energized even with the fuse blown. this means, a fuse in the neutral would never blow in a fault to ground, resulting in a very dangerous situation.
all the above
US NEC: If the new range has a white wire, and the outlet has none, you must replace the circuit. You may not just connect neutral to ground at the range, because the neutral in this configuration is considered to be a current carrying conductor. As such, it must be insulated. The NEC does permit neutral and ground to be tied together at the range in a non mobile home configuration, but it does not allow the neutral conductor going back to the distribution box to be just a bare copper wire.
Black & Red are hot, and White is neutral. If it has no place to connect neutral connect neutral to ground.
If you have to connect the neutral to ground to make the circuit work then you have an open neutral in your circuit. Be careful in handling the neutral as there can be voltage potential on the neutral if a load is connected. In a properly wired home that has been inspected by the local electrical inspector the neutral should be bonded to the ground at the main service distribution point. There will be a green screw that projects through the neutral bus and is threaded into the back of the electrical panel. This should be the one and only place in the whole electrical system where this neutral to ground connection takes place. Dangerous!!!!! The ground is the safety to prevent you from getting shocked due to a malfunctioning piece of equipment. By using the ground for a neutral you will be energizing the entire ground system of you house or business. Thus anything with metal on it and a ground wire going to it will be electrified if the ground fails at the breaker box or building ground rod. Do you want to take this risk? Not I..........
Physically yes, but to no avail. The breaker will trip instantaneously as a short circuit will have been introduced into the circuit with this action. In all wiring the live must never be connected directly to earth. The only place where the neutral and earth are connected together is at the distribution panel where the utility's supply neutral joins the system earth on the distribution panel's neutral bus bar.
In a MEN (Multiple Earth Neutral) system, the neutral wire is connected to the earth wire at the switchboard. This is the neutral link. From an electrical point of view the neutral pin and the earth pin in a power socket are at the same potential but from a safety point of view they are different. A residual current device (RCD) (or earth leakage core-balance-relay(ELCBR)) sits in series with both the active and the neutral feed and a leakage from either wire to ground (via a human or water leak in a washing machine etc) will trip the circuit breaker that is in the RCD.Another AnswerFuses or circuit breakers must be inserted into the line conductor, never into the neutral conductor. However, if we need to isolate the circuit, we must place a break in both the line and the neutral conductors. We can achieve this for the line conductor by, for example, removing the fuse. To achieve the same with the neutral conductor, we can open the neutral link, which is simply a short length of conductor inserted between a pair of terminals in the neutral.
Answer for Canada, USA and countries running a 60 Hz, 120/240 volt, split supply service.If the ground wire is connected it is impossible to have a 120 volt potential to ground on it.I think that maybe you are taking the reading using a 120 volt supply from a breaker on one lead of the tester and touching the other lead to the ground wire. If this is the scenario you will get a 120 volt reading. The same reading you would get by leaving the one lead on the 120 volt supply and touching the other lead to the neutral wire.The reason is because the ground and neutral wire have the same impedance or resistance between each other and it should be equal to zero. This continuity is obtained because of the ground bonding screw in the main distribution panelboard. The neutral bus is bonded to the panelboard enclosure. The ground bus is also bonded to the enclosure giving continuity between the two conductors.Electricians use this to an advantage when looking for open neutrals in a circuit. If at a receptacle that does not work he will test for a voltage from the "hot" conductor to the ground wire and read 120 volts. Then another reading from the "hot" conductor to the neutral conductor. If there is no voltage between the "hot" conductor and neutral then, the neutral is open back to the distribution source.Knowing this, never ever use a ground conductor in place of a insulated conductor if you are ever short a wire in a two cable system. Always pull in a new three wire cable. Running current on a bare conductor can be very dangerous and could electrocute someone under certain circumstances.
all the above
Yes, it is possible to transmit electricity from one place to another place with out any conductor , just like wireless.
The real purpose of neutral is grounding. In order for electricity to flow you need a direct continuous link from the supply to a ground. Without the neutral electricity wouldn't be able to flow because it wouldn't have a ground (a place to go). The real name for neutral is the grounded conductor, and what is commonly referred to as ground is really the grounding conductor. The grounding conductor exists for the sole purpose of being a back up neutral in case something happens, this way you don't BECOME the ground if you touch it. But don't think that means you can go touching wires if you don't know what your doing cause you can still get hurt even with both grounded and grounding hooked up.
Earth is neutral, but only at the distribution panel and upstream from it. Downstream of the distribution panel, earth and neutral shall not interchange or cross connect their connections or their roles - earth is protective ground - and neutral the current carrying return conductor.
US NEC: If the new range has a white wire, and the outlet has none, you must replace the circuit. You may not just connect neutral to ground at the range, because the neutral in this configuration is considered to be a current carrying conductor. As such, it must be insulated. The NEC does permit neutral and ground to be tied together at the range in a non mobile home configuration, but it does not allow the neutral conductor going back to the distribution box to be just a bare copper wire.
Heat rises
You should not have to crimp the copper grounding electrical wire to the aluminium service neutral. There is only one place where these two wires should meet. In the service distribution panel there is a neutral block where the two wires are connected. There are individual terminal points in the block. Tighten the ground rod wire under one of these points and place the incoming service neutral under another point in the same block. In this same block there will be a machine screw that bonds the neutral block to the distribution panel's enclosure.
* * * DANGER * * * DANGER * * * DANGER * * *Do not, under any circumstances, use earth ground instead of neutral in a circuit. Besides being a violation of the US National Electrical Code, and probably the applicable electrical code for any country that has an existing neutral system in place, it constitutes a hazard because the earth ground conductor is not rated to carry operational current. It is only there to carry momentary fault current so as to trip the protective device (fuse or circuit breaker) in the distribution panel. Also, placing operational current on protective earth ground can raise the voltage on that conductor, creating the potential for an electrocution hazard.
Place
Best answer - If panel can accept, add an additional bus on the other side and bond the two together. Least desirable answer - split bolt the neutral to one of the existing. Under no circumstances should you place multiple wires under one terminal. <<>> The neutral wire for the sub panel will only be a #10 conductor. Neutral wires can be doubled up under a single screw in the neutral bus. Turn the main breaker off to do this installation. Double up two #14 neutrals to make room for the #10 neutral wire. There is no code rule as to how many wires can be installed under a terminal on the neutral bus. There is a code rule though about not doubling up circuit feeders under one breaker terminal.