According to www.wilberelectrical.com knob and tube wiring is no longer legal. You will need to replace it. Chances are, as knob and tube wiring is very, very old, something has broken or it has been disconnected as knob and tube is not very safe. I would recomment replacing it with modern wiring devices rather than trying to repair it.
Theoretically that can be done with transformers, but the power available would still be limited by the circuit breaker on the original 120 v supply.
You can get a transformer that converts the UK's 230V power to 120V, but you cannot get a transformer that will convert from 50Hz to 60Hz. Often, US equipment can work, except that they will work hotter and less efficiently on the 50Hz power. Consult your clipper and trimmer documentation - you may find that it will work just fine on 50Hz.
you don't run a new 120 line
The formula you are looking for is I = W/E. Amps = Watts/Volts.
1hp= 746Watts. So, now, we can take a simple power equation of P= IV, Solve for I, I=P/V, and plug in 746 x 3 for Power, and 120V for V.
In common house wiring, black is the power wire, white is the neutral, and green is the ground wire.
Power= V * A so 120 V * 5 A = 600 W (J/s)
If the meter has 208-240V coming to it, no the neutral doesn't go through the meter. If the meter has only 120V incoming power such as many RV parks then the neutral does go to the line side of the meter or it won't work.
no
What specifically are you wiring? A light bulb would operate dim, a motor will burn up. The current increases thereby requiring larger wire and current protection.
You can find a 120V power cable at your local hardware store. Look in the section under extension cords.
Only if the ballast is a multi tap ballast.:Even if you could install a 120V ballast, or tap it to 120V with the existing one, Current may become an issue. To run the 400W light (sodium?) Now instead of the .833 amp range it's more like 3.33 amps. Supply wiring would have to be able to handle that. Those types of lights are often on long runs to building and grounds lights, parking lots, etc. Using 480 saves a lot on wiring costs.
--- Answer --- Most likely the plug is connected wrong, instead of the connecting to the power lines it was connected in series with some lights with 3 times the wattage. When using the meter it will read the potential voltage which is the line voltage of 115 volts but when you plug in the a light, now you completed the circuit adding this light to the other light/s. The reason you get 25 volts is because you are reading the voltage drop of the light that you just pluged in. Where 25 volts? Because the other lights are 3 times higher in wattage give or take. from: bmetong
Purchase, borrow, or have someone with a volt meter or multimeter check it for you. If you don't know what a volt meter or multi meter is, have an electrician check it for you.
Higher voltage and effectively unlimited current.house wiring is 120V to 240Vneighborhood distribution power lines are 1000V to 5000Vcity and industrial distribution power lines are 20,000V to 50,000Vintercity high tension transmission power lines are 100,000V to 1,000,000V
im not sure if this will work or not but... If you use a 9v battery threw an inverter, then a step-up transformer to convert 9v DC to 120v ac i think it will light the bulb, however current decreases when you do that and i dont know how much a light bulb needs..worth a try, i might actually try it now
No. The neon sign is fed by a step-up transformer. Primary side 120V, secondary side 7500V. If you applied 240 to the primary side you would get 15000 volts on the neon tube. A flash over and then nothing. If you can find a transformer from 120V to 240V or 240V to 120V then you are good to go. Connect 240V to 240V side and you will get 120V out the other, connect the 120V side to the neon sign and you should have light. Transformer should be at least 100va. This will give you an output of .83 amps at 120V