Your security system is malfunctioning and putting your Suburban in a temporary lock down. It is shutting down your engine right after start each time. In a few hours it will reset and allow you to start your Suburban again. Needs a new distributor cap. May be a loose fuel pump electrical connection. Located on top of the fuel tank. Requires dropping the tank to access and inspect.
Could be multiple issues here, but it will end up with one result...an exposed ignition component. Could be that water is somehow leaking around the hood and dripping down onto and around the distributor. That would definitely cause an issue. Could also be down by the starter, although less likely.
Does this happen after you've driven it in the rain, or when you first start it on a rainy day? If you've been driving it around and then it won't start, more than likely the water is from the road and splashing up, which would point to the starter/solenoid. If it's happening first start on rainy day, it's probably the distributor. If it is the distributor, it may very well have a crack in the cap. They're cheap to replace and might be a good spot to start.
Adding to this on the first start of the day after it's been raining; I have had the same issue for over a year after replacing the dist cap and rotor, ignition module, coil, MAF sensor, crank postion sensor, greased every connection under the hood and still had the problem. Ended up being that I was not tightening the dist cap tight enough. When you get a new one, and I would suggest a GM one for a better fit, the screws have a coating on them to keep them from backing out. This coating will give you a false feeling that the cap is tight when, if you move it on the distributor, it will still move slightly. This slight movement is just enough for moisture to get into these highly sensitive distributors and keep them from firing properly. Tighten the screws until the cap is tight on the distributor. You will really have to crank on them to make it this tight but be careful by checking it after every turn of the screw to not crack the cap. I know this sounds too simple but I was ready to take mine to an auction to get rid of it until I did this and cured the problem. Good luck!
tropical forest soil, that is the type of soil would you expect to find in a region that is hot and rainy year-round
If the 1999 Suburban noise is a sort of loud banging noise, the problem could be that the engine have jumped time. Jumping time would cause the noise and jerking in the engine.
Let's see, you are possibly creating a spark right next to a hundreds of gallons of highly flammable liquid. Sound safe to you? Would it not be a wise decision to push the car away from the pumps before jumping it? I think it would. What do you think?
If you didn't put it back on right or maybe left something off like the rotor, sure.
Fuel filter may be clogging up enough to not provide enough gasoline to keep the engine running, but will accumulate enough gasoline in it to re-start the vehicle.
Filter installed in reverse.
I would be looking at the distributor shaft. They have been known to loose their magnetism. I've had this problem with my 1987 Suburban in the past.
Perhaps a bad ignition switch?
Yes they will, bolt right on. My1995 Suburban has 5 lug rims and I have a co-worker who has a 2008. His has 6 lug rims. His would not fit mine.
Does it have fuel/spark/compression?
I would replace the ignetion module that is in the distributor.
If you lived in a rainy climate you would have to only eat meat
your throttle body could be sticking i'd start by cleaning that
I would start with the Fuel Pump.
Most all suburban that year are 4x4
Any car can start on fire any time. If you tend to smell gas when your around your car it would be in your best interest to have it inspected by a mechanic as soon as possible.
What would make a 1899 oldsmobile cutlass ciera start and then die right away?