They are notorious for going out every few years (3-5) and it won't even click let alone turn over. My advice would be find the nearest place to purchase a Bosch Starter.
assuming the batt.is fully charged,it may be the solenoid not engaging the starter motor.you can remove the starter motor and solenoid and run jumper wires to it .if starter does not spin,it may be the solenoid not engaging the starter.keep hands and clothing away from starter when doing this test!also,you did not mention if the solenoid wire was fastened to starter when you replaced it.usually purple color on chevy.good luck
Bad ignition switch or starter solenoid
There are a bunch of "solenoids" on a typical vehicle, but, the most common usage of the term is in reference to the startersolenoid.Ford starter solenoids have been integrated into the starter unit for a good number of years, including those on the Windstar.So to replace the starter solenoid is to replace the starter.See "Related Questions" below for more about doing just that...After thinking about this a bit it has to be on the starter, which is on the lower left side of the engine. I was trying to confuse this with the starter relay which Ford has long mounted up on the fender and makes things easy to locate starting problems.The solenoid is located inside the starter.
I'd be suspicious of the starter. I don't THINK an intrepid has a separate starter solenoid, if it does, that could be it too.
If you have any mechanical experience, climb under and pull the starter out. It's very easy. however why are you doing this? Chances are you just need a new starter solenoid. Mine went out. It's located by the battery and autozone sells them for around $30.
You need a new bendix on the starter. I've put 2 different brand new starters on cause the first new one was doing it. Now the second new starter is doing the same thing, staying engaged.I don't believe that's the answer but thanks. I'm trying a new solenoid on the fender.
First check if your Battery is fully charged. If it is then when you turn the key you should hear a click sound from the solenoid. If you don't hear the click it may not be getting power. Using a test light make sure one of the big posts on the solenoid has power. If it does then it is getting battery power. If not find out why. If it is then hook your test light to the small lead going to it. turn the key and it should light up. If it does it is good if not you have deeper issues to look for. That is the key signal for the solenoid to opperate. The small lead is the one to make it "click" if is doing dso then hook your light to the second big post on the solenoid. When you tuen the key it should light up. if it does then the solenoid is working. I can go into voltage drop and that but wouldn't be much point. If it is working fine then I would sugest that the starter isn't working. If you can get at the starter then you can put your test light to the big post on it as well and try the key. if it lights up then you are getting power to the starter and either your battery is too low to start it or the starter is shot. you can try lightly tapping it (starter) with a screw driver or small hammer. this is not recommended. if you leave marks then it may not be allowed as a core for return. if you try it and it turns over after then the starter brushes are either stuck or shot. I would then recomend getting a starter put in.
I have a 1998 Mercury Mystique and just the other day, my starter started to die. I am guessing that your starter is in the same place as mine, which is why you can not find it. Open the hood, and standing on the drivers side of the car, look down on the side of the engine. (through all the hoses.) You will see the solenoid, and then under that is where the starter is. It is a tough job to get to it if you do not know what you are doing.
It would be reasonable and logical that the starter motor or starter solenoid could be the source. Although it doesn't rule out an ignition switch. Two things in my experience. If rapid clicks, starter gear probably not fully engaging with flywheel due to insufficient current. Low battery (may be charging issue if battery is good, Any independent shop will check battery/charging) OR the solenoid is shot (copper connection pads get worn out). If it is intermittent solenoid, single click but no turn over then try again and works, solenoid is bad as above. Usually this deteriorates over time especially in cold climates like New England. If you believe solenoid, pull starter out and take to auto electrical shop for a rebuild. If cold climate, the starters take a beating and they will rebuild starter & solenoid. Folowing not likely but...late models use a relay. The ignition switch controls the relay, the relay feeds the solenoid, solenoid feeds starter. I did have a 1997 Tahoe that was intermittent (turn key twice it starts). I did not believe solenoid was bad since I'm warm climate. This can be (carefully, know what your doing & verify relay part numbers) checked by substituting a relay from another "non-vital" circuit (say air conditioning). The relays MUST be the same so verify part number. My Thaoe's electrical diagram did NOT show the relay and I almost rebuilt starter. I could not believe solenoid was issue. It was bad relay, $23 at NAPA. I would be suspicious of a weak battery first because it is only during cold weather. This is when the battery is most susceptible to failure. Drop it off at your local independent shop that you use outside the night before when it is cold, and with a little luck it will happen so it can be diagnosed. This is caused by not enough power reaching the starter solenoid to make it engage the starter motor. The culprit could be: a) a weak battery (only if it turns the starter slower than normal when it does turn it)b) worn ignition switch contacts c) loose wire connection (somewhere from switch to solenoid) d) a wire that has developed high resistance or become frayed or worn out. e) worn starter solenoid f) on newer models an ignition relay I had this problem on two older model cars I owned, on both my cars the cause was the ignition to starter solenoid wire had developed high resistance. This is the reason newer models include a relay. I adapated a relay on both my cars long before this addition was included on newer models. This I�ve found is the main cause for clicking starter solenoids, and is very common on earlier models but many times missdiagnosed as starter, solenoid or ignition switch related. It could also be a bad battery connection. Check the battery cables for tightness and sometimes corrosion.
You may be able to jump the relay, also called a solenoid, with a jumper wire and make it energize, by going from the battery cable on the solenoid to the small terminal on the solenoid with S on it. If that doesnt work, you might be able to bypass the solenoid all together with a heavy duty jumper cable. Both of these could very well get you shocked or burned, so you must have an idea of what you are doing
be sure to double and triple check the wiring of the starter. If for some reason the two posts coming off the starter are grounded the flow of electricity will keep moving keeping the motor running. the positive battery cable should go stright to the starter to the positive post(usually the one on the top when you look down at it from top of motor), then the ground should actually be somewhere on the transmission(usually the post on the bottom looking down) then there is usually a third connection point(no post) that goes to the solenoid, if not go through the solenoid then to the starter with the positive wire. good luck
Really, you need a bit more info that "Change starter?". what's it doing? what's it sound like? Most likely it's just the solenoid. but check all your wires first, battery and especially the ground wire.