Why Batteries "Die"
There could be many causes, but the most common causes include:
No, take the battery out and bring it to an auto part store and they can test it.
With a volt meter or multi-meter. With the engine off the battery should read 12 volts at the battery posts. With the engine running it should read from 13.5-16 volts. Red positive probe goes to positive red post on battery, black negative probe goes to negative battery post or any metal ground on the engine.
Will it even attempt to engage the starter?. If not then the battery or charging system needs to be looked at.
old and cold = bad battery
You must have a digital volt meter. With the ignition switch turned off, set the digital voltmeter to 20 volts DC. Put red probe on positive battery post and black probe on negative post. A 100% fully charged battery will read 12.6 volts. 75% charged will read 12.4 volts. 50% charged will read 12.2 volts. 25% charged will read 12.0 volts.
Chances are you drained your battery when your alternator failed to maintain your cars regular running functions. You should take the battery to your local auto parts store, they should be able to test it for free.
Take a DC volt meter and check the voltage at the battery. Red probe on positive + terminal and Black probe on negative - terminal. If it reads 12.6 volts it is fully charged. 12.4 and it is 75%, 12.2 and it is 50%, 12.0 and it is 25% charged. Less than 12 volts and it is considered a dead battery.
Simple just disconnect the negative wire while your car is runing if car dies then alternator is bad and not doing any good to battery so alternator needs to be replaced. Answer 1If you have a major chain auto parts store nearby, it would be easier to go there as most of them have the proper test equipment and will simultaneously test the alternator, battery and related circuits for free. If you want to test it yourself, you will need a volt/ohmmeter [also called a VOM].With the VOM selector switch set to the 50 volt DC Scale, and the engine running, touch the negative [black] probe of the meter to the negative post of the battery [black cable attached], and the postitive probe [red] of the meter to the positive terminal [red cable attached] of the battery.Depending on the type of vehicle, charging system, and some other factors, the meter voltage reading will vary. However, the meter should read at least 13.5 DC volts minimum to about 16 volts maximum. If you have set the meter selector and connected the probes properly, and the indicated voltage is within this range, then the alternator is working properly.
Hall Probe. When the Hall Probe is held so that the magnetic field lines are passing at right angles through the sensor of the probe, the meter gives a reading of the value of magnetic flux density (B).
First check charging system. If charging is ok, check battery terminals and cables for corrosion. If ok, check for power draw,this is done by disconnecting the ground at battery and placing a test light in line(ground of test light connected to battery ground post and test probe connected to ground cable), close all doors and wait at least two minutes for computers to go to sleep. If you have a draw, test light should burn bright (battery voltage), remove fuses one at a time, until light goes out, this will indicate where the draw is located.
More than likely. Get the clamp fixed! When going at speed, the clamp will vibrate, and will only be half re-charging the battery (the alternator re-charges it during operation). This means that when you slow down, you may not be getting any charge to it at all. Either that, or its just not making contact with the terminal when you have slowed down.
If the battery continues to go down even though the system is charging it normally indicates there is an amperage draw. to test it without any meters; disconnect the negative battery cable and observe when you touch the connector to the battery. If there is even the slightest spark, you have an amperage draw and that will run your battery down.