fender mount starter solnoid stuck or conconcern in steering colum would be a starting place
The starter relay or the internal starter relay solenoid contact is closed either by 12 volts still applied to the relay or starter or the contacts have welded themselves together. Welded together sounds good if the starter is shorted and that would cause the cables to overheat also.
You need a new battery or it has a battery cable connection problem. The battery needs a full charge too - like driving around for an hour to charge it back up. A voltmeter is useful to read battery voltage when cranking. 12.6 volts =full charge. When cranking it may drop to 10 volts. If the starter won't turn over use the voltmeter to check for the 12 volts on the battery and then starter battery cable connection point.
Yes, summer weight oil can get too thick in the cold and prevent the engine from turning over fast enough to start. This is a big problem in many diesel cars and trucks. The question simply doesn't have enough information; but after all it is being asked in AUGUST so I seriously doubt thick oil is your actual problem. If the engine turns over too slowly to start, check out the starting circuit - battery, cables, starter solenoid, starter - and you'll probably find the problem (if slow cranking is the issue). Alternately, it depends on how the problem began (slow cranking). Could be a bearing almost seized up or some component in the serpentine belt drive that is already seized up (release tension on the belt to determine if that is the problem by releasing the idler (tensioner) pulley and dropping the belt loose before cranking. GOOD LUCK.
With the flywheel spinning at about 1,000 RPM at idle, the starter, if engaged with the flywheel, would be forced to spin between 15,000 and 20,000 RPM. Once the engine has turned over and is running, the overrun clutch will release the starter from the flywheel and prevent the gears from re-meshing (as in an accidental turning of the ignition key) while the engine is running
There isn't much information in that question. Is it cranking? If not, it could be battery, battery terminals, starter, keyswitch, neutral safety switch... who knows what else. If it's cranking but not catching, always go back tot he basics; compression, ignition and fuel. If any one of the three isn't there, it won't run. First and easiest, check the ignition. Find a spare sparkplug, pull a single plug wire from the engine, connect the sparkplug to the wire, lay the plug on a solid piece of metal and crank the engine to see if you have a good strong spark. If not, track it down. If you have spark, go on to fuel. Try a little starting fluid to see if you can get it to start briefly. If it starts with starting fluid you probably have a fuel delivery problem. If it won't start with starter fluid run a compression test.
Low battery? starter? starter solenoid? Battery cable loose or dirty? Seized engine? Neutral switch?
The starter would still crank the engine but the engine will fail to run.
mines stop cranking because of a blown head
NO.
Hello my friend,I believe you have either a broken "rack and rod" or an electrical ignition switch that has melted.The rack and rod consists of a gear that moves a rod inside the steering column. The rod moves an electrical switch that tells the starter to crank or stop cranking. Not sure about your truck, but Ford cars in 87 had many problems with melted ignition switches that would stop moving in either the cranking position, accessory or somewhere in between.Good luck : )
If the starter is engaging and is cranking the engine over but the engine refuses to run, my first guess would be the fuel pump is bad.
this question makes no sense ? i assume you mean prevent the car from cranking??? if so then no. a bad fuel pump may stop the car from running or starting but it should not stop it from cranking. a bad fuel pump relay could stop the car from cranking but that would depend on the year make and model of your car.
The starter relay or the internal starter relay solenoid contact is closed either by 12 volts still applied to the relay or starter or the contacts have welded themselves together. Welded together sounds good if the starter is shorted and that would cause the cables to overheat also.
Either the solenoid or starter has gone bad.
First of all you need to check the key ignition cylinder (it's where you put your key). Most likely it has to be replaced. You need to make sure that ON position does not trigger the starter. Only START should do that.If the cylinder is fine you will need to check the starter relay.
It sounds like you need to adjust the valves. If they are out of adjustment it will stop cranking on the compression stroke.
No, it shouldn't have anything to do with the starter. A bad fuel relay will stop the fuel pump from working.