pull the hose off the vacuum advance and some of them have a set screw inside the hole.
Any place that has constant vacuum Usually on the back side at the base of the carb.
each engine is different but give it to a mechanic and let him set it to somewhere around 32 - 34deg total timing. This will take the vacuum of the engine into play as well. If you don't want to spend the money take the vacuum off the carb and set to 4-6 deg on your timing cover. This will be pretty close to the same setting. If you have difficulty starting turn counter clockwise just a hair and you should be ok.
1 Locate the curb idle speed screw and the idle mixture screw; both can be found at the base of the two-barrel Holley carburetor. Turn the screws carefully with a screwdriver or allen wrench depending on which type of screw your carb uses in a counter-clockwise direction, until the screws bottom out and you feel resistance.2 Turn both screws clockwise 1 1/4 turns to use as a starting point to adjust the carburetor. Start the motor, letting it warm up for about five minutes.3 Remove the rubber vacuum hose from the vacuum port on the side of the carburetor. Attach a vacuum gauge to the vacuum port.4 Adjust the screws, moving them 1/8 of a turn at a time in a clockwise direction, alternating back and forth. Continue adjusting until both screws have readings of 600 RPMs on the vacuum gauge.5 Remove the vacuum gauge from the vacuum port on the carburetor, by hand. Attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum port.
Any auto parts store such as Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etcetera should have the part you are looking for.
Could be, a bad spark plug(s), a spark plug wire(s), a bad distributor cap, a bad rotor, a vacuum leak, bad fuel injector(s).
>you don't adjust the vaccuum advance. you adjust the distributor. then when engine is running the vaccuum advance will work automatically to the needs of the engine< As a matter of fact, the Ford vacuum advance is easily adjustable. Put a 1/8" Allen wrench through the open of the vacuum advance canister where the vacuum hose goes. Screw it in to slow the rate of advance and screw it out to speed it up. I think it works on a spring preload system.
84 has a vacuum advance 89 has an electronic advance Thats the only diff.
When it breaks. The only thing that might break in a distributor that would make you change the distributor is the vacuum advance can. Points, condenser, rotor and electronic ignition parts break too, but you can change them.
You would have to buy a cure kit for the Distributor. It comes with springs and weights. Just follow the directions, It's trile and erea.
engine loads
If you're talking about the vacuum advance for the 216/235 distributor, then yes it has the vacuum advance, which runs off a carburetor connection close to the idle adjustment screw.
Remove the distributor cap. Remove the hose to the vacuum advance. Remove the two screws holding the vacuum advance on. Install in reverse order.
at the distributor. mechanical type
It won't. That vacuum line tells the distributor When to advance the timing. There isn't enough vacuum loss to stall an engine.
Detach the vacuum hose from the vacuum advance unit. Remove the distributor cap and unscrew the two mounting screws. Pull the rotor off the shaft and remove those two mounting screws as well. Unscrew the two advance unit mounting screws and remove the unit from the distributor.
around 6-8 degrees with the vacuum advance blocked off. electronic ignition has no vacuum advance! How does one blank off the electronic advance???
If you have a manual transmission and a centrifugal advance distributor, you don't have any. If you have vacuum advance on your distributor, there's one vacuum hose running from the side of the carb to the distributor. If you have an automatic transmission, you've got a hose from the intake manifold to the control valve.