It might sputter and sound like it is trying.
A cracked or broken piston will cause a loss of compression, as will cracked or broken rings. The failure of a head gasket will also cause a loss of compression, as will broken, cracked or badly worn valves or valve seats. A crack in the cylinder itself (either the sleeve or the engine block), or a crack in the head itself will cause a loss of compression. A problem with the plug threads or the threads in the head (for engines that have plugs) can cause loss of compression, and injectors (for engines that have them) can leak around the threads, either because the injector threads or the threads in the head have been damaged.
If it was a head gasket then the compresion would be low in the affected cylinders low compresion as a result of wear wil make the car hard to start and overheating can also lead to electrical problems, Besides blowing a head gasket, overheating can also cause a cylinder head ro crack. Low compression and engine not starting or hard to start are symptoms. As mentioned above, do not discard the possibility of electrical problems due to overheating. However, the prime suspects are blown head gasket and/or cracked cylinder head.
It should try to start at least. It may or may not actually start but you should hear it fire on the 2 good plugs. Why not just replace all 4 spark plugs?
po303 is cylinder 3 misfire. I would start with cylinder #3 spark plug wire, look very carefully for chafed, worn or cracked spark plug wire, then check spark plug itself. If it is still acting up do a compression check on cylinder #3 to see if head gasket leaking. If all that looks okay it may be the #3 fuel injector failure.
your igniter is the least common thing to check if your car wont start. check your fuel pump first. their are three things that can cause it to do that. your fuel, ignition, or your compression. an igniter with run you over 150 dollars. start with the small inexpensive stuff first. buy or rent a fuel pressure gauge and check your pressure. if that's ok then check to see if you have spark from your spark plug wires. if you have spark and fuel then the only thing left is compression. rent a compression kit and check that.
NO. It should start at about 150 LBS. PER cylinder. And you can't have anymore then a 15 Lb. difference in any cylinder, are the engine will idle rough.
The compression in each cylinder should be within 10% of the others. 125 to 140 is rather poor, below that it probably won't start.
With a compression gauge! Take spark plug out of cylinder 1, insert gauge into the hole start the engine take note of compression on the dial Engine off Insert the spark plug Do the same for all the other cylinder.
Most of the times when you have low compression on one cylinder it's an indication that the head gasket is blown. If more than one cylinder has low compression and is hard to start the you most deffinatly have a blown head gasket
Running a compression test is pretty much the same for all internal combustion engines.Remove all sparkplugs, marking where the wires went; you don't want to connect the wrong wires to the plugs when you're finished.Start with cylinder 1, screw in a compression gauge where the sparkplug just came out. Some compression gauges just press in, but I prefer the screw in type.Have an assistant engage the starter as though trying to start the engine. Obviously the engine won't start without plugs.You should hear and/or feel the engine compression on the single cylinder with the gauge in place; make sure that cylinder goes through compression cycle at least 3 times.Read the value on the gauge. The gauge should hold the compression reading, allowing you to record the reading.Write down the compression reading and the cylinder number.CLEAR THE COMPRESSION GAUGE. You can release the compression reading, usually by pressing a button or turning a knob. It's different for different style gauges.Repeat the process for all cylinders.Compare the compression value for all cylinders; they should be within a few percent of each other. Any small variance can be attributed to cylinder or valve wear. Large differences indicate severe problems. If any two adjacent cylinders have zero compression, you probably have a blown head gasket.
Compression TestingYes, IF your battery can "crank" [turn the engine over] then a compression test can be accomplished even though the engine will not start and run.You need to remove all of the spark plugs to reduce the "drag" caused by all of the other cylinders not under test.Attach the compression tester to one cylinder at a time, and then crank the engine for a few seconds. Read and write down the reading, and then move to the next cylinder until you've check them all.If your battery is low, you may not get full readings, but for comparing cylinder readings, the ratios will be about the same.
Run a compression check and examine the plugs while you're at it. If you see one or more plugs that are dark and wet, that cylinder isn't firing. If that cylinder also has low or no compression, it has a burned valve.
Start by testing the compression. It should be consistent within a few PSI on each cylinder. Any cylinders that have little or no compression probably have a burned valve. If all cylinders are up, check the plugs, wiring and distributor.
Think a little deeper. Combustion that fails is a misfire. You have addressed the spark side of it. There is a fuel and compression possible trouble. Try swapping the fuel injector for that cylinder with another and see if the misfire moves to the other cylinder. Compression test the cylinder to see if it is in specs. Try a cylinder leak down test and see if it is losing compression. Perhaps there is a carbon build up on the valves preventing good seating?
Spark plug, wires, low compression due to burnt valve, blown head gasket, or cracked head. A simple compression test will eliminate some items. Start by replacing the plugs & plug wires.
The Concorde could misfire for several reasons. Start by checking for proper fire to the spark plugs. Then check engine compression to see if a cylinder compression is down.
Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Move #1 cylinder to where piston is up, and on the compression stroke (TDC). Easiest way to do this is with a compression tester on the #1 cylinder - rotor cap OFF. When you see the pressure build...you're on the compression stroke. The rotor cap should be at the #1 cylinder firing position...simply re-install the rotor cap at this time - noting which button is #1. Starting at #1 install the wire for the #1 cylinder onto the rotor cap...the next button (clockwise) on the cap should correlate to #8; the third button on the rotor cap is, cylinder #4..and so on. work your way around the rotor cap until you have all 8 cylinder wires in place...ignition coil wire in the middle button. Engine should start and run.