Usually, intercooler cracked at corners, duct work leakage from holes chaffed thru from other wire harness or hoses or wastegate diaphrams leak also causing lack of boost.
Fuel pressure regulator.
if you were handy with a welder you could fit any turbo to any engine, but that does not go to say that it will work, if you don't drop the compression ratio then you will get detonation and all sorts of problem, depending on what your going to turbo, you'd need a remap, different injectors, the timing would need adjusting, you cant just attach a turbo to the exhaust put the outlet/boost pipe on the manifold and expect it to work (might be a little easier for an older engine with a carb as you could run bigger jets and twiddle with the dizzy
this is normal, when the car is cold or off. the oil sinks down in to the oil pan.,. If this is a GM engine you may be using an aftermarket oil filter that allows oil to drain back this is not a good thing and can cause engine damage. GM has a TSB on this very problem.
If you are loosing coolant, you have a leaking head gasket. If you are loosing oil and have a turbo, the seal on the turbo is bad. either intake manifold gasket or head gasket is leaking
As you did not say which vehicle this can only be a general answer Unlikely that a faulty coil would cause an engine to knock. Very possible it would cause bucking, if the coil is failing there would be a lack of spark. This would cause bucking/missfire, which may cause the engine to shake on it's mountings possibly causing a knock from contact with the vehicle frame.
Fuel leak.
IF it is Turbo charged then that would be the turbo.
The TURBINE inside a turbo-charger stops spinning when the vehicle is at idle because there isn't enought exhaust pressure to keep it spinning, lowering the internal engine pressure. creating less wear on the turbo and engine also alowing the engine to idle.. if it was to continue forcing air into the engine it would also need to force gas. to match the air fuel ratio to keep the car from dying, causing the engine to rev.. not stay at idle..
The turbocharger was invented in 1905 by Swiss engineer Alfred Büchi. There would not be a "turbo engine" without the invention of the turbo so he gets the credit.
Rebuild the turbo! Your oil contamination is most likely coming from a leak between your turbo's oiling and cooling passages. That's my best guess w/o looking at it.
I have been offered a Mitsubishi 4D35 and a turbo charger c/w manifold that is not yet fitted. Is this engine made standard production with turbo? Or would the turbo be off a 4D34T? If this turbo is fitted, what would be the HP and the Torque from the engine?
If it is high enough to be splashed by the crankshaft it would foam up. That would cause a lack of oil pressure and engine damage.
fit a twin turbo engine
Non-turbo is 2.5 liters, glt/ low pressure turbo is 2.4 liters, R is 2.3 liters, I'm not sure about the t-5 but I would guess 2.3.
it has a machanical fuel pump mounted on the engine. so there would be no pressure as you turn the ignition on, but would only get pressure once the engine has turned a few times, by the starter motor, in order to create fuel pressure. but check your fuel lines, usually they would be your problem
You would be better off just replacing the engine with the turbo version from a Z31 or even the DOHC twin turbo version from the Z32. The reason for this is the large differences between the turbo and non-turbo that go way beyond just a turbo. The compression ratio is higher in the non-turbo to make up for the lack of boost. Adding a turbo to that compression ratio will cause detonation. Bottom line, just the cost of a turbo system, ecu, and changing the compression ratio (just the basic changes you need) will still cost far more than just replacing the engine.
It does it by forcing more air/fuel into the cylinder than would be possible normally aspirated. This increases the cylinder pressure when it is ignited, for a longer/ stronger push on the piston increasing the engine's torque.