No, it will not lighten stain, just add another layer. The only way I have ever been able to lighten stain is to sand it off carefully.
no
Can you put stain in polyurethane to darken the color?
You can't stain a door that is already sealed. You have to first remove the sealer down to bare wood so that the stain can penetrate into the wood to the color desired, then reseal with a polyurethane or spar varnish.
Yes, but only if the stain is a few years old and really dry. You have to wash the stain thoroughly to remove the chalked pigments and then prime it to seal the checks in the wood. One disadvantage of stain is that it will not keep the wood from checking as it dries. Either a latex of alkyd primer will work well. You can then paint it with your latex top coat.
Try using oxalic acid, also called wood bleach, on the water damaged area before attempting to stain the wood. If that removes the stain, sand the surface, use a wood conditioner or a clear stain as a first coat, then apply the colored stain. Once that's dry, apply a clear polyurethane for interior use, or a spar varnish for exterior use.
no
It can be very difficult to try to lighten stain on wood once it is applied. The best way to do it is to sand the wood down and start over.
Can you put stain in polyurethane to darken the color?
You can't stain a door that is already sealed. You have to first remove the sealer down to bare wood so that the stain can penetrate into the wood to the color desired, then reseal with a polyurethane or spar varnish.
Yes, but only if the stain is a few years old and really dry. You have to wash the stain thoroughly to remove the chalked pigments and then prime it to seal the checks in the wood. One disadvantage of stain is that it will not keep the wood from checking as it dries. Either a latex of alkyd primer will work well. You can then paint it with your latex top coat.
Try using oxalic acid, also called wood bleach, on the water damaged area before attempting to stain the wood. If that removes the stain, sand the surface, use a wood conditioner or a clear stain as a first coat, then apply the colored stain. Once that's dry, apply a clear polyurethane for interior use, or a spar varnish for exterior use.
i'm going with minwax polyshades. cabot also makes a stain & polyurethane in one application. i noticed there are 3 questions about how to mix stain & polyurethane on this site. all 3 are unanswered. i was researching the topic & i've seen reference to a polyurethane stain kit. can't find out what a polyurethane stain kit is. my tenant left behind an opened can of minwax polyshades. i tried some of it out & i think it looks fine. i sanded some of the scratches & paint stains out, put on a coat of natural wood stain & i'm using the polyshades as an overcoat. there are still some scratches but it looks a lot better than it did before. the polyshades should help mask some of the scratches & give it a more even tone. bottom line - it's really difficult to find information on how to mix stain & polyurethane so the minwax & cabot all in one products look good to me. i wish they came in sizes larger than a quart, but easier to go pick that product up than to continue looking for information that indicates what a polyurethane stain kit is & how to use it.
Minwax makes a product called Polyshades that has stain and polyurethane mixed together. It is not meant for floors. Adding stain to polyurethane will cause the chemicals to be deluded. It will not bond correctly and possibly not dry at all.
You don't. You will most likely have to restain after stripping.
You can stain balsa wood.
Wood stain is abosorbed into the wood, so the wood takes on the color of the stain. This is why the features of the wood are still visible, unlike with paint.
Wood stain is for sealing and emphasising the natural colour of wood