Sorry to say that you probably wrecked the syncro in some of the gears if it is only in between certain gears
One common reason for the gears sticking is incorect oil type, motorcycles have wet clutch and specific motorcycle oil must be used, otherwise the clutch drags and gears are hard to shift.Aside from any major problems with the transmission itself, is your clutch working properly? Is it set correctly and fully disengaged when it is not being used. I would start here. You may need new plates in your clutch itself.
the Clutch is not fully disengaged. compressor might need to be replaced. I would bring it to the shop. Look at the Compressor and if u notice shavings then it has done its duty. If you do not want the AC anymore and want a cheap fix. Just go to a AC shop and get them to remove the clutch. the Clutch is not fully disengaged. compressor might need to be replaced. I would bring it to the shop. Look at the Compressor and if u notice shavings then it has done its duty. If you do not want the AC anymore and want a cheap fix. Just go to a AC shop and get them to remove the clutch.
Your throw out bearing is the problem.
The transmissions aren't made by Freightliner, and this answer applies to all commercial truck manufacturers. A fully automatic transmission is clutch free. An autoshift basically adds a synchroniser gear and computer operated shift mechanism to a manual transmission, and still uses a clutch. With an autoshift, poor clutch manipulation often causes the synchroniser gear to go out, making the transmission unable to shift. On a fully automatic transmission, that problem does not exist.
check your clutch slave cylinder for leaks,its bolted on your transmission,about 20 bucks
No. They did make a manually shifted "Semi Automatic transmission". No clutch, just shifted manually.
Probably do to a bad pressure plate and or clutch plate. I would first check linkage adjustment and slave cylinder before changing clutch.
you cant edit: In order to start any manual transmission car, the clutch must be fully depressed.
The clutch pedal has an assist spring and return spring. The assist spring tension must be adjusted to create a balance point at which the clutch pedal will over center and return to the fully disengaged position. It is also possible that the system may have air or the push rod attached to the pedal may be out of adjustment.
To shift up, no, a full clutch squeeze (disengagement) is not required. To shift down, it is strongly recommended to completely squeeze the clutch in. Sqeezing the clutch lever all the way in to the grip reduces loads on the transmission, so in common street riding applications it is best to disengage the clutch fully while shifting either up or down.
Clutch drag is when the clutch pedal is fully depressed and the clutch is still partially engaged. When the clutch pedal is released or in the up position the engine is connected to the transmission input shaft. When the pedal is depressed or in the down position the engine is disconnected completely from the transmission. When the clutch drags it is still partially attached to the engine. A dragging clutch can cause a glazed flywheel and premature failure of the clutch. It will also cause the syncros to work twice as hard to slow down or speed up a gear inside the transmission when shifting. Basically syncros will wear out faster than normal and may not work properly depending on how bad the clutch drag is.
A fully manual valve body in an automatic will need to be shifted manually ( no clutch ) May not be available for your application .