i have talked to a cub cadet rep,and he states the flywheel key shearing is do to not tighly tightened flywheel bolt..
I have cub cadet 1042 that keeps shearing the key to the flywheel. I replaced 3 keys. I don't see any damage or marks on the teeth of the starter or flywheel. Motor spins freely by hand. What could be causing this? If your Cub Cadet LT1042 was made in 2005 or 2006 there is a engineering flaw in the engine short block. It is caused by the block cracking. Look at the engine in front looking toward the rear of the tractor. Now to the left of the engine down around where the cylinder head meets the case there could be a hair line crack running the length of the case. If this happened you are loosing vacuum that makes the fuel pump work. If there is a crack take it to any Cub Cadet dealer and they will replace the entire engine at NO cost. I just went through it with a dealer in Ohio, one refused to help but Northcoast equipment in Kingsville, OH bent over backward to solve this problem that I was having for 2 years,
Pull the flywheel off.
generally when a pull rope jerks back when pulling it is a sign that you have a sheared flywheel key. remove the screen off the top of the flywheel and look to see if the keyway on the flywheel is offset to the keyway on the shaft
Timing on all Briggs & Stratton small engines is set at the factory and non-adjustable. It is determined by the placement of the armature (coil) and position of flywheel on crankshaft. Unless the crankshaft is bent or the flywheel key is sheared (both are possible after an impact or sudden stoppage), timing is perfect. Rough running is likely an intake or mechanical problem. Backfiring is likely a carb problem
Your flywheel key might be sheared
check the flywheel key. it sounds like it has sheared and will need to be replaced
Timing on all Briggs & Stratton small engines is set at the factory and non-adjustable. It is determined by the placement of the armature (coil) and position of flywheel on crankshaft. Unless the crankshaft is bent or the flywheel key is sheared (both are possible after an impact or sudden stoppage), timing is perfect. Rough running is likely an intake or mechanical problem.
Timing on all Briggs & Stratton small engines is set at the factory and non-adjustable. It is determined by the placement of the armature (coil) and position of flywheel on crankshaft. Unless the crankshaft is bent or the flywheel key is sheared (both are possible after an impact or sudden stoppage), timing is perfect. Rough running is likely an intake or mechanical problem.
Timing on all Briggs & Stratton small engines is set at the factory and non-adjustable. It is determined by the placement of the armature (coil) and position of flywheel on crankshaft. Unless the crankshaft is bent or the flywheel key is sheared (both are possible after an impact or sudden stoppage), timing is perfect. Rough running is likely an intake or mechanical problem.
Drill an appropriate sized hole in the end of the key and use a stud extractor. If that is not possible it is likely that you will simply have to cut it of and replace the flywheel
Timing is fixed and determined by flywheel. The only way for timing to be off is if the flywheel key has sheared. As the magnets on the flywheel pass the armature (coil), a spark is sent, end of story.
I would check the flywheel key and see if it has sheared. On push mowers, the key can shear if you plug the deck, or if you hit a solid object like a tree root or stake. The flywheel key sets the ignition timing of the engine, and a sheared one will cause the problems you describe. You will have to remove the shroud and flywheel to check the key. If you don't know how to do this, there should be some basic repair manuals at your local library or online.
soundlike you are haveing a eltrical problem ether the coil statior or may even be possible to have sheared the woodriff key on flywheel there are ways to test your coil and statior