make sure that the engine cam is in correct position .make sure that pump lever is going into correct position
im not sure if leaver goes under or over cam,but whichever make sure it is correct
Do not use sealant on the head gasket. I use permatex on the threads of the bolts that go into water jackets.
Yes. I would run a wire brush over the threads, to clean them up, and, do not forget to put Permatex, the brown liquid, on the threads, as they go into water jackets.
Same as small block. 3/8's inch, NC, (16 threads per inch) and I would use 2 and a half inch long, with lock washers. The head of these bolts will need a 9/16ths inch wrench.
No, simply check the bolt threads for an hour glass shape. If it has this THEN replace bolts
You can try to clean the head bolts using either a wire brush and solvent, a bead blaster or soda blaster. After the bolts are cleaned thread them into the block to make sure they turn freely. If there is any indication that the threads are damaged do not use the head bolts. Do not use a sandblaster to clean the head bolts since that will cause erosion of the threads, making the head bolt unusable.
There are 6 bolts that hold the transmission to the 4.3L block.
35ft. lbs.
3/8 bolts with standard SAE threads that are no less than one inch long. these bolts will have a 9/16 head. i recomend GRADE 8 bolts. lesser grade bolts will work but can sheer. i used 1 1/4 inch long bolts on my big block with no issues. oh and there are 6 bolts that go from bell to block
The question itself indicates you need to do a bit of reading on the hot-rod type websites. 1st, chase the threads in the block with a thread chaser (not a tap), next be sure the head bolt threads are clean, then dip the bolt into clean motor oil, let it drip off then torque to your heart's content. remember to follow the head bolt tightening sequence (generally middle of head and then outward toward each end. run the engine to operating temperature, shut it off and re-torque the bolts. This answer assumes (factory, iron heads, no aluminum heads. Bolts for aluminum heads MUST have steel washers between the bolt and the head. Good luck. Do it right or you will be replacing a head gasket (AGAIN). I like to put Indian Head shellac compound on the head bolt threads to be sure water doesn't travel up the threads. The sealant IS NECESSARY ON A CHEVY, because the head bolts penetrate the waterjacket. Told you, that you were a rookie then left out vital information myself because I was thinking of torque readings ONLY. YOU HAVE TO PUT SEALANT ON THE THREADS. Sorry for the goof.
17 per head 34 in all
Small Block Chevrolet Torque Specifications Main cap bolts (oil on threads).....................................................70 ft.-lbs. first set wrench for 45 ft.-lbs and tighten each bolt, then set wrench for 70 ft.-lbs and torque each bolt again. Rod bolts (oil on threads)............................................................45 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt (oil on threads).......................................................55 ft.-lbs. Head bolts (sealer on threads).....................................................65 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs (oil on threads)....................................50 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts (oil on threads)..............................................20 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (sealer on threads except four corner bolts)....35 ft.-lbs. Harmonic balancer (oil on threads)................................................65 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/flexplate bolts (oil on threads).........................................65 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts (oil on threads)..............................................35 ft.-lbs. These specs are for stock-type bolts, if you are using aftermarket bolts you should follow their recommended torque specifications.
Yes. Bolts right in.