On my 93 Buick Century, 3.3 V6 engine I went to the junk yard and got one off another Century and the rings were not similar. The SAME crank sensor with matching Harmonic Balancer put on an engine with a different configuration will NOT read correctly. Put the wrong harmonic balancer on the engine and not match crank sensors and the balancer rings will destroy the sensor! I tried putting a matching set on my Buick from another Buick with a different pattern and the car would not start. So , I'm back in the same position looking for a matching set.
Make sure to OBSERVE the clearance as you torque down the Harmonic Balancer Bolt as you put it on. DON'T just ram it up on the crankshaft w/o observing the clearances of the interruptor rings going into the Crank Sensor. Only have .025 clearances! I watched mine from the top down as I slowly tightened the bolt.
Hope this helps.
David, in TN
The crankshaft position sensor is located at the driver's side bell housing. There are two sensors exactly alike being held with an Allen bolt. The one sensor closest to the front of the car is the speed sensor and the one closest to the rear of the car is the crankshaft position sensor. Hope that helps...
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 2.5L REMOVAL Remove speed control servo from driver's side strut tower. Remove crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt Crankshaft Position Sensor Pull crankshaft position sensor straight up out of the transaxle housing. (Disconnect crankshaft position sensor electrical connector from the wiring harness connector. INSTALLATION - ADJUSTABLE All vehicles will be equipped with an adjustable crankshaft position sensor. This can be identified by an elongated mounting hole in the sensor. NOTE: If the removed sensor is to be reinstalled, clean off the old spacer on the sensor face. A NEW SPACER must be attached to the sensor face before installation. If the sensor is being replaced, confirm that the paper spacer is attached to the face of the new sensor Crankshaft Position Sensor and Spacer Install sensor in transaxle and push sensor down until contact is made with the drive plate. While holding the sensor in this position, install and tighten the retaining bolt to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque. Connect crankshaft position sensor electrical connector to the wiring harness connector. Attach connector to heater tube bracket. Install speed control servo. Tighten nuts to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.) torque. extra steps for Simplification added by Billebones@AOL.com: Also: Jack up car and put it on jackstands Remove left front tire, remove plastic shield covering the battery then use a long extension with a 10mm socket to remove and install the bolt holding the sensor right over the top of the axle, this definitively simplifies getting at the bolt, if you have someone up on top to guide it back in it will be even easier. I did not remove heater tube bracket and I plugged it together before I put the sensor into the bell housing
the crank sensor is on the back of the engine above/behind the starter Two wires green connector I'm not sure of the exact position, but I had one changed on a 98 SL2 and they put the car on a rack to access it, sugesting it being underneath the crankshaft. Hope this helps.
The crank sensor (real name is crankshaft position sensor) senses when a notch on the crankshaft goes by and sends a pulse to the car's computer. This tells the computer where the crankshaft is in it rotation so that the computer will fire the spark plug at the correct time. This also allows the computer to change the timing under different conditions such as if gas of too low an octane rating is being used causing predetonation (called knocking) which is sensed by the knock sensor.
The crank sensor (real name is crankshaft position sensor) senses when a notch on the crankshaft goes by and sends a pulse to the car's computer. This tells the computer where the crankshaft is in it rotation so that the computer will fire the spark plug at the correct time. This also allows the computer to change the timing under different conditions such as if gas of too low an octane rating is being used causing predetonation (called knocking) which is sensed by the knock sensor.
Can't give you specifics but most Crankshaft sensors (CKP) are located at the front of the motor under the timing cover or at the back of the motor where they can sense the rotation of the flywheel. The rear ones are generally located in the tranny bell housing. Some engines were made with no crankshaft sensor. They get there timing info from a sensor in the distributor. A camshaft sensor. Newer vehicles are being made with no distributor; they must have a crank sensor. It is on the engine block, behind the starter.
From what I have learned Sensor B is just a code that is being transmitted to the computer. There are several different codes that the crankshaft sensor will send depending on what is going wrong with the car. There should only be one crankshaft sensor on the vehicle. To reach the sensor, you need to jack the car up. With a 15mm or 17mm (forget which), you need to remove 2 starter bolts and move the starter out of the way. Behind and above the starter you will find the sensor. A 10mm bolt holds it. Fairly easy to do, took about an hour in the dark at 0F. Brrrrr
No, the knock sensor is not the same as a throttle position sensor. The knock sensor is used to determine if the engine is knocking caused by too much spark advance for the octane rating of the fuel being used. The throttle position sensor tells the engine computer what the position the throttle valve is in to determine gasoline flow .
Most injectors should show battery voltage IE approx 13V. Where to look if not getting voltage. Immobiliser. Injector relay. Wiring harness. Crankshaft position sensor.
It is a crankshaft sensor / cam position sensor correlation error. In otherwords the sensor in your distributor that reports the position of the cam shaft and the crankshaft position sensor behind the harmonic balancer are not in synch. The most common cause is a distributor being removed and replaced a bit off. Second would be wear of the distributor gear and third would be excessive slack/wear of the timing chain and gears. last but not least would be a bad sensor or wires from the sensor. If you have had the distributor removed for any reason re doing that at top dead center is reccomended. If not check the distributor gear for wear. You can test for wear by turning the distributor counter clockwise a degree or two and see if the code goes away. If this test is successfull replace the gear soon as it also drives your oil pump!! This is done properly with a scan tool that can report cam position while running at 1,200 rpm it should be 0.
When my 2000 ml320 would turn over but not catch when i tried to start it, the problem ended up being the crankshaft position sensor, which had to be replaced, and ran me about $400. The most obvious symptom of this problem was that the car completely died while i was driving, and then wouldn't start for about twenty minutes afterward.
Is the device you are calling the manuall shift lever sensor really a neutral safety switch? It is a device to help prevent the vehicle from being startted in a drive gear.