Technology, current at the time of US electrification, locked the US into 110, then 120 volt outlets. Europe's electrification came later, and proceeded in response to advanced technology. The US was too deep into the 110/120 volt infrastructure to upgrade. The US has remained in this situation ever since.
House voltage was first determined by Thomas Edison who set it for optimal performance of his equipment.
The United States distribution system actually provides a 240 volt residential service in the form of two 120 volt conductors and a neutral conductor. You can see this if you look inside your breaker panel. When a load is applied from either 120 volt conductor to the neutral (as is the case for typical receptacles, lights, and so forth) it is using 120 volts.
However, when a load is applied from one 120 volt conductor to the other, without using the neutral, the voltage being used is the sum of both 120 volt conductors (240 volts). This is the case for many water heaters, air conditioners, electric furnaces, clothes dryers, and so forth.
So equipment that is connected to strictly 240 volts is connected with only a two wire cable plus a safety ground wire. (For example 240 volt base board heaters use this.) The only time a cable with three wires plus safety ground is used is if 120/240 volts is needed in the equipment. (For example kitchen ranges or washing machines which have time clocks or programmers that require only a 120 volt feed.)
For systems outside the US, receptacles are 240 volts. Lower voltages tend to be safer, which is why in the US, you are receiving 240 volts at the home box and 120 at receptacles, instead of the thousands of volts generated by the power plant.
Power is transmitted over High Voltage cables - usually above 10K Volts. The power is then stepped down before it reaches consumers. Outlet power in the US is 120 volts, increased from 110 volts sometime around 1950.
The US system theoretically could be made as good or better than the European system with no infrastructure change, except appliances and consumer structuresthemselves (collectively costing home owners billions). US houses get 240 volts at the panel. If wall outlets all were fed with 240V you'd have the lower current and higher power advantage of the European system and it would be safer too, since each "hot" would still be only 120V from ground (not 240V) which keeps the reduced shock hazard advantage. Of course it is still possible to touch the two hots.
The origin of the 120 volt standard dates back to the feud between George Westinghouse and Thomas Edison. The first public electricity utilities were set up by Edison, whose concept was that there would be a power station (Coal fired) at the end of every street, supplying low voltage DC. Westinghouse came up with the idea of using AC, which can be transmitted over long distances from a small number of giant power stations. Edison worked to get the concept banned to protect his system by claiming that it would lead to the use of dangerously high voltages.
The result of this public debate was that the US opted for the low voltage, but using AC as Westinghouse recommended.
It means the secondary of the transformer is connected to earth, or ground as it is called in some parts of the world. The opposite would be called a floating or isolated transformer.
A CPU consists 3 units and i assume a module is an external device of some kind. In that is the case then the limitation or bandwidth with which data can be transferred back and forth safely namely the I/O. The data will be limited by layout of the board and RAMS speed more then the CPU that runs much faster but usually is waiting for data
It is the design of the said motor. Star motor has to be connected in star and delta motor has to be connected in Delta formation. Motor will burn out or not work otherwise. Some high rated motor needs to be started using start delta starter to reduce the inrush of huge current in the starting, but runs in Delta formation after few seconds of running in star mode.
Ideally, resistance and current are independent. They are tied together by ohms law, which states voltage divided by current = resistance. Increasing the voltage will increase the current, so resistance stays unchanged. In the real world. resistance will often change some depending on the temperature.
voltage drop across all the parallel elements is equal and it is equal to input voltage. we know for home applications in voltage and frequency is fixed, ex: in India voltage=230v and frequency=50 Hz. All devices we used in home having voltage specification =230 to 240v, but different current. so home use parallel circuits. To make this a bit more general, in a series circuit each device in the circuit has some dependence on all the other items. A simple example is a number of light bulbs in series. If any one light bulb burns out the circuit opens and all the other bulbs go out. Also if you needed to add more bulbs in the same series circuit then all bulbs would be dimmer.
Do you mean Single Phase? This is what supplies American homes and some commercial buildings. It is 120V/240V.
It may not blow, but it will turn twice as fast and burn out very quickly. It is meant for 110 only. Check the sump pump. Some of them can be wired either 120v or 240v. If yours is like that, just wire the motor for 240v and plug it in.
120v and 240v cords usually have different end configurations and will not plug into the different recepticles. However, if you changed the plug end, and the cord has the proper size rating, then yes, you could use the same cord. But, it also depends on the cord too. Most 120v cords only have three wires in them. One "hot one "neutral" and one "ground" wire. A 240v cord would have FOUR wires, two "hot" wires, one neutral wire, and one ground wire. Therefore, if you changed the voltage from 120v to 240 using a 3 wire cord, you'd not have a ground wire and that could be VERY dangerous. Note that occasionally a 240v device (e.g. some motors) will only need three wires (red,black,green, no neutral) and can be wired with a 120v cord if the cord is rated for 240v.
It depends on what voltage outputs you have on the generator. Some generators have 120V only. Some have a combination of 120V and 240V. Watts = Amps x volts. If the generator has only 120V output then you can pull, Watts/volts = 16.6 amps from the machine. If you have 240V capacity then you can pull, Watts/volts = 8.3 amps from the machine. To put it into perspective a toaster draws about 1500 watts. Check your appliances and check out what they draw. Appliances are usually rated either in amps or watts. My personal generator is 6000 watts and I can carry part of the house load on it.
At best, nothing will happen; the appliances won't run. At worst, the appliance will try to run on the lower voltage, fail to do so, and damage some of the mechanical parts. This is one of the reasons why a 240V appliance has a different plug than a 110V item.
You really cant do it because a 220 has a heating element in it to dry the clothes unlike gas that uses fire to dry the clothes and the 120 is to turn the drum.Your drier will keep poppin breakers which isn't good at all.Outlets and Power(110V outlets and 120V outlets are practically the same for this discussion. I will refer to them as 120V. Same with 220V/240V outlets.) By 110V outlet I'm assuming you mean a standard US 120V 15A outlet.This outlet can provide a maximum of 15A at 120V. This means the outlet can provide 1,800W of power. ( Volts x Amps = Watts ) This is the maximum amount of power this outlet can provide, no more. Also, this is assuming nothing else is drawing power off the circuit this outlet is on. If you try to pull 1800W from an outlet and plug anything else into this circuit, the breaker will blow.Your dryer is designed to run off a 30A 240V circuit. Let's say, for argument, it draws 24A at 240V. This means your appliance requires 5,760W of power to run correctly. This is 3.2 times the absolute maximum amount of power your 120V outlet can provide. There is no way you can run this appliance off this outlet. You have a larger problem here than the voltage difference.You can't, you need both a and b phases. You need to install an 240v receptacle.And don't upgrade to 240V by using the same wires!! Some complete idiots will try this and burn the neighborhood down.
For USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.1) An outlet for 240V is totally different from a regular 120V outlet. 2) The wiring for 240V is also much heavier than for 120V.3) The double pole circuit breaker necessary for 240V is different to the single pole breaker used for 120V.4) Anyway it is not clear why you would want to try to change a 240V outlet to a 120V type?5) If you could log in and add some more details below here so we knew your reasoning for wanting this change to take place, someone may be able to assist you much further.The reason why I need to do this is because there is only one 3-prong 240V outlet in the water heater closet feeding an inline water heater and I want to install an instant hot water recycling system which runs on 120v I so need the extra power outlet.If you want to keep the existing 240V water heater then you cannot add another outlet to the circuit, not even a 240V one, let alone a 120V one!The wiring and its circuit breaker is only rated to carry the current for one water heater and nothing else. If you add another appliance to the circuit you risk causing a house fire: the breaker may buzz but not trip so that the wiring gets hotter and hotter until something catches on fire!So, if you are planning to buy a new hot water recycling system it surely deserves to be installed safely and correctly?So why not, for your instant hot water recycling system, have a licensed electrician install a separate 120V circuit with the correct breaker, the correct-sized cable and the correct outlet near to the existing 240V outlet?As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Some appliances may work, but I imagine most would either blow a fuse or just burn out. Definately not advised unless you use a transformer. With the right transformer everything should work fine.
Maybe you have a 'brownout', vs. a blackout. Brownouts are the result of undervoltages. i.e. 90v instead of 120v. This can cause lights, etc. to work more dimly than usual, and some appliances may work while others need the actual 120v. Another possibility is that you lost only half of your split single phase service. This would cause all 120v appliances connected to the good 'half' to work normally. The 120v appliances on the other 'half' would not work, and all 240v appliances would not work.
NO. Don't try it. Some are designed to work on either, some aren't. If it won't work on 120v, it won't work on 240v.
You can't "convert" a 120V receptacle into a 240V receptacle.A proper new 240V branch circuit complete with correctly sized circuit breakers, wiring and socket outlet is required.For more information see the Related Question shown below.As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Actually, I have seen this in a respected electronics magazine (Elektor) quite some time ago: A diode (selected to be capable to handle the amps, the voltage and the heat from the bulb - if placed inside the lighting fixture) is used to "cut off" one half of the AC sine wave and thus sending pulses of 120V to an incandescent light bulb, simulating a simple dimming device. The proposal was meant to run 240V bulbs at 50% of their brightness but I am pretty certain this concept can be used to run 120V bulbs from 240V power. One other way of connecting 120V bulbs to 240V would be to connect two 120V bulbs OF THE SAME WATTAGE in SERIES, so the two bulbs form their own voltage divider. Not sure what happens if one bulb burns out - I would expect the other one to blow too, as a dying light bulb represents zero Ohms (plasma/arcing) for a few milliseconds before it goes dark forever.