When designing composite members, one first needs to consider the properties necessary of the beam, in response to the expected loading. Basically, what will the beam experience? Is it flexural loads, or compressive/axial forces? The loading will greatly influence how the steel moves with the concrete as they are bonded together, and whether or not some bonding grout or other bonding agents are needed. There are many ways you can encase a steel beam in concrete, but let's assume one case: you have a beam that will take mainly flexural loads and that you want the steel beam to be fully encased by the concrete (no steel showing on the outside, in other words). What I would do is install formwork to encase the conecrete on a suitable, hard surface. Then, after having selected the right steel section for the beam, I would drill small holes in the beam flanges in order to attack galvanized anchors/wires. These can be placed anywhere you like, as long as there are not too many of them. These anchors, typically two on each side of the beam's total length, could be attached to cables or chains that are, in turn, attached to hoists or engine-mounts that can lower the beam carefully into the desired position inside the concrete formwork. Make measurements for how low the steel beam should sit in the concrete, and doublecheck your measurements: after this, there's no turning back. Add concrete to the mix and, if you have concrete vibrators, use them to allow for proper concrete mix settlement and extraction of air bubbles from the mix. This will also ensure a good bond between the concrete and the steel. Then, let the concrete set for 5-7 days and store it in a humid room or location (humid, not wet/rainy). Lastly, remove formwork and cut the wires/anchors that are sticking out of the concrete. I would put some appropriate sealant on these locations, as they can be sites for water infiltration in the concrete. Their inner portions cannot be removed at this point. So there you have it, my approach to encasing steel beams in concrete.
That depends on the concrete, as well as weather conditions, and the load the concrete would be subjected to. Concrete gains strength over time and the usual benchmarks are 7 days, and 28 days. At 28 days concrete has usually cured to nearly its maximum strength. For a concrete footing in a residential environment say a deck or home the concrete will usually cure for a minimum of three days before the formwork is removed and the rest of the structure is built. For a commercial or civil project the curing is subject to the engineers discretion.
It is the grade of concrete which indicates the strength of concrete after 28 days curing. M #) means the strength of concrete after 28 days of curing will be 30 N/mm2 .
You should wait a minimum of 28 days before you seal concrete. If you pour your concrete in summer, than a minimum of 14 days is acceptable. If you seal concrete any quicker, there is a chance moisture will be trapped inside.
curing time of concrete 14-28 days
When designing composite members, one first needs to consider the properties necessary of the beam, in response to the expected loading. Basically, what will the beam experience? Is it flexural loads, or compressive/axial forces? The loading will greatly influence how the steel moves with the concrete as they are bonded together, and whether or not some bonding grout or other bonding agents are needed. There are many ways you can encase a steel beam in concrete, but let's assume one case: you have a beam that will take mainly flexural loads and that you want the steel beam to be fully encased by the concrete (no steel showing on the outside, in other words). What I would do is install formwork to encase the conecrete on a suitable, hard surface. Then, after having selected the right steel section for the beam, I would drill small holes in the beam flanges in order to attack galvanized anchors/wires. These can be placed anywhere you like, as long as there are not too many of them. These anchors, typically two on each side of the beam's total length, could be attached to cables or chains that are, in turn, attached to hoists or engine-mounts that can lower the beam carefully into the desired position inside the concrete formwork. Make measurements for how low the steel beam should sit in the concrete, and doublecheck your measurements: after this, there's no turning back. Add concrete to the mix and, if you have concrete vibrators, use them to allow for proper concrete mix settlement and extraction of air bubbles from the mix. This will also ensure a good bond between the concrete and the steel. Then, let the concrete set for 5-7 days and store it in a humid room or location (humid, not wet/rainy). Lastly, remove formwork and cut the wires/anchors that are sticking out of the concrete. I would put some appropriate sealant on these locations, as they can be sites for water infiltration in the concrete. Their inner portions cannot be removed at this point. So there you have it, my approach to encasing steel beams in concrete.
That depends on the concrete, as well as weather conditions, and the load the concrete would be subjected to. Concrete gains strength over time and the usual benchmarks are 7 days, and 28 days. At 28 days concrete has usually cured to nearly its maximum strength. For a concrete footing in a residential environment say a deck or home the concrete will usually cure for a minimum of three days before the formwork is removed and the rest of the structure is built. For a commercial or civil project the curing is subject to the engineers discretion.
It is the grade of concrete which indicates the strength of concrete after 28 days curing. M #) means the strength of concrete after 28 days of curing will be 30 N/mm2 .
minimum curing period of concrete is 21 days and maximum is 28 days
In reference to concrete, bottom forms can be removed once the item is dried and set. After 7 days, strength is built in the product and it is able to be used without bottom support forms.
You should wait a minimum of 28 days before you seal concrete. If you pour your concrete in summer, than a minimum of 14 days is acceptable. If you seal concrete any quicker, there is a chance moisture will be trapped inside.
The grade of the concrete means the concrete compression resistance after 28 days. It is done in Newtons per square millimetre. A concrete of Grade C30 means that the concrete will have a compresion resistance (withstanding a compression) of 30 N/mm2 per square millimetre in 28 days.
Concrete attains 60% of its strength in 18 days it may take a full year for all chemical reactions to cease and attain its full strength
curing time of concrete 14-28 days
the strength that it has gained is the main thing, but usually 5 to 7 days as a rough guide.
It is generally safe to drive on new concrete after 3 days, but it is recommended to wait at least 7 days to ensure it has fully cured and hardened.
28 days is the usual cure time for structural concrete. For street pavements and driveways made with 6-Sack concrete, 3 days of cure will support a car, but 7 to 10 days is required for it to support trucks. All concrete continues to cure forever, as long as moisture is present.