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Well, it depends on what you mean by saying the 'gears grind in reverse'...If the noise is while you are trying to shift INTO reverse, and if your Saab is around the 1995 vintage, then it is a common problem caused by the stretching of the non-adjustable clutch linkage cable:

The 1995 Saab (and maybe a year either side of it) used a cable from your clutch pedal to the clutch arm off the transmission. As it gets older it stretches. Reverse is the gear that will start grinding first as the cable stretches and the clutch is not actually being fully dis-engaged. Eventually the grinding will get bad enough you will have trouble shifting into reverse, and then start having grinding when shifting into 1st gear too. At least that's what I experienced.

You might be able to buy 6 months if you are a little handy, but making a "shim" out of a fender washer. Take a fender washer and cut a slit in it, wide enough that you can slip it over the internal metal cable of your clutch cable where it goes through the metal arm out of your transmission. Put it on the side toward the front of the car, between the 'ball' end and the metal arm. (You will have to also bend the washer into a semi-circle shape.) This will in effect shorten the cable, because you will have moved the arm about 1/8 inch closer to the firewall. When I did this my grinding disappeared.

But it's a stopgap. 6 months after I did this the cable started to stretch again, A LOT, very quickly, and within one day's commute snapped completely, stranding me and I had to have the car towed.

The REAL solution is to replace your clutch cable NOW before it stretches so far it breaks. If you have a dealer do this, there is an engineering change that will have them put TWO washers in place instead of the ONE washer that was originally stock...somewhat postponing the trouble from occurring again. It's pricey, take a big wallet.

This was a design flaw...it is the only cable operated clutch I am aware of that had NO provisions for adjusting the length of the cable! SAAB eventually realized it was a poor design, and by the time they came out with the 9-3 model they converted to using a hydraulic clutch instead of a cable clutch. (I'm not sure when this change was done...maybe in the 97 model year, but that's a guess on my part.)

good luck,

Paul H.

PS: I was told by the dealer my clutch had more pedal pressure than it should have, which made the problem appear quicker. They said it was due to a part that was not lubricated properly when the clutch had earlier been replaced, and they could fix the problem but it would involve as much labor as a clutch job, so I should have the clutch replaced at the same time. Their estimate was over $2000 to do this work...I sold the car before it became a problem again.

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