Chevrolet

The pickup coil in the distributor? !976 should be an HEI distributor. Take the cap off, unplug the wires going to the distributor, remove the rotor and the pickup coil is under the rotor and held in place with two screws.

Van

First you have to find out where he is.

Open the cover, count the teeth on the big gear ( the ring gear ) next count the teeth on the small gear ( the pinion gear). Divide the big gear by the little gear and that is your ratio.

I think you are looking for the slave for the clutch? It is bolted on the driver side of the transmission. Remove the hyd. line then the retaining bolts. Install the new one, bolt it up then put the line on, you may leave the bolts a bit loose to aid with the the hyd. line alignment. Once everything is tight, open the bleeder screw, mach sure you have a good level in the reservoir. If it does not bleed the air off by gravity alone you may need to force the issue. Two people are required for this, with the bleeder tight push the clutch in, with the pedal held in that position open the bleeder, after air escapes re-tighten the bleeder, now the clutch pedal can be released, continue until only fluid comes out of bleeder.

yes

There are two locations you can look. One is on the fender near the battery in the power distribution center panel, the other is the fuse panel on the side of the dash on the driver side, you must have the door open to access this panel.

They used a few of them. Open the cover, count the teeth on the big gear ( the ring gear ) next count the teeth on the small gear ( the pinion gear). Divide the big gear by the little gear and that is your ratio.

It is located near the air filter inline with the air flow to the motor. Unplug the two plugs one is the mass air flow senor the other is the air intake temp senor. Loose the clamps on the air intake hose both ends and remove hose. The mass air flow senor is a grid looking deveice, you should be looking at it on the air filter end of the hose.

It means that if the product is or becomes defective as a result of the workmanship in the production or as a result of a defect in the material, then the manufacturer will replace or repair the goods.

Acura & Honda Vehicles.any acura or honda?does it work on some and not some?

most now take six with a filter

Remove the fuel line from the front of the carburetor by using a 5/8" wrench on the line fitting and a 1" wrench on the carburetor nut. Next remove the 1" nut from carburetor. There will be a spring and the filter. Note the placement and direction of filter, it has been awhile ,but it should be filter hole towards carburetor, spring, nut. There may or not be a rubber check valve in the new or old filter both styles work in will work. They only made two sizes of filter then a shorter one for two barrel carbs about an 1" and one but 2" for four barrel carbs.

There is an inexpensive tool they sell in auto stores that will help you with that. It slips in and releases the retaining clips, so the lines can be removed. Be careful the line is under pressure and will squirt a small amount of fuel out of it until pressure drops a rag will catch it well then dry the rag out by lying in out flat until dry as a gas soaked rag in a ball can be combustive.

1987 was the cross over year for these. If you have a fuel injected engine it is in the fuel tank. If you have a carb model it is located ( from the driver seat ) on the front right side of the engine at the bottom of the engine. There is a trick to holding the push rod up on these. There is a short bolt in the front of the engine near the fuel pump that you will remove, install a longer bolt in the hole to pinch the push rod tight, change out pump. remove long bolt and install short bolt. hole must have short bolt or it will leak oil excessively. The only purpose of this hole is to aid in fuel pump change.

180, to 210. Anything above that should be considered over heating, and requires attention.

your front diff is just about stuffed

the 283 was the one of the first engines to achieve 1 hp: 1 ci

however there's many different types of 283

you can expect anywhere from 200-315 hp depending on the accessories and all that good stuff. but without the smog you will get 283+

You would have to find out what state the vehicle was registered in (which you can do through services such as Carfax), then you would have to contact the Department of Motor Vehicles for the state the vehicle is registered in - however, this is no guarantee that the information wouldn't be confidential, and wouldn't require a court order for them to release it to you - you'll need to contact the appropriate DMV office for an answer on that.

It is on the front snout of the crankshaft behind the timing chain cover. It bolts to the front side of the engine block. In order to replace it, one would have to remove the water pump, harmonic balancer/crank pulley, and timing cover on front of engine just to access the pump. Then the oil pan would have to be removed to access and remove the oil pick tube.

It is a heavy duty 3/4 ton truck.

Ford was the most popular in the U.S.

First, Chevy made the Caprice and Ford made the Capri. I have a 1985 Chevy Caprice Classic and it weights roughly 4500 lbs.

By 8100 I am guessing that you are referring to an 8.1L engine? To answer the question though your braking system is a power assisted system. Depending on application engine vacuum acts on a diaphragm in the brake boost canister helping to apply power to the actuation rod that is pushing on your master cylinder piston. The other application is a hydro boost set up where power steering fluid is routed to an accumulator and is used in much the same way. The brake pedal is pressed and a rod presses on the master cylinder piston, this opens a valve allowing pressure stored in the accumulator to act on the piston. In either application, when the engine dies there is no longer a supply of vacuum or power steering fluid to create pressure for the power assist. It feels like you have no brakes but you still do. Just press harder on the pedal.

1-6-5-4-3-2.