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The advantages of buying a used backhoe is the fact that you own it and can use it whenever you feel like it or deem it necessary. Also, you don't have to return it late if the job takes longer than necessary.

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Case construction online has brand new parts for sale and are available all day everyday to purchase parts. The website also provides used parts at a discount.

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OSHA does not require any type of qualifications to operate a backhoe, instead, it varies from state to state. Most states require a high school education, a class B commercial license and possibly some specific vocational training.

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It depends on the type of vehicle that you have. You have to remove the caliper which is what holds the brake pads and squeezes them against the rotor (the part the wheel bolts to) so that the friction stops the vehicle. Different manufacturers use different methods to mount the caliper. GM uses 2 bolts to hold the caliper in place using either a torx head bolt or a 3/8 hex bolt. Some Fords use two expandable pins to hold them in place that you can drive out of their slot with nothing more than a screwdriver or punch. After you get the caliper off you have to push the piston back into the caliper or the new pads won't fit in the space and go back over the rotor. Sometimes you can do this with a large pair of channel lock type pliers or with a special tool made for it but it has to be done. If the rotor has been scraping the metal plate of the old pads and and/or has grooves in it to any extent at all then they need to be "turned" on a brake lathe to true the surfaces or the new brakes will wear out very rapidly. If the rotors are severly worn and too thin then they will have to be replaced also. Best thing to do is talk to your guys at the auto parts store and they can explain that procedure to you.

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A case of backhoe parts would consist of many mechanical parts related to a backhoe. Some of these items may be bolts, nuts, shovel, bucket, teeth, and other mechanical or hydrolic parts.

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Try a bobcat dealer. They know you will come back for parts. So they will help you out.

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It should not take you long to do this. First, remove the tire. Second you will see two bolts behind the brake caliper (one on top and one down low). Once you've done this just gently pull it off, there is a metal tube so don't bend it. After you have done this you can either pull off the rotor to replace it or continue to change the pads. If you are looking from the backside, you will see two bolts with seethes these are your caliper mounting bolts. Just pull from where they are connected and it will slide right off. Almost there, the only thing that is holding the pads in are two pins that are weirdly shaped. Take a pair of pliers and pull them off. Finally slide the pads off and put it all back together. **BE SURE TO PUT BRAKE GREASE ON THE PINS BEFORE PUTTING THEM BACK OTHERWISE YOUR BRAKES WILL SQUEAK.** good luck

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There is a detailed instructional video listed here: http://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/sentra/brakes_suspension_tires.htm

Front brake pads on a 2001 Nissan Maxima equipped with a 1.8 liter engine require a 14mm socket to remove the caliper. After the caliper is removed the brake pads slide out from the sides from the grooved guides. Install in reverse order after pushing the piston into the caliper using a "C" clamp. If the rotor needs to be removed the a 19mm socket is required to remove the caliper bracket so the rotor can be taken off the hub. It is simply placed over the lug studs and may require a little help via a hammer to remove the old one because of rust or dirt. hope this helps.

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1. Open the tailgate.

2. Look closely at the side of the brake light cover where it is closest to the tailgate. It is black plastic.

3. You will see two roundish looking outlines in the black plastic (not the two outlines in the plastic that is the same color as your van). There is just enough of a crack to slide a small srewdriver into the crack.

4. Pop the little plastic "doors" up to reveal 10mm nuts with Philips heads.

5. Remove the bolt/screw from each of the two holes. The tail light cover will be loose, but it will not come out yet.

6. Find something small to pry with. It should be plastic or you might scratch your paint.

7. On the side of the van where the tail light cover is flush (the far opposite end of where the bolts were), push a small tool (screwddriver?) under the edge of the cover at the 4 o'clock position and pry at 90 degrees to the slope of the tail light. There is a peg that fits snuggly into a hole in the van. The peg is attached to the tail light cover. With a small flashlight, you should be able to see the peg after prying it up just a little. The peg will pop out and that will allow you to change the bulb.

8. To replace the cover, start by popping the peg back into the hole, then replace the two screws. Finish by snapping the screw covers shut.

Cheers,

Jon

& Brian

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Most hardware stores would have case backhoe parts, but they may not necessarily be very cheap. Certain websites may have used ones that are cheaper. It is just a matter of finding one in good condition.

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Your local library should have them available for your use.

They should also offer them at a licensing bureau or at least send you where you can get them

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The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

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The book says the intire hydraulic system holds 36 gallons and the tank holds 28 gallons. This is from the manual of a 1998 555E I purchased.

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all police agencies assign a case number, or OCA number to every uniform citation, incident report,accident report, etc. it is the only viable means to keep track of paperwork. for example, the agency i work for, all paperwork that is turned in is entered into a computer system called, laser fische which is used primarily for the officers to look up old cases when their court date is pending. it is also used when people come to the police dept. to obtain copies of a report they have filed. the secretary can look up the report or citation by name or OCA number.

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It isn't the easiest thing in the world to do. That being said, here we go.

READ THE WHOLE ARTICLE BEFORE PROCEEDING!! THIS IS CRITICAL!!!

First raise and block the loader arms as far as they will go. Use the safety lock on the loader arm if you have one. Otherwise cut a piece of heavy angle iron to the correct length and clamp it to the raised piston rod using heavy muffler style clamps, so it sits on top of the piston rod and contacts the upper rod arm bracket, and the lower part rests on the Piston Tube top.

Then you must remove the front radiator grille that protects the radiator. Then right below the grille bottom, you remove the lower rectangular front hydraulic pump cover on the front of the loader frame, which should have 4 big bolts on the sides holding it to the frame. The bolts do not have to be taken completely off as the cover usually has slotted attachment holes. Slide it out towards the front of the machine.

Then you loosen the bolts on the alternator brackets and remove the belt from the alternator and water pump pulleys.

Then its back to the hydraulic pump. Loosen the high pressure steel line fitting and remove it from the hydraulic pump. This is the hardest part of the job. It helps to have a rubber stopper to put in the tube or at the least a CLEAN rag to stuff in the tube to prevent it from leaking oil all over the place.

Then loosen the rubber hose clamp that holds on the hydraulic return hose to the hydraulic pump. You may not have to remove the hose, but you will have to also loosen the cross tube rubber hoses that come from the hydraulic tanks and form a Tee from which the return line to the pump hangs. These connecting hoses can be removed if you like, and you can remove the return line Tee completely, but the hydraulic oil will spill out unless you drain it first. Usually you can get the pump back far enough so you don't have to take the Tee off. Alternately you can stuff a CLEAN rag into the tubes/hoses to keep them from leaking.

When this is done, remove the two large bolts that hold the hydraulic pump to the loader frame. They are threaded right into the frame and have no nuts on them. Then slide the pump towards the front of the machine, wiggling and twisting as you go to loosen the flange of the pump which is tightly fit into the mounting hole. You may have to tap it with a drift to get it to loosen. CAUTION!! The pump body is SOFT ALUMINUM, and if you hit it hard you WILL BREAK IT! BE CAREFUL! Pumps are expensive. At this point you have removed the pump drive spline from the front pulley which connects to it to drive the pump.

There is a connector sleeve between the front pulley drive spline and the hydraulic pump drive spline. It looks like a tube. Make sure to remove and replace this spline coupler! It will ALWAYS be worn! It is made from very soft steel.

Check the condition of the front pulley spline and the hydraulic pump spline as well, and if worn, you will have to replace them. The pump spline can only be replaced with a new pump. {:o( Bad news, but true.

Now wiggle the old belt off the front pulley spline. Then get TWO, new, Gates Brand, V - belts, and wiggle them back over the front pulley spline. You only use one belt, but it is such a pain to change them, you wire the unused belt out of the way and let it wait patiently for the next time you need the belt replaced. It will be dry rotted a bit by then, but it will work for awhile until you can get the time to fix it. This is an old trick I learned the hard way. It lets you keep running if you are in a pinch.

When the belt is in and installed on the pulleys, and the spare wired out of the way, make sure to install the tubular drive coupler before doing anything else. DON'T FORGET THIS!!!. The pump won't run without it!

I have tried putting grease on the splines to make them last longer, as they move around a bit due to loose tolerances and some motor movement relative to the pump which is bolted to the frame. I have also put the removeable locktite, the blue stuff, on the splines, which seems to limit movement and still let them move when they have to. This has better results. NEVER use RED Locktite, as it will freeze the splines and break the pump!

Push the pump back in and reinstall the pump high pressure fitting first before tightening in the pump mounting bolts. The tubing nut usually is not the most perfect fit or perfectly aligned part, and it may take a little wiggling or twisting to get it aligned and started. Then you can install the pump mounting bolts and tighten them up EVENLY, so the pump doesn't bind going into the frame mounting hole. This can break the pump. Pump is soft aluminum, frame is steel.

Make sure to tighten up the fittings and hose clamps well, or they will leak air into the pump intake and ruin the pump. It is good practice to put multiple clamps of the highest quality and strength to do this. DO NOT USE CHEAP CLAMPS. It is a good policy to tighten the clamps using a 1/4 inch ratchet and socket to get them tight. If the clamps break when you do this, they are of poor quality and strength, so go get some good ones.

Make sure the hydraulic fluid is full and/or topped off at this point!

Put the front Hydraulic pump cover and radiator cover back on, and remove the loader safety lift strut. You should be back in business.

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Some of the parts of a Case backhoe include the engine, muffler, manifold, and hydraulic pump. Also there is a radiator, exhaust system, and a power steering pump.

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I have a 1986 Ford 550 backhoe and the transmission uses hydralic oil

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see http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=129706

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www.EquipmentTraderOnline.com They are the best source for buying and selling new and used heavy equipment. They are a classified ads website, but you can find some good stuff there. You can sell your own equipment, new or used. The equipment you can find or buy can be farm equipment, construction equipment, forrestry equipment, mining equipment, lawn care equipment, equipment trailers...

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Look for a hinged panel between the loader uprights. That is where the hydraulic reservoir fill port is located. Lift the hood for better access.

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I just did this yesterday

first you will probably need an impact wrench because the bolts you will be reaching are hard to loosen or tighten and are in an awkward position. Take your wheel off. (It will take an 18mm socket if you don't have the tire iron.) Then you will need to open the bleed valve on the back of the caliper. (The bleed valve will usually have a small black cap on it, the bleed valve looks like a nipple on top of a nut with a distinct whole in the center.) Open the bleed valve with a 12mm open ended wrench when you see brake fluid come out use the round end of the open ended wrench to pry between the two brake pads till there is enough space that they are not touching the rotor. With pressure still on the brake pads, close the bleed valve. There are two bolts on the back of the caliper, 18mm, take out the bottom one, then the top one and the caliper will come off. take off the brake pad sensor, it pulls strait back off the caliper take off the spring from the back of the caliper (the spring has two little hooks and arms that level the caliper out) take out the old brake pads put in the new brake pads then go in reverse order of directions to put back on.

IF YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE ROTOR before changing rotor I recommend buying a screw extractor, not very expensive and will save you a huge headache!!! WHILE THE CALIPER IS OFF take a 6mm Allen wrench and unscrew the rotor bolt. (It will be the only bolt on the rotor) tap the old rotor with a hammer or rubber mallet, because it may be frozen on. Put the new rotor on put your lug nuts in and tighten down hand snug to align your rotor. Put your rotor bolt back in and tighten down TIGHT (If you did not buy a BMW rotor you may not have a rotor bolt to put back in) put caliper back on, take lug nuts out, and put wheel back on

and now you have new brakes

PS don't forget to add more DOT 4 brake fluid.