Drywall

Drywall use should be avoided in the shower area if possible. Any are receiving a daily dose of constant wetting will be prone to moisture infiltration and deterioration. On ceilings that might only receive a smattering of water, any tape should be o.k., as long as the drywall is finished, primed and painted.

You will need three more bits of information.

1. How high are the walls.

2. What is the length of the room.

3. What is the width of the room.

Let me give you an example.

Height of walls = 8 ft.

Length = 50 ft.

Width = 20 ft.

Each piece of drywall is 8' X 4'.

In this case, the height of the walls exactly matches the height of the drywall; so you won't have to make any cuts in that dimension.

Figure out how many sheets you will need for the 50' walls.

50' / 4' = 12 1/2 pieces of drywall.

There are two of those 50' walls; so multiply by 2.

12 1/2 X 2 = 25 pieces.

Now for the short walls.

20' / 4' = 5 pieces of drywall.

Again, there are 2 short walls, so multiply by 2.

5 X 2 = 10 pieces of dry wall.

Add what you need for the long walls and short walls.

25 + 10 = 35 drywall sheets.

Answer: 35 drywall sheets.

Usually, there is drywall under the wallpaper. It is not difficult to remove the wallpaper (by steaming, or another method) to get to the basic drywall. Then, you can texture it and then paint it.

Drywall labour costs depend largely on where you do them. Labour costs across north America differ locally.

The best way is to find a stud in the wall and use screws. If your place of choice is not near a stud, then you simply use EZ Anchors. These are large thread hollow screws made in 4 sizes and in plastic or aluminium. They have a triple point for biting into drywall and are screwed in with a Phillips or Pozidrive screwdriver, When they are in, they fit flush to the wall and you can the insert a woodscrew or drywall screw and hang almost anything from them I have used 6 of these with L brackets for a bookshelf that holds over 100 pounds of books. Look in Home Depot screw section, they have these in 4 sizes, in packets of 4, 20 and 100. -Once you use these you will never use any other way.

Regular mud for first application and 'lite' for the next ones.

The difference is the thickness and the type of paper covering the gypsum.

DRYWALL 1/2 4X8 HAUSBAU CORPORATION HAS IT FOUR 5.38 AND LAST TIME I CHECKED HOMEDPOT IS WAS 5.69 AND LOEWS HAD IT AT 5.69 ALSO

Depends on how large. up to 6 inches square cut a piece of sheetrock the right thickness 8 inches square. on the back side, cut thru the paper 1 inch in all the way around. break the sheetrock and peel the 4 1 inch pieces off the front paper. This will leave you with a 6 inch square piece with a 1 inch border of paper Mud the 1 inch strip and apply to the hole. Smooth the strip and mud, Top coat the patch and sand. For larger holes, strips of wood, plywood prefered, 2 inches wide and as long as the sides of the hole can be placed behind the sheetrock and screwed in place. The piece of sheetrock filling the hole is then screwed in also, tape, mud and sand. For very large holes, you need to cut the hole back to the studs. Split down the middle of the stud and replace as much as needed in height. A plywood backer can be used here also at the top and bottom of the patch

Gemini coatings in El Reno Oklahoma has a laminate patch system. If you call them or email them, they can refer you to a local repair guy that has their system. You would be surprised what can be fixed. However, the cost can surpass the cost of a new top even if the backsplash can be saved. There are many epoxy base products on the market that can be colored and used as a filler. Edge damage demands creative repair.Surface damage can be fixed by insertion of same product or with tiles. mr odd job

Mice and rats...same difference. But they can and WILL eat through ANYTHING....cement...drywall...wood...ANYTHING....rats and mice have VERY LONG sharp teeth, and they are ALWAYS looking for something to "file" down their teeth. Actually it's very unhealthy for a rat or mouse to NOT file their teeth. Hope this answers your Q.

Depending on type of finish and your location. Here in the Pacific Northwest prices to finish is 50-75 cents a sq/ft.

The old labor intensive way of putting up walls had wet plaster attached to and around slats of wood (called lathing) where it dried into a wall.

The current technology uses large panels made of dry plaster like material called Dry Wall attached to wall studs by nail, screw or glue. Another name for Dry Wall is SheetRock. It should be kept dry. Once it gets wet, it loses its integrity and it is no longer viable. It is no longer Dry Wall or Wet Wall but it is Garbage.

Dry wall would technically be wet wall anyways considering how you need liquid to be able to make it. BTW, I am an 8th grader from 2017-2018 and will be in high school from2018-2019.

To the nearest board you'll need 21 boards. However, this is assuming complete flat surfaces, no cutting and waste

You use standard 1/2 inch drywall .

Yes, mesh type drywall tape usually has adhesive on one side.

In most areas it cost less than 50 c a square foot to buy.

All questions like this depend on the market you are in and where you are geographically. You haven't told us either one

PVA is not commonly used on drywall.

No, but it should be securely covered by heavy canvas dropcloths.