Drywall

Drywall was invented in the early 20th century. When it came into common use is a different story altogether.

In my experience (I'm an electrician who does a lot of remodel work) it isn't safe to assume that drywall was used in the construction of a house unless the house was built after about the mid 1960's.

I say "safe to assume" because I charge a heck of a lot more to do remodel work on plaster/lathe walls than on drywall.

Drywall was invented by US Gypsum around 1916 but was not used in home construction.

In 1945, after WW II, a main executive of US Gypsum was a neighbor of my parents, who were putting on a large addition to their home. US Gypsum provided the Gypsum board (as drywall was called at the time) and the instillation at no charge with the understanding they could use this for publicity.

Photographers were on site to take photos and a large article with color photos appeared in Home and Garden Magazine. The US Gypsum person who remained life long friends with my father said many times that that started them on the way to having houses built with Drywall. We lived in the outskirts of Chicago, which at the time was out in country. Following the war there was a huge building boom. Most of the homes in the area built in the late 40's and early 50's used drywall. My Grandfather was a contractor.

Depends on the area. Constructions costs vary by geographic location.

Scrape it very carefully with a broad wood chisel held almost parallel to the drywall. You may have to fill with some caulk or mud. -Alex ll makes an excellent filler for small areas of drywall.

yes you can roll on joint compound but that is usually done when you want a textured wall or cieling and does require a great deal of compound to use-- it is also a slow tedious process since the compound is thick and not so easily movable. If you are looking for a textured wall or cieling my advice is to first trowel the compound using a 1/4 inch toothed trowel and then roll it out with the texture roller. you cannot use a paint roller to roll out joint compound. There is a special textured vinyl roller for this purpose it looks like a roller created from a spool of wire.

best way to remove is take a stiff putty knife to break from wall, will probably do a little damage. after removing all the baseboard scrape off any remaining glue. then to make it look the best mudd where needed sand then paint. been doing maintance for 9 years know and i haven't been able to find a better solution. Good luck

If you drywall on 16" on-centre studs, with sheet length perpendicular to the studs, and screw the two outside length edges at 6" spacing (as it should be) and the two interior studs at 12" spacing, the answer is 48 drywall screws per 4'x8' sheet.

apply the mud with a drywall trowel into the joints (you can get premixed mud) and press the tape into the mud. cover the tape with another layer of mud. let dry and sand it smooth. it may require more than one layer of mudding and sanding.

For inside corners use the same method, but fold the tape 90 degrees into the corner.

For outside corners nail up prefab metal or plastic corners and cover with mud, then sand.

hope this helps!

There are several types of paint you can use depending on the result you would like to achieve and the area you are covering. Matt, eggshell, satin and gloss all can be used on drywall with different finishes.

Yes and no. Short answer is you need to apply a bonding agent to the durock so the plaster will stick. Blueboard is chemically treated to accept plaster, durock is not so it will just fall off without a bonding agent.

It depends on your local area (check with your building inspector) however, as a rule of thumb:

Space screws a maximum 12" apart for ceilings and 16" apart on walls.

The best way to dry wood for carving, is to do it slowly, unless you have a drying kiln. Most wood for carving walking sticks has a general rule that it needs to be dried for at least a year for every 1" diameter of the walking stick.

Standard drywall weighs about 3.4 lbs per sq ft per inch thickness. Water resistant drywall (greenboard) weighs about 3.9 lbs. per sq. ft. per inch thickness. Firecode C drywall weighs about 4.2 lbs. per sq. ft. per inch thickness. These are approximations, as the ratio of core vs. covering varies for different thicknesses, thereby varying the exact weights. So, 1/2" thick standard drywall weighs 3.4 x 0.5, or 1.7 lbs per sq. ft. 4' x 8' x 1/2" thick sheet weighs 1.7 x 32 s.f. = 54 lbs. 4' x 10' x 1/2" thick sheet weighs 1.7 x 40 s.f. = 68 lbs. 4' x 12' x 1/2" thick sheet weighs 1.7 x 48 s.f. = 82 lbs. 5/8" thick standard drywall weighs 3.4 x 0.625 = 2.2 lbs per sq. ft. 4' x 8' x 5/8" thick sheet weighs about 70 lbs. 4' x 10' x 5/8" thick sheet weighs about 88 lbs. 4' x 12' x 5/8" thick sheet weighs about 105 lbs.

Depends on the wall sizes of each job. I always found it faster working with 4x8 sheets personally.

That all depends on how drywall footage is used. If it is an easy flat cracker jack box house you would charge just about 16 cents a foot. What ever you decide to choose to charge for the hanging you normally match that price for the taping, and about 600+ for the spray and texture.... Even more if they want the wall PCV'd

Wipe it off with a damp cloth. After, wipe your leather with a cloth with a bit of olive oil on it.

Most states will have their own rules about requirements for becoming a licensed drywall contractor. The requirements typically include a certain amount of time practicing the trade, as well as some schooling. There will also likely be a license exam you will need to pass.

There are basically 2 jobs in this area, Drywallers (installers, who only screw it up in place ) and Tapers ( who only tape, mud and sand ). Very few pros do both. ( although they all know how to, they have specialised in one or the other)

Drywall use should be avoided in the shower area if possible. Any are receiving a daily dose of constant wetting will be prone to moisture infiltration and deterioration. On ceilings that might only receive a smattering of water, any tape should be o.k., as long as the drywall is finished, primed and painted.

You will need three more bits of information.

1. How high are the walls.

2. What is the length of the room.

3. What is the width of the room.

Let me give you an example.

Height of walls = 8 ft.

Length = 50 ft.

Width = 20 ft.

Each piece of drywall is 8' X 4'.

In this case, the height of the walls exactly matches the height of the drywall; so you won't have to make any cuts in that dimension.

Figure out how many sheets you will need for the 50' walls.

50' / 4' = 12 1/2 pieces of drywall.

There are two of those 50' walls; so multiply by 2.

12 1/2 X 2 = 25 pieces.

Now for the short walls.

20' / 4' = 5 pieces of drywall.

Again, there are 2 short walls, so multiply by 2.

5 X 2 = 10 pieces of dry wall.

Add what you need for the long walls and short walls.

25 + 10 = 35 drywall sheets.

Answer: 35 drywall sheets.

Usually, there is drywall under the wallpaper. It is not difficult to remove the wallpaper (by steaming, or another method) to get to the basic drywall. Then, you can texture it and then paint it.

Drywall labour costs depend largely on where you do them. Labour costs across north America differ locally.

The best way is to find a stud in the wall and use screws. If your place of choice is not near a stud, then you simply use EZ Anchors. These are large thread hollow screws made in 4 sizes and in plastic or aluminium. They have a triple point for biting into drywall and are screwed in with a Phillips or Pozidrive screwdriver, When they are in, they fit flush to the wall and you can the insert a woodscrew or drywall screw and hang almost anything from them I have used 6 of these with L brackets for a bookshelf that holds over 100 pounds of books. Look in Home Depot screw section, they have these in 4 sizes, in packets of 4, 20 and 100. -Once you use these you will never use any other way.

Regular mud for first application and 'lite' for the next ones.

The difference is the thickness and the type of paper covering the gypsum.