John Deere

Joe Diffie sings the awesome country song "John Deere Green".

The yellow deck STX38's were made from 1989 to 1993
The black deck STX 38's were made from 1994 to 1997

Inventing the world's first self polishing steel plow and starting a company with quality equipment.

Write down the number and take it to your local John Deere dealer and they can tell you some information. Anything from lawn mowers to 4-wheel drive tractors made by John Deere can have the year found out by having their serial numbers researched.

John Deere made two of them for the 318 John Deere, a Model 47 which is a "2 stage snowblower", AND very expensive if you ever do find one for sale, and the other one is a Model 49, which is as "single stage snowthrower" that's not worth much in deep or wet snow. Bercomac makes 2 stage snow blowers that fit JD and many others, I'd check with them first and also find out if there's a dealer near you so you can go see for yourself, on the Internet it's: Bercomac.com

Jack up the tractor wheel that is flat. Put a block of wood or jack stand or something under the axle so it doesn't fall on you. Pry the yellow plastic center cap off the center hub of the wheel. There is a clip on the axle. It is either an E-clip or a snap ring. If it is and E-clip, you can pry it off with a screwdriver. If it is a snap-ring, you will need snap-ring pliers, which is a specialty tool that you can buy at your JD dealer or at the auto parts store. Once you get the retaining clip off, the wheel should pull right off the axle, assuming it is a front wheel. The rear should pull off also, but sometimes if not lubed, the wheel will rust to the rear axle shaft and be a nightmare to remove. Also, the rear axle will have a key (a piece of square steel stock) in it. The axle shaft and wheel hub are both slotted for the keyway. The key locks the wheel to the axle and allows the axle to "drive" the wheel. Don't lose the key! Take the wheel and tire to your local JD dealer, tire shop, or wherever and have them fix it for you.

Now, my suggestion is this. If you had to ask me this question, then you shouldn't even be trying to attempt this task without someone teaching you how to do this at least once. Call your JD dealer (or lawn and garden repair shop) and have them come out and do a service call. It might cost a few bucks more, but you'll be glad you did! Depending on what is wrong with the tire that caused the leak, if the mechanic is any good at all, he may likely be able to fix it right on the tractor without removing the wheel and tire.

You must back out three bolts which hold plastic cover over left side spindle pulley first. After cover is removed (or at least two rear bolts are removed allowing cover to be pulled up ) work belt onto this pulley and reinstall bolts on cover. Then, you must loosen idler pulley next to pulley you just placed belt on as to thread belt onto idler pulley which has a metal fence mounted on pulley shaft to keep belt on this idler. Belt must then be threaded around on/off pulley and right spindle pulley and drive pulley.

John Deere 2305 and 2320 Compact Utility Tractors are assembled at John Deere's Augusta, Georgia (USA) factory.

1973

The 108 is an 8hp Briggs & stratton tractor made from about 1980 to 1986. It was replaced by the JD 130. Your JD dealer should be able to look up the microfilm listing for the tractor and give you an exact year of manufacture from the serial number.

The Scott brand was made by John Deere from 1999-2002. They produced push mowers and riding mowers and a 2554 medium duty Garden tractor with a Ground engaging capable (plowing, tilling and heavier work) tuff-torq K66 transmission. They also made a great line of reel mowers.

I am including a link (see below) where the manuals are available for download.

The John Deere 425 was made from 1993-2001.

100 dollars if its in great condition

how do I remove the seat bracket from a lt133 john deere mower

The deck must be slipped beneath the machine from the left, the lift lever locked down and the rear hangers and front hanger plate attached. The belt will take take a 90 degree twist with the front part to the left side.

There are manuals around online that you will need to download to keep for permanent reference as there are 3 adjustments- 1) cutting height, 2) side-to-side level, 3) front-to-back tilt. I will answer #1 here and add a few hints. If you need info on #2 & #3, just reply back & I will dig these up. (saving my time now in case you arent watching this question). First, a few notes: 1) NEVER adjust to where the deck wheels touch the ground. The wheels are to ride 1/4" off the ground. 2) The long lever to your left which raises & lowers the deck has 3 settings. 1- Fully back toward you which has the deck raised (called transport mode). 2- Halfway down which is the normal mowing mode (called float mode) 3- Fully away from you which sets the deck fully on the ground. This mode is ONLY used for VERY rough terrain where the deck risks getting pushed into "transport" or "full up" mode & getting stuck there. 3) On front-to-back tilt, the front should be 1/2inch lower than the back for least damage to the grass. Ok-now to adjust "cutting" height. 1) Park on a level, flat surface. 2) Pull the deck lever fully back toward you to put the deck into "transport" mode. 3) twist the "cutting" height knob (just below your seat) to the height you want the grass cut. Has choices by 1/2" increments from 1" to 3.5". The deck in "transport" mode is 4". 4) Lower the deck lever to the midway/"floating" mode point. 5) Adjust each deck wheel with its own peg & pin to have at least 1/4" clearance from ground. Thats it for "cutting height" adjustments. Again reply back if you still need to know the other settings. Peace! Deb

The 3020 has 63.1 drawbar horsepower and 71.4 PTO horsepower.

I have one that is a 175 Hydro and it uses an AM101054 which is very common for Kawasaki engines. I got one at the local lawn equipment shop for $10.

1976

Remove the castle nuts from the drag link. If it doesn't drop right out, thread the castle nuts at the top of the threads, and tap them out with a hammer.

Not nearly enough info to answer this question. For one, John Deere doesn't use one nomenclature exclusively for one piece of equipment. Also, we don't know the model year, overall condition, what attachments and accessories you have with it and the condition of those, engine hours, etc. You'd be better off calling John Deere dealership to have someone come and appraise it.

The John Deere 855 has a three cylinder in it. This is for the John Deere 855 compact utility trailer PC2054. You can buy these used or new parts online at different prices then you can from the actual manufacturer themselves.

As far as I can tell, there is no record on John Deere's middle name either at Deere & Co.'s website or in the book John Deere's Company by Wayne G. Broehl. Anyone out there that can help?

It depends partly on the model, but...

Smaller (garden tractors and lawn mowers) are starting by pushing in the break and turning the ignition key. They will not start if the PTO is on or the driver is not sitting on the seat.

Larger machines (agricultural use) are started by turning the ignition key, then setting the engine to 1200 rpm and letting it idle (no load) for about two minutes (four if cold outside) to warm up the engine (turbocharger needs the heat). You do not need to hold in the clutch or breaks. They will not start if the driver is not sitting on the seat, the PTO is on or if it is in gear.

the first john deere 3130 had 89 horsepower with the last of them having about 95 horsepower according to the books but most them that tested had 100+ horsepower