John Deere

The best place to get information for a for a LT150 is in the technical manual. Manuals can be purchased at your local John Deere Dealer. If you are on good terms with the service department they may be able to let you look at the service manual to make sure it has the information that you need.

If you are talking engine oil drain plug, it may be located in two locations. On the L/H or R/H side at the bottom of the engine there will be (or should be) a small pipe with a drain plug attached to it, usually this is located by the engine oil filter. I can't remember off hand where the trans oil drain plug is, but I know if you contact your local ( or closest ) JD dealer, they will be more than happy to tell you where the drain plug is for the trans oil, with no cost to you. Hope this helps!

The cost of a John Deere tractor loader will range depending on the quality one is looking for. The cheaper models may only cost thirty-thousand dollars while the top-range models can cost well over one-hundred-thousand dollars.

The John Deere was a model of a farm tractor made from 1964 to 1972. In total, approximately 184,879 were built. This was the most popular tractor of its time.

The regular deck on a 325 is 48" with three blades (You can only buy blades in sets of three from John Deere.) The standard blade is 16.6 inches in length.

A tractor works basically the same way your car does except for at a larger scale and with more power. A tractor also runs on diesel, which powers a 4- to 8- cylinder engine which powers the rear wheels/PTO/hydraulics which make a tractor the useful piece of machinery it is today.

The closest answer I could find was for a regular 1010 crawler without the dozer blade, which weighs 6900 lbs [or 3129 kg].

The short answer is yes. the John Deere 100 series mowers are made in Greeneville Tennessee. this is a highly automated factory employing up to 800 people at the peak of the season. the lawn tractors are shipped directly from the factory to dealers and to big-box stores. the units are identical and all use Briggs and Stratton engines.

John Deere did not create the Waterloo Boy tractor, they bought the company in 1918 after they failed to invent their own reasonably priced tractor.

I changed the drive belt and idler pully,now only one back wheel works.how do I fix it

Move the seat ahead and it's the yellow knob unscrew and check while setting on threads.

The inventions of Deere's steel plow and McCormick's reaper encouraged the settlement of the western plains by making agriculture more efficient. It also helped in the sustenance of people who live in the western plains.

If it is the same as the height adjustment for a 160, 170, or 180 there is a knob connected to a rod that slides up and down along a plastic gate with numbers on it. If yours is like this the spring doesn't provide tension to the rod but merely places side pressure to keep it from falling to the right out of the slot. To install the spring take the black plastic gate with the numbers on it off the mower (it's held with a screw at the top and a tab at the bottom). Next place the short end of the spring (there is a longer and shorter end to it) in the hole in the fender right next to the screw hole that holds the black plastic gate in place. Then take the long end of the spring and insert it into the groove at the end of the plastic gate. Keeping the spring in the groove insert the tab into the opening with the rod sticking up through the gate and push the gate into the hole and secure it with the screw. The big thing that throws everyone is that they think the spring holds tension on the rod, it doesn't. The spring just runs the length of the gate and crowds the rod to the side.

I just fixed the brakes on my GX75. I removed the linkage from the transaxle, then I removed the nylock nut that held the brake lever on the transaxle. I had to remove the braket that the brake lever rides in also. On either side if the threaded stud that held the brake lever were a couple of pins that should float freely. Mine did not. soak with PB Blaster or some other penatrating oil. Go do something else for a while. I would strike mine with a hammer and the put vice grips on as tight as they could go, with the hangles pointing out away from the transaxle. I would wiggle up and down and add more oil. They were very, VERY hard to get out, be patient. I chucked them up in my cordless drill and gave them a spin with some sandpaper. Then I greased them up and replaced. I put a big blob of grease on top to both lube the brake lever and keep moisture out. After reassebling everything I tightened the nylock nut until I felt the brakes drag a little, then backed off till the mower rolled freely. They work great now.

That depends on where you live, what condition it's in, if it has a FEL, backhoe, attachments etc. 400hrs is great considering they were built between 1990 and 1999, but there's a lot more to it than that. A safe range is $8K - $16K for a 955 and if it's in good shape with 400hrs and a FEL, you're probably in the upper end of that, again, depending on the market in your area.

the first two numbers is the year last two should be the size cut

Considering the million of products that serial number might be for...try taking it to your local John Deere dealer along with the model number and I'm sure he can help tell you everything you want to know.

here is a diagram that might be helpful: https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/featbene/L120_L130_48_3N1deck.pdf

Put the mower up on a wooden block to get the wheel off the ground. Pry off the plastic bolt cover, remove the bolt with a #12 metric socket I believe, remove the wheel. Unbolt the gear drive from behind the wheel and install it on the replacement wheel.

Gibson Model D tractors were manufactured for less than 10 years after the end of WW2. The fact that are many still in daily use attests to their utility and durability. The simplicity of design and use of industrial quality components makes repairs simple compared to other tractors.

The value of a tractor depends on its use, Originality, Condition, completeness, implements included, upgrades or accessories location and market conditions. Intended for utility work around the estate of farm, originality and appearance are of far less importance (value) than operating condition upgrades, implements included etc.

The same tractor intended for show or to run in a parade two three times a year would favor completeness, appearance, originality, and the ability to run slowly for a few hours.

Value then depends on further information and intentions of the buyer.

I have paid $50 for an incomplete parts tractor because what was included was useable. Fifteen years ago I gladly gave $200 for a model D with 3 rotted tires but otherwise complete. Stuck, yes, but easily freed up.

It is still in daily use.

Which model do you have? Please provide details regarding tractor model and what it does when you try to start it. Is everything fresh? ....fuel, oil, air filter, spark plug, battery? Will it crank over? If so, does it try to fire (start)? Let me know and I'll try to guide you through.

Best Regards,

Bob Lituri

lituri54@aol.com

The ticker symbol for Deere & Co. is DE and it is traded on the New York Stock Exchange.
DE

You must disconnect the rubber coupling between the engine and input shaft to the transmission. There is three bolts that connect the coupling to the engine, they are threaded right into the crankshaft. The remaining three are bolts with nuts that connect the coupling to the drive shaft. You must completely remove the coupling in order to change the alternator/water pump belt. I just changed mine, however I had the radiator out due to head gasket and water pump replacement. I think you should be able to do this from underneath the tractor.