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The genre for Lawn Boy by Gary Paulsen is variously listed as "realistic fiction" and "comedy and humour".
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There are four main factors to look at with Artificial Grass, especially if you are looking for the best artificial grass qualities. First the quality of the yarn (PE, PP, Nylon), then the face weight of the yarn (how much yarn there is), and the then the quality of the backings.
The best artificial grass I've seen around, especially including price comparisons etc., is at www.purchase-green.com. They have a 90 oz. face wight product with a premium non-infilled yarn and 40 oz. backings. So the total weight is 130 oz. I don't think there is a heavier product out there. I know the backings and yarn are premium quality and the thatch (simulated shorter grass) is polyethylene and nylon.
They also have spec sheets on each of their product pages like at the following:
http://www.purchase-green.com/artificial-synthetic-lawn/natures-sod-premier-sf.html
Be sure to scroll to the bottom of the page.
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Usually the city owns 10 ft in from the curb. Saying that, the property owner has to maintain the grass and sidewalk...ie mowing and keeping the walk clean and snow and ice free. Plus if the sidewalk gets broken up, you have to fix it...
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In general, it's best to water your grass deeply and infrequently rather than a little bit at a time. If you water too frequently, the grass won't develop a deep root system and will die out if there is an extended drought or watering restriction imposed. By watering once a week or less, you are training your grass to develop much deeper roots that allow it to do better in periods without water. Do not water in the heat of the day, because a large part of the water just evaporates without helping your grass at all. It is a big waste of water. Many areas of the country even ban watering in the afternoon hours for this very reason. Water in the early morning, or in the evening, when it is cooler and there is less direct sun. The Better Lawn and Turf Institute also offers good information on lawn watering. Bob Vila offers this advice on lawn watering. The Turfgrass Resource Center has this guide to watering new turfgrass sod. All types of grasses benefit from high quality soil. Use an organic lawn fertilizer to improve the quality of your soil long term. Need a mower or other lawn and garden supplies? Visit Clean Air Gardening.
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Depending upon the type of grass, and the weather in your area. For example in hot Central Texas, for St. Augustine we water our grass twice a week. We try to make sure that it gets at least 1.5" a week. Also, it is important to watch the leaves of your grass. If they are folding or curling up, they are short of water. Water them the next morning. You can place used soup cans in various places on your grass to measure how many inches of water is your grass getting. Please also be mindful of the compaction and slope of your soil. If it is compacted and slopy, then water is very gradually so the water can seep down deep, in order to get deep root growth.
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A house that is dug into a hill (like a cave) that is covered in sod to insulate the inside. The opening to it is usually surrounded by split logs.
here is a picture! :)
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Killing the moss in lawns is simply a short term measure.
Moss in Lawns is probably one of the least understood of all grass lawn problems. Treating or killing the moss is not the answer. Moss is a sign that something is basically wrong with your lawn. Too often, gardeners attempt to kill moss in lawns without tackling the problem that actually causes it. They are helped to this decision by the huge range of 'moss killers' available at local garden centres.
There are two basic moss killers for lawns that are available - Ferrous Sulphate and Dichlorophen. One or the other is usually incorporated into typical lawns Feed and Mosskiller combinations. The latter is also available as a ready to use 'Moss Gun' for small patches. Neither do anything by way of treating the basic problem of moss in lawns. They simply kill the moss which is there. It will return
If you really want to eradicate moss from your lawn, then you have to find out the actual problem that is causing it, rather than just treating it. The reasons are various, but not too difficult to isolate.
They can be one or several of the causes outlined below
Generally, lawns that are well maintained - which includes being well fed, cut properly, aerated and not allowed to develop thatch - then the problems which result in moss will not occur in the first place. Moss can rarely compete with strong growing grass in lawns. It is allowed to develop and take a hold when the grass growth is weak. Get the grass growing properly and the likelihood is that your lawn will not suffer from moss problems.
Treating small areas of lawn moss can be carried out with a moss killer containing Dichlorophen. After a couple of weeks, you can rake out the dead moss and re-seed. If you need to use a feed for the area, it is better to feed the whole lawn in order to avoid patchiness!
Assuming that you have inherited a lawn with a moss problem, you should carry out the following maintenance regime - rather than simply treating the moss which is there. (The details of all operations are to be found elsewhere in this section. Quick fixes just do not work, other than to kill the moss which is present.) Unless you tackle the underlying problem, the moss will return!
If by the autumn, your lawn is growing well, then most if not all of the moss in your lawn will have been controlled or even eradicated. Further spot treatments may be needed, or maybe even a full treatment for most lawns again the following spring.
Simply treating or killing the moss in your lawn is not the answer.
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Scotts Lawn service gets mixed reviews because sometimes their products aren't meant for your lawn. You should speak with a professional about what products are best for your area.
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Grass will grow in most any soil condition, but not clay. Grass is a plant, and it needs soil to be porous enough that water will be able to flow through; thus it will not grow in pure clay. However soils that have a mixture of loam and clay, or sand and clay, or loam and sand, will be suitable enough for grasses to grow in. But there are many species of grasses, and each species have their own specific conditions they like to grow in or grow best in.
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16.667 yards of concrete in a 30 ft x 30 ft x 6 in
there are 27 cubic feet of concrete in one yard IE: 27 square ft, 12 inches thick or 54 square ft, 6 inches thick
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Round-up, but the grass needs to be activly growing.
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I am 13 years old, And I want a job, How old do I have to be to get one?
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The ashes after the fire would contain a lot of nutrients so the grass would take the nutrients and grow quickley.
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Yes, but you will have better results if you kill your existing grass now with glyphosate (RoundUp, yes I know they are evil but it works) and wait until late summer.
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Menards does sell sod but not every day. In our area, Menards posts signs when they have sod for sale.
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The best time is in fall after the heat of the summer has passed and many of the diseases and pest associate with our turf grasses are at the lowest. This allows for you to water the turf less while getting is established because of less evaporation that may occur if laid during our hot summer months.
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You question is confusing. Horticulturists are the best people to give advice in gardening. I would assume from your qustion shoulod read "who would be the one..."? Answer Horticulturists are learned people with college training they will give you the theory. If you want good practical advice ask a gardener.
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Some types tolerate shade better than others. Fescue does well in shade. Go to your local garden center for help.
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Between 14 and 60 cents per square foot, labor only.