Lawn Care

No...there is no 'nutrition' in used motor oil. It's petroleum. Fertilizers work by adding nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil. Besides, why on earth would you want to spread that on your lawn? Doing so causes it to leach into the ground, the water supply, and will probably kill whatever you might have growing. Petroleum is toxic to plants, so keep it far away from any growing things. Used motor oil also picks up heavy metals from the engine, especially old engines, so it's even worse.

Algae makes swimming pool water green. Here is advice and input: Your pool water turned green most likely because of an algae bloom in your pool water. When you shocked the pool and added the copper algaecide you might have oxidized the copper in the algaecide. What I would do if I were you is take a sample of the water (about 16oz.) to your local pool store and have them test for metals. Another possibility is that there is metal in the water, which will react with chlorine and turn green or brown. Many parts of the country have naturally high levels of metal in their water, so this can be a problem any time replacement water is added to a pool. Use Natural Chemistry's MetalFree or another chellating agent. Algae is probably at the bottom of your pool had same problem the bottom of my pool was brown. I went to pool store and they told me to do the following: raise pH above 8 test pH. next 1 lb of yellow out and 1 lb of shock run filter, then brush and then vacuum. next 12 hrs later 1/2 bag of shock. Next 12 hrs later 1/2 bag shock. Test your chemicals run filter brush and vacuum and you should be good to go my pool is above ground 4,500 gallons so talk to a pool store. Yellow out is shock by the way always read the product labels mixing the wrong chemicals together pose health risks. Your pool water is green because your PH is out of balance making your chlorine ineffective and your filtering system is not working correctly. Algae is certainly the cause of the green, but an imbalance of pH and/or alkalinity is why you have algae in the first place (while there is adequate chlorine). Very high or low pH significantly decreases the effectiveness of chlorine. I suggest that you test and adjust your pH and alkalinity first (take a water sample to your local pool store and have them test it if needed). Once those are balanced, shock the water and use an algaecide. Run the filter 24 hrs per day and vacuum the dead algae debris often - you'll also have to clean the filter almost daily. Once the green starts to disappear, add a blue clarifier to help clear the dead algae from the water and eliminate any cloudiness. The oxidation rate of your chlorine is affected by the pH level. ppm of your chlorine is just a quantity and the oxidation rate is the quality of the water. To properly control a pool you should use a pool controller that measures the oxidation rate or ORP. The absolute fix for algae bloomed pool: DRAIN , ACID WASH and REFILL. Acid Washing an In Ground Pool: Also called a drain & acid clean. An acid wash becomes necessary if the pool has turned into the "black lagoon". This may occur if the winterizing process is not done properly, or if the pool has been stagnant for a period of time so that algae has taken over. If you notice scaly, man-phibian creatures splashing around out back, it's probably time to drain & acid clean. Our general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is: if you can see the bottom of the pool (the floor) then you can usually bring it back with chemicals, labor and extensive filtering. However , once a pool has turned dark green or even black , algae and mold spores have impregnated themselves into every porous depth of the pool surface and are difficult or impossible to remove by traditional cleaning and chlorinating methods. As a result the pool will continue to spawn new mold, algae and bacteria at an accelerated rate causing the pool to turn green quickly even though you may be vacuuming and chlorinating more. This will play havoc on your filter media such as sand ,cartridges or DE requiring frequent media changes to remove the contaminants. If the floor is not visible, the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the acid wash charge, and take much, much longer. Also, extensive algae blooms will permanently stain and adhere to plastered , concrete and gunite pools, making an acid wash desirable. An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster or concrete, exposing fresher , undamaged and clean material beneath. Therefore, it is ill-advised to make it an annual custom, which will accelerate the need for replastering. Most plaster coats (sometimes called whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2", so a few careful acid washes should not hurt. Pools can also be commercial strength bleach washed or high pressure washed if the effected area isn't that bad. Costs to acid wash and emptied pool range between 900.00 and 1200.00 in Maryland , Virginia and DC. If your pool is filled with contaminated water and debris, the cost to drain and acid wash may range 1600.00 to 2800.00 depending on the degree of contamination and the amount of non-drainable debris that must be removed and disposed of by manual labor. You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, mold , algae and bacteria but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains...an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement. If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily....changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer and save you a bundle in lost pool time , labor , filter media and chemicals. Acid is a dangerous substance. Pool company personnel are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location. In many states , permits may be required. If it is a clear green then it is copper, cloudy green is algae the best, safest, and cheapest way to remove the copper is by using Alum. The same alum used when making pickles, just look down the spice isle in the short bottles. So clean your pool so this does not happen to you, ok use cleaning product to clean it. If it get to bad get pool cleaner man to do it for you.

Improper drainage can cause major foundation problems and water damage. There are companies that will install French drains to pull water away from the foundation.

Any plant is a weed if it is growing in a place you don't want it to grow. Yes Ravenna Grass is invasive.

A sling blade was used to cut tall grass and weeds before the modern machinery was invented. The Kayser blade has a long handle and a person can use it to cut weeds and etc. on banks and hard to reach places. Answer Is the sling blade and the Kayser blade colloquial names for the sickle and the scythe? Answer I always heard them called sling blades growing up in Alabama but I often see them sold in hardware stores as "weed cutters". Answer it is also called a ditch bank blade. Without the wooden handle as used by the "highway boys"...it's more of a scythe.

Most coin size or smaller gravel runs about $20-25 a yard (ton). That will usually cover about 100 sq. feet at 3 inches deep.

Pode / poden / poda / podad corto el pasto (césped). Corto el cesped muy corto (X)

well if you consider straw a grass than yes i think so. <><><> For everyday wear, no. You probably do not wear a bearskin everyday. However, both men (kane) and women (wahine) wear the traditional skirt ( pa'u) when performing historically accurate hula. Aloha

The best was to pack top soil is with a roller, there really isn't a way to do it without a roller. Your local hardware store should have one available for rental and spending the money in the long run is well worth the end results. If you don't use a lawn roller before planting a new yard, then you will have air pockets in your soil, creating an uneven lawn that is succeptible to drainage issues and unnevenness. The point of using a roller is to provide firm soil to form a seed bed with to plang grass and if the soil is loose and you get a rain, the seed is likely to be washed and your soil will becom e eroded.

Fungi (toadstools) mushrooms grow in lawns usually when there are decaying roots from a tree that has died or been felled. The dead tree roots begin to rot and create a perfect environment for fungi spores to develop. To rid your lawn of fungi you would need to remove the fungi and lift a 1ft square of turf and the soil from the square to a depth of approx 6 maybe 12" replace this soil with compost or sterilised top soil and lay the turf back in place, You would need to do this for each outbreak of fungi. feeding the lawn during the summer and collecting the grass clippings would also reduce the risk of further fungi occurring.

The water from which the calcium and magnesium sulphate sounds are removed through chemical treatment is known as soft water. They are usable water and used for consumption and also to water your lawn grass. They thus are not the ones for getting rid of the grasses in ones lawn.

Tall Fescue, Red Fescue, Ryegrass/Annual/Perennial, KY Bluegrass, KY-31, and Bentgrass are a few good choices. Late summer/early fall planting of grass is considered better than spring planting. Fall planting gives new grass two complete growing seasons before it goes through the hot, dry summer of the following year.

No. If the grass is dead it's dead.

That depends upon how deep the soil bed is and how much moisture is in the topsoil. But here are some ballpark numbers for you: A yard of soil will cover a 10' by 10' area to a depth of three inches. In other words, figure a third of a yard per 100 square feet for every inch of depth. Length x width x # of inches deep divided by 324 = the number of cubic yards needed for that task.

Yes. It should be used between flower groupings and roots, not directly applied very near flower roots and root groups. Careful application and proper watering are the keys to success. I strongly disagree with the above recommendation. "Weed and feed" is a combination of fertilizer and herbicide, the latter specifically designed to kill broad-leaved plants without harming turf grasses. Using it in your garden would be fine only if you only wanted monocots (grasses) to thrive, and wanted to suppress or kill all dicots (broad-leaved and woody plants). Roots from broad-leaved plants typically grow outward from a central stem at least twice as far as above ground portions (branches and leaves), and sometime many times farther than that. If the roots of desirable plants are exposed to "weed and feed" they will may increase in number and size due to the fertilizer component. Depending on the herbicide's mode of action, the fertilizer can enable the roots to carry more of the herbicide back to the plant. Once absorbed by the roots, the effectiveness of the herbicide will be determined by the amount taken in, and the species tolerance of or vulnerability to the herbicide used. Most "weed and feed" formulations have labels that include a warnings against using the product anywhere near a garden bed and desirable broad-leaved plants.

Usually its good practice to roll a lawn when its fairly wet, such as in early spring, the soil is wet enough that it flattens out with the roller. If you do it later in the summer when the soil is hard and dry there will be little effect, it might just knock down the bigger bumps is all. There is no reason to roll a lawn. A roller is for compacting the surface, a roller will not level a uneven lawn. Rollers are for bowling greens and cricket wickets. Rolling will not level a bad lawn.

Divide the square feet by 9 to get square yards.

It's sucked into the weeds through Osmosis, down into the roots. Any plant will do the same so be careful on were you spray.

Microbes and insects are involved in the decomposition of plant matter.

Always unplug it if its electric or pull the contact wire off the spark plug if it's gas. Make sure you don't get whipped by accidently turning the power on...it will hurt you.Next, remove the screw that holds the spool onto the unit. The spool is the piece that you will refill with new line. If you have tough weeds,buy a thicker line...it lasts longer. Spool according to the arrows on the plastic casing. Reinsert onto weed whacker. Tighten screw. Reinstall the wire onto the spark plug or plug unit back into the cord. Tamp down on the ground to feed wire (most weed whackers are made like this to advance the string). Happy weed whacking. Always use the guard unless you do this professionally. Use caution if removing the guard and using it.You can use it as an edger though with the guard removed.ALWAYS wear safety glasses when using power equipment. It is not too difficult -- you have to buy a new spool of the plastic line, and then carefully remove the old one. Then you pull out a bit of the new spool so it sticks out past the opening (about two inches will do) and snap the new spool in.

Yes. Go outside and pee in the same spot for a week and you will have a large brown spot.

An insect that makes foam to protect it's babies. It is called a spittlebug.

There is a chemical in weed n feed that is harmless to grass but deadly to weeds. they also put grass fertilizer in it.

BAD idea. You don't want to kill the very plants you want to keep that are infested with bugs, right? Weed killer is meant to kill PLANTS and Bug killer is meant to kill BUGS. There's a reason why their sold separately, and not mixed together!!

to do handrail or deck-- a carpenter would charge about $65 - $125 per hour just for labor plus materials cost. and sometimes an extra $50 per trip for fuel and time and loading if he has to pick-up and deliver the materials.