• 
• 1 answer

No...there is no 'nutrition' in used motor oil. It's petroleum. Fertilizers work by adding nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil. Besides, why on earth would you want to spread that on your lawn? Doing so causes it to leach into the ground, the water supply, and will probably kill whatever you might have growing.

Petroleum is toxic to plants, so keep it far away from any growing things. Used motor oil also picks up heavy metals from the engine, especially old engines, so it's even worse.

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 2 answers

An improper drainage system leads to the foundation damage and ultimately insect Infestation, mold and allergens. Poor drainage grade will allow water to seep through the ground to the soil layer underneath.

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

Any plant is a weed if it is growing in a place you don't want it to grow. Yes Ravenna Grass is invasive.

• 
• 1 answer

Most coin size or smaller gravel runs about $20-25 a yard (ton). That will usually cover about 100 sq. feet at 3 inches deep.

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

well if you consider straw a grass than yes i think so.

<><><>

For everyday wear, no. You probably do not wear a bearskin everyday. However, both men (kane) and women (wahine) wear the traditional skirt ( pa'u) when performing historically accurate hula.

Aloha

• 
• 1 answer

The best was to pack top soil is with a roller, there really isn't a way to do it without a roller. Your local hardware store should have one available for rental and spending the money in the long run is well worth the end results. If you don't use a lawn roller before planting a new yard, then you will have air pockets in your soil, creating an uneven lawn that is succeptible to drainage issues and unnevenness. The point of using a roller is to provide firm soil to form a seed bed with to plang grass and if the soil is loose and you get a rain, the seed is likely to be washed and your soil will becom e eroded.

• 
• 1 answer

Fungi (toadstools) mushrooms grow in lawns usually when there are decaying roots from a tree that has died or been felled. The dead tree roots begin to rot and create a perfect environment for fungi spores to develop. To rid your lawn of fungi you would need to remove the fungi and lift a 1ft square of turf and the soil from the square to a depth of approx 6 maybe 12" replace this soil with compost or sterilised top soil and lay the turf back in place, You would need to do this for each outbreak of fungi. feeding the lawn during the summer and collecting the grass clippings would also reduce the risk of further fungi occurring.

• 
• 1 answer

The water from which the calcium and magnesium sulphate sounds are removed through chemical treatment is known as soft water. They are usable water and used for consumption and also to water your lawn grass. They thus are not the ones for getting rid of the grasses in ones lawn.

• 
• 1 answer

Tall Fescue, Red Fescue, Ryegrass/Annual/Perennial, KY Bluegrass, KY-31, and Bentgrass are a few good choices. Late summer/early fall planting of grass is considered better than spring planting. Fall planting gives new grass two complete growing seasons before it goes through the hot, dry summer of the following year.

• 
• 1 answer

No. If the grass is dead it's dead.

• 
• 1 answer

That depends upon how deep the soil bed is and how much moisture is in the topsoil. But here are some ballpark numbers for you: A yard of soil will cover a 10' by 10' area to a depth of three inches. In other words, figure a third of a yard per 100 square feet for every inch of depth. Length x width x # of inches deep divided by 324 = the number of cubic yards needed for that task.

• 
• 1 answer

Yes. It should be used between flower groupings and roots, not directly applied very near flower roots and root groups. Careful application and proper watering are the keys to success.

I strongly disagree with the above recommendation. "Weed and feed" is a combination of fertilizer and herbicide, the latter specifically designed to kill broad-leaved plants without harming turf grasses. Using it in your garden would be fine only if you only wanted monocots (grasses) to thrive, and wanted to suppress or kill all dicots (broad-leaved and woody plants). Roots from broad-leaved plants typically grow outward from a central stem at least twice as far as above ground portions (branches and leaves), and sometime many times farther than that. If the roots of desirable plants are exposed to "weed and feed" they will may increase in number and size due to the fertilizer component. Depending on the herbicide's mode of action, the fertilizer can enable the roots to carry more of the herbicide back to the plant. Once absorbed by the roots, the effectiveness of the herbicide will be determined by the amount taken in, and the species tolerance of or vulnerability to the herbicide used. Most "weed and feed" formulations have labels that include a warnings against using the product anywhere near a garden bed and desirable broad-leaved plants.

• 
• 1 answer

Usually its good practice to roll a lawn when its fairly wet, such as in early spring, the soil is wet enough that it flattens out with the roller. If you do it later in the summer when the soil is hard and dry there will be little effect, it might just knock down the bigger bumps is all.

There is no reason to roll a lawn.

A roller is for compacting the surface, a roller will not level a uneven lawn.

Rollers are for bowling greens and cricket wickets.

Rolling will not level a bad lawn.

• 
• 1 answer

Divide the square feet by 9 to get square yards.

• 
• 1 answer

It's sucked into the weeds through Osmosis, down into the roots. Any plant will do the same so be careful on were you spray.

• 
• 1 answer

Microbes and insects are involved in the decomposition of plant matter.

• 
• 
• 5 answers

• 
• 1 answer

Always unplug it if its electric or pull the contact wire off the spark plug if it's gas. Make sure you don't get whipped by accidently turning the power on...it will hurt you.Next, remove the screw that holds the spool onto the unit. The spool is the piece that you will refill with new line. If you have tough weeds,buy a thicker line...it lasts longer. Spool according to the arrows on the plastic casing. Reinsert onto weed whacker. Tighten screw. Reinstall the wire onto the spark plug or plug unit back into the cord. Tamp down on the ground to feed wire (most weed whackers are made like this to advance the string). Happy weed whacking. Always use the guard unless you do this professionally. Use caution if removing the guard and using it.You can use it as an edger though with the guard removed.ALWAYS wear safety glasses when using power equipment.

It is not too difficult -- you have to buy a new spool of the plastic line, and then carefully remove the old one. Then you pull out a bit of the new spool so it sticks out past the opening (about two inches will do) and snap the new spool in.

• 
• 1 answer

Yes. Go outside and pee in the same spot for a week and you will have a large brown spot.

• 
• 1 answer

An insect that makes foam to protect it's babies. It is called a spittlebug.

• 
• 1 answer

There is a chemical in weed n feed that is harmless to grass but deadly to weeds.

they also put grass fertilizer in it.

• 
• 1 answer

BAD idea. You don't want to kill the very plants you want to keep that are infested with bugs, right? Weed killer is meant to kill PLANTS and Bug killer is meant to kill BUGS. There's a reason why their sold separately, and not mixed together!!