Modification of Old Electrical Work

I've never heard of a 50 amp b-e-a-k-e-r. You can put a 50 amp b-r- e-a-k-e-r in a 60 amp panel; but you can only have an additional 10 amp breaker along with it. You may need to consider adding another larger panel or a separate 50 amp breaker box.

Most electrical wiring is made of copper due to its high conductivity and flexibility. Copper is preferred for electrical wiring as it can efficiently carry electricity while being durable and resistant to corrosion. However, there are also some electrical wiring products made from aluminum, which is a less expensive alternative with slightly different properties.

No, it is not recommended to use a higher-wattage bulb in a fixture than what the ballast is designed for. Using a 34 watt T8 bulb with a 40 watt T12 ballast can lead to decreased efficiency, increased risk of damage to the ballast and bulb, and potential safety hazards. It is best to match the bulb wattage with the ballast rating for optimal performance and safety.

Typically the white wire is "neutral" and colored wires are power.

In a light switch, it depends on what the electrician wanted to do. Most use white for common and colored wires for travelers, but don't count on that. Switch legs often are wired a little differently, depending on the electrician.

If an electrician is being nice to you he will often put colored tape on a wire to indicate what he is doing, but it's not required.

If you have questions about the wiring, contact a qualified electrician to help with the problem.

For a 240-volt, 50-amp circuit at 100 feet in length, you would need to use a 6-gauge wire. This wire size ensures that you have minimal voltage drop over the distance, allowing your circuit to operate safely and efficiently. Make sure to consult local electrical codes and regulations before proceeding with the installation.

This looks like a question that has come out of the middle of a conversation. Us poor guys trying to answer the question don't have any context. We don't know what the intermediate switch is; or anything else about the system. You can always use just one side of a two pole switch to replace a single pole switch.

Each computer will have an amperage rating. Using 80% rule for continuous load you should not exceed 16 Amps total. You'll have to add in your monitor power as well. Your start up current can be slightly higher due to bringing discs up to speed.

A typical desktop might draw from 2 to 3 amps. Depending on type a monitor may draw from 1 to 3 amps.

A typical laptop may draw 1.5 amps from charger.

This is done all the time as an add-on to an existing system. An electrician wouldn't do this in an original installation. The considerations you have are not over loading the existing circuit; and the cosmetics involved if your wires are all concealed inside walls.

You basically connect black, white and bare wires from the outlet to the switch. You switch the hot (black) wire and run black from switch to lights in parallel and connect the white and ground in the switch box.

If you would be adding 3 60 watt lights that would add about 1.5 amps to the existing circuit.

As with any electrical installation you need to know what you are doing, power needs to be off and you have to follow best practices an electrician would use to run wires and make connections.

The very first thing you do is shut off the breaker to this circuit. Now if you mean in a receptacle or switch box, the incoming cable ground wire, first connects to the box ground screw and then it is twisted with the outgoing ground wire and a wire nut is screwed on the ends of the wire to hold the wires together. In the case of a receptacle the same procedure is applied except there is a short piece of ground wire also twisted to the incoming and outgoing wires. This is called a pigtail and it goes to the green ground screw on the duplex receptacle

For a 200 amp service, it is recommended to use at least a 3/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum wire. These wire sizes can safely handle the current and provide necessary voltage drop considerations for a 200 amp service.

For a 70 amp load at 250 ft, you would typically need a 4 AWG copper wire to minimize voltage drop and ensure safety. It is always a good idea to consult local electrical codes and regulations to ensure compliance and safety.

Actually curent or voltage that passes through the object . then there will be a loss .if (current or voltage) the electrical energy is converted into light source , mechanical energy( rotation of fan),chemical reaction(electroplating) as heat (iron box ). so when no object(load) is connected to the plug point there wont be any loss if you r switch on the switch too.

If you don't know how to install light fixture, I don't recommend that you do it by yourself. The installation theory is actually very simple - all you need to do is attach fixture on the ceiling (or any other place) and then connect the electrical wires (usually there are two of them). After that it's good to put the light cover over the fixture to improve the appearance.

For a 12-gauge wire, typically a 20 amp breaker is used for general household wiring. However, always refer to local electrical codes and consult with a licensed electrician for specific requirements based on the application and load.

Be careful. Grey and yellow wires are typically used on 277/480v systems. Confirm you have the right voltages before connecting your equipment.

If wired in a typical manner, the yellow wire is your hot (black) and grey is your neutral (white). The purple may be a hot or may be a switch leg or serve some other purpose. I suggest if you can't confirm this information you hire someone to do it for you. You might get yourself hurt or dead or start a fire.

Siemens circuit breakers are compatible with Gould electrical panels. Siemens acquired the Gould brand, so their circuit breakers are designed to fit and work with Gould panels. Be sure to double-check the specifications to ensure compatibility before installation.

Using basic calculation of amps times volts equals watts you can see that a 15 amp circuit at 120volts has a capability of 1800 watts but a circuit should never be loaded above 80% so you have 1440 watts available. Most recessed light will not allow higher than a 75 watt bulb so assuming this take 1440 watts and divide by 75 watts to get 19.2 bulbs as you cant have a partial bulb go with no more than 19 lights. On a normal height ceiling of about 9 feet I never place recessed lights closer than 24 inches to the wall. As for interconnecting you just run a wire from one recessed light to the next. I would recommend that if you do not feel comfortable with the placement or wiring of these lights that you contact an electrician that specializes in lighting design to help you.

Typically the silver screws are neutral, the brass screws are for "hot" (if there are silver screws)

There are two on each side because that gives you options.

You can feed into the plug box and connect to one pair of screws, then subfeed the next circuit using the other pair.

OR

you can separate the circuits so that the top and bottom halves of the plug are either on a separate circuit or one half can be on a switch. The options are there if you want to use them. To separate the top and bottom half you'd need to break away the jumper between the top and bottom halves of the plug.

In both ATX and BTX power supplies, the remote switch wire from the case must be connected to the motherboard's power switch header or pins. This connection allows the power supply to be turned on/off using the computer's power button.

To disable one switch of a two-way lighting switch, you can disconnect the wire connected to that switch from the electrical circuit and cap it off with a wire nut to ensure it is not energized. Be sure to turn off the power to the circuit before attempting any electrical work and consult a qualified electrician if needed.

It is hard to tell what is going on from your description since you didn't indicate how measurements were being made. The only time I have seen something like this going back to breaker was when there were two separate breakers providing voltage to the box.

One way to find out is turn off all breakers and there should be no voltage to the fan box. Then turn breakers on, one at a time while monitoring the voltage at box (two people are helpful). If the breaker you think controls the box shows a voltage when turned on, turn it off and try the rest of the breakers to see if any of them provide voltage to the box.

If all breakers are off and you still have power in the box and you live in an apartment or duplex of some sort, maybe you are tied into a neighbor's power.

Only other answer is if power is coming from main and is un-switched. This would be very strange.