New Electrical Work

At 240v single phase it's 70.8 amps. If it runs on 2 wires plus ground, take the voltage rating of the equipment and divide that into the watts to get amps.

At 480v 3 phase it's 25.8 amps.

At 208v 3 phase it's 47.2 amps.

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There are zero amps in 14 kW. A voltage needs to be stated. I = W/E, Amps = Watts/Volts.

I believe it to be about 12 inches at the minimum.

No, but the code as of today (2012) does require tamper proof outlets.

On large service entrance services the neutral can be reduced. The amperage of the service and the voltage of the service and the insulation factor of the 500 MCM conductors need to be stated to answer this question correctly.

If there is nothing between the two leads of the meter then there is nothing "droping" the voltage.. the meter simply reads the difference in voltage between the two leads. Put the black lead to ground and the red where you want to determine voltage.. this will tell you how many volts are at that point.

Your 2-wire system is actually connected to one "side" of the 3-wire system.

In your utility's 3-wire system you have 2 hot wires that are attached to each end of a tranformer winding and the neutral is attached in the middle and grounded. Typically in the US this gives you 240v (or something similar) between hot leads and 120v from each hot lead to neutral or ground.

400w is the power 110 is the voltage. Is your light using 110v already or 220v? Believe you are already running at 110 and u don't understand electrical terms. Perhaps you should call an electrician

You are working with two different values. Watts is the product of amps times volts. W = A x V, as you can see if there is a value missing then there can be no answer given.

As long as the cables have the UL or CSA certification stamped on the cable both are good. The deciding factor should be the cost of one over the other.

Beware of knock offs coming into the market place from off shore countries. Using these products could be a concern if you have to make a claim on your house insurance.

NEC 310.16 conductor ampacities

NEC 240.4(D)

For residential installations the smallest wire to be used is 14 AWG (15 amps rating)

and for commercial installations the smallest wire to be used is 12 AWG (20 amp rating)

White wire is usually used as a neutral conductor and a 240v ac unit has no neutral. Each leg of the 240 volts is a "hot" leg

However, very often a 12/2 or 14/2 NM cable is used to power small window ac units using 240v. In this case one of the conductors is white, but is not a neutral. It is good practice to mark the white wire with black tape so it is readily identified as a hot wire.

An "electric leak" to ground from a hot wire should trip a breaker or fuse.

If you believe your neutral is going to ground before it reaches the panel, this may be hard to find. I would start by ensuring that your neutral connections or done correctly at each splice.

While doing this, check to ensure that you do not see any bare conductors on your neutral. This may be caused by mishandling or varmints (that would be mice and such). Also check to ensure that device screws (that would be screws used to mount switches, receptacles, and such) have not punctured your neutral. Damage like this can be hard to find because the damage may be so small that when the device is removed, the hole created by the screw may close itself and not be visible.

The question is irrelevant if you don't include the amperage.

In the North American market, solid core is used for home wiring where flexibility is not a problem with installation. Conduit systems use stranded wire because of its flexibility when being pulled into a conduit system that has multiple bends between pull boxes.

For cable not in conduit and intended to be installed without conduit, such as NM cable, yes. You must provide some form of connector that will hold the cable in place. A clamp is not the only kind of connector that will do this but is the most common.

No, nor under a stairwell. The electrical code stipulates that there has to be 3 feet or 1 metre in front of an electrical panel for clearance for easy access. The panel being in the closet does not fit this criteria.

DON'T CONNECT A GROUND WIRE TO A COLD WATER PIPE!!!

Use ground rods in accordance with local codes.

When in doubt, contact a local electrician or the local building and zoning office of your city or county.

Connecting a ground wire to your cold water pipe can result in electrolysis that will eat away at you water pipe.

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Metal underground water pipe is the first grounding electrode listed in the NEC. It is still commonly used in residential installations and is used in commercial installations when available. When the water pipe is used as the primary grounding electrode, it must be supplemented with another electrode which is most commonly a ground rod.

Generally speaking, a 325 amp service requires 350 kcmil copper conductors for residences or 400 kcmil copper conductors for commercial installations. In either case these require a grounding electrode conductor of 1/0 ("one ought") copper.

There is no limit in the NEC. This distance is limited by your ability to pull wire the distance needed. If you install 100 feet of pipe, you will need a way to pull wire that distance. If you install 300 feet of pipe, same thing.

Fish tapes come in various lengths but can be pricey and rarely used if you buy a long one. There are ways to use a shop vac to suck or blow string in the conduit and for the most part length doesn't matter using this method. If the conduit is large enough and/or the wire big enough you can use this string to pull in a rope with the strength you need.

Amps * Volts = Watts

Amps * 12 = 600

600/12 = Amps = 50 amps

You would need a reserve capacity, so I'd go somewhere between 60 or 100 Amp rated transformer.

Transformers are rated in volt-amps which is usually calculated the same as watts. But the term "watts" technically does not apply to transformers. So you need a 600 volt-amp transformer or, as Redbeard has suggested, you need an 800 or 1000 volt-amp transformer.

That's a lot of amps for a 12 volt system so I recommend you double check your requirements. You will need a #2 gauge wire if your requirements are correct.

No. The only thing required to be gfci protected is a receptacle. I've never understood why light fixtures, fans, and other appliances do not required protection around so much water, but they do not. They should, however, be listed for damp locations.

Contact your local electrical inspector to be sure but I would say the answer is no.

Yes as long as they are in a romex style wire. Like 12-2 for example. Which is individual wires incased in an outer jacket. You should never have just single wires running in the attic unprotected or anywhere for that matter. Individual wires must be in a conduit. And any splices should be in a box.

Yes it is wired with copper 2 wire is also known as 14/2 wire is use for switches,outlets,lights. and a 15a outlet should only be on a 15a breaker the main power feed to your meter to your panel is aluminum and can take more of a load than copper.

In the US, 15 amp receptacles can be installed on 20 amp circuits if there is more than one receptacle on that circuit.

Copper wire can carry a larger load than aluminum wire of the same size.

No! Panels are strictly forbidden in bathrooms of any kind. In the NEC, a half bath is a bathroom just as much as a full bath.

Unless otherwise specified you need a 5/8th inch by 8 foot copper clad rod. A great trick is to drive it in at a 45 degree angle and bend it up as you go so it ends up straight after it drive in all the way. This keeps you from hitting hard pan and keeps you from having to get on a ladder to drive the rid which can be kinda dangerous. Leave about 4 inches out of the ground for you ground clamp. For a 200 amp service use #4 armored ground. For 125 amp or 100 amp you can use #6 armored ground wire and an armored ground clamp.

The NEC allows that for ANY connection to ground rod, #6 solid copper is the largest conductor required. The ground rod is SUPPLEMENTAL, and only in rare circumstances is the ground rod your primary ground. The sizes given above are for your primary grounding connection, such as a metal water line.