New Electrical Work

The key parameter in sizing wire is the current requirement. Once you know that you can look up value in a wire gauge table. The length of the run is important for longer runs because of the resistance of the wire itself. Aluminum wire requires a larger diameter than copper for the same current. Once you calculate the wire size you can then size the conduit.

No. In a 20 amp circuit all wire has to be 12 AWG or larger.

You size wire by the current. Various insulations are rated for voltage, temperature and the medium where the wire will be run.

Using tracks of metal such as on a PCB (printed circuit board) or using other electrically conductive material such as the graphite in 'lead' pencils.

The transformer itself does not pull current. Whatever you connect to the transformer pulls current. Whatever the output voltage of the transformer is, divide that into 600 and you get maximum current possible without burning up the transformer.

At 24V that's 25 amps.

A circuit breaker is designed so that it will trip when the electric current is too high. That is the purpose of a circuit breaker. If there is a metal piece on the circuit breaker that prevents it from tripping, it is useless. Perhaps someone has altered it.

Any more than four 90 degree bents (equaling up to 360 degrees) or a combination of other bends will make it quite difficult to pull the wires into that pipe.

This is why the electrical code prohibits more than 360 degrees. If you have to put more bends than that, place a junction box on the line after the first 360 degrees. This way you pull to the junction box and then use that junction box so continue the rest of the way.

In European motor terminal boxes these are the identification letters of the motors coil ends. Connection to these letters are U - L1, V - L2 and W - L3.

The ground blade on a three blade plug (cap) is to provide a low impedance return to the voltage source. If the portable equipment develops a short in its circuit and goes to ground, it is this blade that will carry the short circuit current back to the supply distribution panel and trip the breaker open to cut off the supply voltage.

Yes electricity needs a path to return to complete a circut

Anything that can interfere with the proper function of the brain can cause seizures and certainly electricity can interfere with the brain. But it seems to me that the brain would have to be involved in the electric shock and in most cases it is not. Sometimes someone will get their head into hot wires, but hard hats are non-conductive and protect you from this.

The gauge of a wire is related to its cross sectional area and therefore defines its current carrying characteristics.

You can swap a single breaker for two mini breakers or you can add a sub-panel. If you only need a couple of extra circuits then just add mini-breakers.

A grounding bar is most often located in the breaker panel. This is where all your grounding conductors are landed. If the panel is your primary service panel, neutrals and grounds can both be landed there.

The NEC (US) requires that all service equipment be bonded together. This includes your meterbox. To most people bonding and grounding look alike but they serve different purposes. In most cases this bonding consists of a #6 AWG solid copper conductor connecting your service panel to your meterbox and also whatever you happen to be using as a grounding electrode, usually a water pipe and ground rod.

Consult a competent electrician for what is required in your area. I was on a job once where the city inspector expected this bonding conductor to be run with the service conductors inside the same conduit, which is what I would expect. But the power company for the same job required it to be run outside the conduit which is acceptable practice. Both were right, but we had to do it one way for the inspection and another way before power was supplied.

well I would call out a washing machine expert and claim on my insurance

Sounds like the motor on the timer has quit working. If the dial isn't advancing, this is the problem. It could be a broken connection with the motor wires which would allow everything else to work but not advance the timer. If the timer is advancing you have a solenoid stuck on or off somewhere and you will require a qualified repair person to find the problem.

A 350 MCM copper conductor with an insulation factor of 75 or 90 degree C is rated at 310 and 325 respectively. So depending on the insulation of the wire that is used, a parallel wire configuration will give you a total of 620 at 75 degrees C or 650 at 90 degrees C.

For me five..ewanq nalang sa iba ...08:-)

It is a heat shield.

Yes!

Double pole and single pole.

Not unless the wire going to the refrigerator outlet is AWG 10/2. If it is wired with 12/2 wire then you must use a 20 amp breaker. Using a 30 amp breaker is dangerous and a fire hazard.

Hard to know what you are meaning?

A timer is a device in a circuit that switches on then off at given times. There may be many on/off operations not just the one.

Think of some lights, say street lights that come on at a certain time then off at a later time. If they are electric that would fit you question.

Although the lights are more likely controlled by darkness at dusk and first light in a morning.

G4CIR

A 100 foot fish tape and wire lubrication will be needed to make this wire pull.

It depends on the type pf panel. Some panels allow for half sized tandem breakers and some do not. It all depends on the busbar in the panel in relation to the part of the breaker that snaps/bolts on the bus. My advice would be to try it and if the breaker will snap/bolt on the bus you are good to go.... even better yet ...call an electrician...we work hard to learn the methods and codes in order to provide safe electricity in homes and buisnesses and for someone to just go online and try to do something themselves in order to save a few bucks is not cool and really just downright dangerous if you dont know what you are doing.

The NEC does not specify. Outdoor outlets are required to be GFCI protected so, in theory, if all works properly, it shouldn't matter.

But I wouldn't place the outlet below the faucet under any circumstances.

And I wouldn't place it in close proximity, say, less than 2 feet apart. But this all depends on how convenient it is and what appearance you are looking for.