New Electrical Work

It's just that, 3 phase, Y.

It's typically used in large businesses and manufacturing facilities.

If the sub panel is in the same building remove the bonding screw that bonds the neutral bar to the panels enclosure. Remove the ground from the second ground rod. The sub panel is grounded by the ground wire from the sub panel's feeder.

If the panel is separate from the main building treat the sub panel as a separate service. It will need its own ground rods and ground wire from the rods to the neutral bar of the sub panel. Leave the bonding screw in. There will be no ground wire in the conduit between the two services.

Power coming into the box powering all 3 switches. A 12/2 or 14/2 wire going to each light from each switch depending on the size power wire you are using. They must be the same size wire. All the whites tied together and pushed back in the box. All the grounds tied together with a long jumper wire going to the ground screw of each switch. The black power wire connected to all three switches (bottom screw) with a long jumper wire. The black wires from each light connected to the 3 individual switches (top screw).

Yes you do. The circuit breaker box must be accessible without moving or lifting any objects. A three-foot clearance should be maintained around the box. The box door should be able to open to a 90 degree angle without obstacles. The height of the ceiling should be at least 6 feet. There must be a light in the area.

they have a red green and blue diode in the same housing. look at it when you try the different colors and you will see what portion of the cell emits the different colors. You can blend these colors to make almost any color

If you mean two separate circuits from different breakers, you will need a 2-pole time clock. The circuits will need to be kept completely separate, including neutrals. Remember that a time clock is just a switch operated by a timer and you only switch the hot wires.

The clock will be operated by one of the circuits. For this you will need the neutral of that circuit connected to the neutral contact of the clock. This is all rather simple if you can follow the wiring diagram provided with the clock. I doubt you can find a 2-pole clock at the local hardware or home improvement store. You may have to go to an electrical supplier.

I say this is simple and for an electrician it is. If you get the clock you need and it doesn't make sense to you in a minute or two you should not attempt to do this yourself. Crossing the hot wires or connecting the wrong neutrals to each other can create very unsafe conditions.

The NEC doesn't specify. Generally they are installed vertically with the ground on bottom.

In the world that I work in the ground is always installed on top. This is so if a gap exists between an outlet and the plug, anything falling into the gap hits the ground first and not across the hot and neutral wires simultaneously. Expanding on this premise an outlet installed horizontally with the neutral on top is the most safe installation. But I have never seen this done.

This is highly dependent on the source voltage and expected current. This cannot be done by an amateur. Find a competent electrician for this installation.

Black/White/Ground power in and the same out. Tie the incoming and outgoing white wires together under a yellow wire nut and push them back in the box. Tie the ground wires together under a green wire nut and connect the pigtail from those ground wires to the ground screw on the switch. Connect the 2 black wires you have left to the 2 screws on the switch. Doesn't matter which black wire you connect to which screw.

First twist together the wires to be joined. For larger wire use lineman's pliers to apply twist. Make the twist clockwise. Then twist on the wirenut clockwise on the wires. Wirenuts are rated as to how many wires of a certain size they can hold but in general twist by hand until you can twist no more and then about 1/2 twist with pliers. If the wirenut does not get tight it is too big or internal metal portion could be clogged in some way.

No, it will just trip and cut off the power.

An E-11 indicates it has a mini candelabra base bulb. I am not familiar with any d11s.

You need no conduit on a residential home using Romex wiring with wooden studs. For a 15 amp circuit use 14/2 wire with a 15 amp breaker. This can only be used in bedrooms, living rooms, and dining areas. All other areas of the home require 12/2 wiring with a 20 amp breaker.

A 1/0 aluminum conductor will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 30 amps for 500 feet on a 240 volt system.

You would need to know how FAR the load is from the service point. Then use an online calculator or the voltage-drop formula to determine the minimum diameter of the conductors necessary to provide 95 percent of the supply voltage to the device at the other end.

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If distance is not a factor, the wire size is determined by the amperage the wire has to carry. Using the formula I = W/E, Amps = Watts/Volts = 3000/380 = 7.98 amps.

A #14 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 75 or 90 degrees C is rated at 15 amps. This size wire has nearly double the capacity that you need.

Watts are a unit of power. So 40 watts of power to an LED are the same as 40 watts of power to a fluorescent. Sometimes LEDs are rated in equivalent watts which is an attempt to relate watts to brightness or lumens. You need to compare lumens and the "temperature" of the bulbs in Kelvin to get the comparison I think you are looking for.

Both a 45 amp and 50 amp breaker would require 6 AWG wire. So if you have 6 AWG wire and any devices like an outlet are rated at 50 amps or greater you are okay.

The American Wire Gauge (AWG) is a shorthand way to identify key characteristics of the size of a wire and pertinent specifications associated with the size. So you will often hear someone ask what gauge wire do I need for a 15 Amp circuit in my home. The shorthand answer in this case would be 14 AWG for a typical residential wiring job.

Yes, a 30 amp breaker is a 30 amp breaker. It must however be able to fit the box it is installed in.

You call your local electrician to do any work on the service main. He or she will explain it to you, including the bending radius, fasteners, etc.

12 gauge underground wire or if you think you will ever add any devices to this circuit use 10 gauge.

The V stands for volts and A is amps. If for example you have a 12kVA device and are running off a voltage of 120 volts then Amps = 12000/120 = 100. You then use the calculated amps in a wire size table to get the correct size.

It will power two 400 watt lamps.

For a standard switch, it doesn't matter. If it's a 3 way switch, "hot" is connected to the "common" connection.

It depends upon how far you need to take it.