New Electrical Work

Ignoring all other issues; when power goes out the UPS starts providing battery backup power that has been CONVERTED to AC. The UPS will attempt to provide 60 HZ power, and all of the stuff plugged into it will have been designed for 50 HZ power.

ALSO... 50 HZ countries often use 240 V mains inside the home, so the UPS that is designed for 60 HZ 120 V will probably melt down, but if it survives, it will attempt to provide 120 V when the power goes off, meaning that your equipment will probably fail.

The results will be unpredictable and unstable. It isn't really recommended, and if i were you, I wouldn't try it. Only use the proper UPS, the one that is designed for the local current.

yes wires is electrical panel

That depends on the dryer. Some have natural gas capabilties and use a standard 120V outlet (20 amp dedicated circuit). Others operate strictly off of electricity and use a 230V power source. These use a somewhat standard dryer outlet that conforms to the plug from the appliance, and are usually (but not always) 30 amps. In the case of the former you would use a 12 gauge wire with 2 conductors (hot and neutral) and a ground. The latter would use a 10 gauge wire with 3 conductors (2 hot wires and a neutral) and a ground. Always refer to the appliance specs to determine how the appliance should be wired, and find a qualified person to install these outlets if they don't exist.

AWG 12 will suffice.

4 ton

You probably mean to change it to a 240 V outlet... either case, you'll need to run a new wire and install a new breaker.

In household wiring it is the "hot" wire that carries current to the load.

2 1/2" EPVC schedule 40

It is because the nec standard.

No, you can use #4 bare copper ground wire.

That would depend upon how many amps will be used in the sub-panel. For example, a 30-A subpanel would need a minimum of 10 AWG feeder conductors.

No

Use a voltage tester held next to the wire. Turn the switch off. If the tester stops beeping then the wires are on that switch.

53

14 gauge will handle it with a 15 amp breaker. If you use 12 gauge use a 20 amp breaker.

Yes, as long as you do not run it under the floor joists. New electrical code requires that you drill a hole through the floor joists and run the wire through those holes. It cannot be hanging under the floor joists. If you see wires are already running under the floor joists then go ahead and run the wire under the joists attaching it on every other joists with a wire staple. Make sure they wire does not make contact with any metal ductwork or any other metal objects. Match the wire with what is already in the wall outlet you are jumping off of. If it is 12/2 then use 12/2, if it is 14/2 then use 14/2. Never mix wire gauges.

motor verry solov

code states that if a water source such as a sink is within 6 feet of a receptacle, that recetacle (s), must be protected by a GFCI receptacle.

I believe the actual distance is 5 feet. Please forgive me if I'm wrong. But the NEC also requires that ANY counter top receptacles in a kitchen and receptacles ANYWHERE in a bathroom must be GFCI protected.

More directly to your question, ordinary receptacles can be protected from a GFCI receptacle if properly wired. They are designed to do that. It is a way to save money. You may also consider a GFCI breaker if you have many receptacles to protect. I was told once that there is a limit of 3 "piggy backed" receptacles per GFCI but I have never seen that in the NEC.

There should be no noise caused by loose electrical connections if the main breaker is off. The only places that are energized at that point are the main lugs. There is nothing running so there shouldn't be any current which is the only reason a loose connection can cause noise.

But all that is based on what SHOULD be happening. If someone has tied into the mains to feed something then there could be noise caused by loose connections. Another possibility is something mechanical causing the panel to vibrate. Tightening the mounting screws might be sufficient to solve this problem.

GFCI Breakers are quite a bit more expensive than a GFCI outlet. More often than not a typical residence will need only a handful of GFCI outlets that combined together will be cheaper than a GFCI breaker.

If you need to protect a series of outlets with GFCI protection you can simply connect the rest of the outlets on that same circuit downstream from the first outlet on the line and make that the GFCI. All you have to do is connect all the other outlets to the LOAD side of the GFCI outlet. If a GFCI fault occurs in any of the outlets down stream they will trip that very first GFCI plug you placed and keep you safe.

300 kcmil @ 75°

AWG 12/2 wire on a 20 amp breaker. There must be 2 kitchen outlet circuits and each circuit must be protected with a GFCI outlet. Each of these items must be on it's own dedicated 20 amp circuit. Garbage disposal, dishwasher, microwave, refrigerator. This will require 6 dedicated 120 volt 20 amp circuits plus a 240 volt 60 amp circuit for the range.

That question can only be answered by someone who is familiar with local building codes. Contact a local electrical contractor for information regarding local building codes.

As with any electrical installation, the wire size used depends on the expected maximum current the wire will carry. That cannot be determined by voltage alone.