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New Electrical Work
Electrical work ranges from the installation of new electrical components to the maintenance and repair of existing electrical infrastructure. It may also include wiring airplanes, ships and other mobile platforms.
4,938 Questions
How do you wire a light that requires 240 Volts to 3-way switches?
== == === === == == If it were me, I'd wire a 110V relay to a conventional 3 way switch circuit and have the relay run the 220V light. Otherwise you get into a lot of expense and trouble dealing with a lot of specialty switches. <><><>
(LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
Should you be doing this yourself?)
You could always use a double-pole double-throw switch, which is nothing more than a 2 pole three-way switch [but you will need FOUR travelers instead of two!]
A relay controlling the 220 volt line sounds like a good idea.
If you are going to relays, though, why not a 12 or 24 volt control circuit. Low voltage switches and wiring are much more flexible, from a code and installation standpoint.
Thermostat cable is much cheaper than non-metallic cable ...
And, if you use a latching relay, you can use momentary contact type switches and have the light controlled from as many locations as you want [the switches get connected in parallel this way, not in series!]
<><><> I'm surprised, they must have some interesting wiring methods in Philly, and not bother with the NEC, or UL. No, you can not use a DPDT switch as a two pole, three way switch. A DPDT switch has both the up, and down position labeled as ON, which in itself would violate code, but additionally, because it was never intended to be used in that manner. If it hasn't been tested, and approved by the manufacturer for that purpose, and listed with UL as such, it's a code violation plain and simple to use it as such. You are right in that using a relay, with a low voltage control circuit is probably the best way to go.
<><><> What kind of light fixture requires 240 volts????? The only thing I can think of is a discharge lamp, and those should not be turned on and off frequently. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Perhaps one that is located in the UK? (See the answer given below!) The correct answer to your question will depend on the exact locations of the light and the switches to control it.
<><><>
By asking this question you are probably not quite ready to take on this particular task.
The correct answer will depend entirely on the location in Europe.
How to do this job depends entirely on the Wiring Regulations for the locality (Town/County/Country) and what they say about the locations where wall socket outlets and fixed electrical appliances are to be installed.
<><><> As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If other outlets and lights are not working after replacing the outlet, it could be due to improper wiring during the replacement process. Check to ensure all connections are secure and correct. If the issue persists, it may be best to consult a professional electrician to assess and rectify the problem for safety reasons.
Can you convert your breech plug on model 700 to shoot 209 primers?
yes there is a breech plug that Remington sell for a 209 primer
however there is one sold through cabelas for 40-50 bucks that is Canadian made and has alot less blow back then the Remington conversion while your weather shroud is on. cheaper solution but a musket cap nipple and shot those basically as fast as the 209 with out the blow back problems
The maximum house amperage is determined by a couple things: First and most important is the size of the service wire and whether it's copper or aluminum. Second is the size of the meter base/shutoff. And third is the size of the house breaker panel. Contact a reputable electrician in your area to help you with making any changes. This isn't like changing a lightbulb. You have to know what your doing or you could burn down the house. After your electrician has determined what your upgraded service disconnect/breaker will be, he will tell the power company the requirement so they can inspect and upgrade your service drop, if necessary, to carry the additional current. We recently upgraded and the power company had to put in a new transformer on the pole.
This light bulb may be on the same line as the vac. 1. Even if the dry vac is, let's say 300W, when it starts up it uses at least twice as much energy. If light dims and then goes back to normal, it's perfectly normal. 2. When light bulb dims and stays dim while operating dry vac, unplug it and never use in the same room again; it uses too much energy for the size of the wire and can cause overheating of wiring and fire! == == <><><> If the wiring is modern, check the connections on every device on that breaker or fuse. If you have a meter check the voltage at the receptacle with the vac and the light. <><><> There are two possibilities, depending on the details of the fault:
1) The bulb dims momentarily when you start the vacuum, then returns to normal brightness even while the vacuum is operating.
This is normal, as previously stated. The reason for this is that the limiting factor to current flow in a motor is the counter-voltage created by the running motor. [It actually works as a generator!. If you jam the motor so it cannot turn, the current flow through what is now an unimpeded conductor can be high enough to trip the circuit protective device!] ... and reduce the available voltage to any parallel connected device to the voltage across the motor! In this case, the resistance value of your circuit conductors can be the only significant load on the circuit [low resistance=high current!]
2) The bulb dims and stays dim throughout the operation of the vacuum.
There is something wrong with the circuit ... loose connection, partially open service neutral, partially broken wire, bad plug, dodgy breaker, etc. ... and the defect is part of the load, causing a voltage drop across the defect and your series connected motor! [voltage drop=energy usage=heat at the defect]
In this case, the bigger the load, the worse it looks!
Is it OK to join aluminum wire to copper wire using a junction box?
(LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
1] Combinations of aluminum and copper conductors require precise procedures and materials for proper termination at a splice.
2] All conductors are required by the NEC to terminate in a suitable enclosure whose volume has been determined on the basis of the size, type and number of conductors entering the enclosure, the entry fittings, installed devices, etc. <><><> Copper and aluminum exposed to the air will react and the resulting corrosion will form a very bad, high resistance, connection that will get hot and could start a house fire when high current flows through it. To avoid this risk you need to use special connectors which have been designed to connect aluminum wire to copper wire. <><><> You must use an approved Anti-Oxidant Compound such as "Noalox", or connectors "listed" for that purpose. <><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work
AND
always use an electricians test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
== == == == You may have a bad hot or a bad neutral, or both. This circuit should be protected by a GFCI and is covered in the NEC Code Book.
In many localities (Towns/States) there are now wiring code requirements for a bath sink light to be GFCI protected.
<><><>
LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
Should you be doing this yourself?)
This is one of those questions - if you know this little, you shouldn't be doing what you are doing...
No disrespect intended, but this is SO basic that it suggests you have not studied the subject at all!
There are many good reference books and course books to study from.
Troubleshooting is the height of the art.
The only reason there is "not enough voltage" somewhere is because there is a
partially open connection providing resistance and a location to allow a voltage drop [bad splice, bad switch, bad breaker, broken wire, burned splice, ...].
It is the knowledge of how electricity works, and of the methods and materials used to create a functional wiring system, that enables a skilled troubleshooter to locate the problem and repair it.
Where should the "voltage" be, and how does it get there?
When you understand that, you will understand what is keeping it from getting where it should be...
Happy hunting! <><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
<><><>
Wow! This is interesting!
Even though non-grounding, non-polarized outlets may still be for sale in some hardware stores, nowadays every newly-installed outlet should have a ground.
A lot of homeowners may want to save money but, if the wires are larger than 18 gauge, leave them alone and call a professional to save families and homes from electrocutions and fires.
<><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Why won't the GFCI trip the panel box when shorted?
A GFCI is not an overcurrent protection device. It only protects people from electrical shock. However, if you were to create a perfect hot to neutral short the GFCI would not trip and the panel breaker would.
How many plug-in outlets can you wire to a 15A breaker?
Most (if not all) city codes require outlets be wired with 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp breaker. Lights can be wired with 14 gauge and 15 amps.
One, or possibly a million. The question you need to ask youself is how do you intend to load this 15A circuit. It already has a light on it. Is that all? How much power does this use? What is the usage of these new outlets? How much power do you plan to draw off them?
Remeber power is the product of voltage and current. So your 15A 120V breaker can supply 1800W. Sum up everything you want to put on this circuit. If you plan on drawing more than 1000W regularly on this circuit you should consider using two or more circuits. Keep in mind you want a margin of error (I went with 800W) for large temporary loads such as vacuum cleaners and irons. Don't underrate your circuit, you will regret it later.
Another poster said in another thread that according to code "generally each duplex outlet may count for 180W" (Smseagle). So, to use this rule, you need to take 1800W, subtract the wattage of your security light, and divide the result by the remainder. The quotient, rounded down, is your answer.
Yes a bad circuit breaker and a bad light switch can cause a light to flicker when its turned on. It could also be caused by loose wiring going or coming from that paticular circuit. it also could be something in the fixture itself causing. Checking for loose connections is your cheapest and first route to go.
Starting at the switch, with one set of three wires coming in from the service panel and one set of three wires going out to the frist light. Usually you would have a black wire for hot, white for neutral and a bare wire for ground. --The black wire coming in and the black wire going out are fastened to the screws on the side of the switch. one on each scerw. You can use either wire for either screw but not the odd green screw that is for ground. --The two white wires are wire nutted together. --The two bare wires are twisted together and are also fastened to the odd Green screw. Some building codes require a small metal ring that looks likes a brass farrow to be used to crimp the to ground wires together. -----At the light box; --The black wires will all be wire nutted together. There should be three black wires, one from the switch, one to go out to the next light and one from the light fixture. --The three white wires like the black all get wire nutted together. One coming from the switch, one going out to the next light and one from the light fixture. --The two bare ground wires get twisted together and fastened also to a green ground screw. This green grounding screw may be on a metal bar that the light fixture is mounted to. ----Just repet the above for each light you are going to install. At the last light you will do the same, but will have one less wire of each color to hook up.
For your own personal safety and that of your family, the best advice you can be given is to call a licensed electrician to do this work for you.
240 volt household AC power circuits can kill you if you do not know exactly what you are doing.
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See View Discussion below.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
A disconnected or broken wire along the path somewhere. If you have 5 outlets (in a row) on a breaker and the wire breaks at the 3rd outlet, the first two outlets will still work but the others will not. Rodents are known to gnaw on wires and that can cause the break. Or maybe a wire just came loose from a recepticle.
How do you wire a 3-wire 240V 15A pump motor to a GFCI receptacle or GFCI breaker?
== == == == Don't know if there are any 240V GFCI receptacles so I vote for a 240V GFCI breaker which would be 2 pole. The pump should have two colored wires and a white. White goes to the neutral bus and the two colored wires go to the two poles of the breaker. <><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
Should you be doing this yourself?)
This is one of those questions - if you know this little, you shouldn't be doing what you are planning...
No disrespect intended, but this is SO basic that it suggests you have not studied the subject at all!
There are many good reference books and course books to study from.
Don't do it!
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work
AND
always use a meter or voltage indicator
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
How do you wire a 6-20R outlet?
A 6-20R is 220V, 15/20A correct? If the outlet is within 75ft of the panel you need to run 12-2 to the outlet from the panel. I would recommend 12-3 as you can then upgrade to a 120/240V outlet later and you are not using a white wire as a hot. If you do use 12-2 wrap the white wire with electrical tape to show it's not neutral. Then just wire the outlet as a normal 220V outlet to a 20A 220V breaker.
Yes, you need to use a mini breaker panel with a 15A circuit breaker to safely connect a 15A receptacle to a 30A line. The breaker panel will protect the receptacle and wiring from the higher current capacity of the 30A line, preventing potential overheating or damage. It's important to match the amperage of the circuit breaker with the rating of the receptacle to ensure safe electrical operation.
(LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [Disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
Should you be doing this yourself?)
GFI receptacles are now installed on what is known as a small appliance branch circuit
Yours is old or an add-on.
If the power for the receptacle comes from the switch box directly then you can make it work all the time by moving the hot wire feeding the GFI from the 'load' side of the switch to the 'hot' - permanently live - side of the switch.
Remember that you only put one wire under a screw, so you will have to make up or change splices. [wirenut connections]
If you aren't up to this, get an electrician.
<><><> Actually, the most likely situation is that you have a receptacle under a light over the sink at the other side of the room from the switch.
They did this to get a receptacle without doing the hard job.
If that is the case, you are stuck unless you want to rewire the outlet from another source: a new 20 amp circuit like it SHOULD be - tear up your bathroom and run it to the switch like the people who put it in didn't want to! Or tear up something else and get power from somewhere else that is hot all the time. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
Is everything on that circuit breaker not working? Breakers will go bad sometimes.
Get yourself an inexpensive receptacle tester (~$4.00 at hardware stores) and test each outlet. It looks like a plug with 3-4 lights on the end. It will diagnose simple problems (no hot, no ground, no neutral, reversed wires) and can aid in diagnosis.
How can you wire a normal 120V outlet out of a double pole circuit breaker?
well, the easy answer is, black wire to one pole of the breaker, white wire to the neutral bus with all the other white wires, bare wire to the ground bus with all the other bare (or green) wires. BUT the breaker must be 20 amps or less for residential outlets and you much match the wire size to the breaker, #14 for 15 amp breaker, #12 for a 20 amp breaker AND if there is only going to be one outlet, if it is a 20 amp circuit, the outlet has to be rated for 20 amps. Yes, but why would you want to? It is unclear to anybody else what you are doing and therefore a hazard. Do it right. Use a single pole breaker designed for 110V.
To fix this issue, you can replace the outlet with a four-prong outlet that matches the stove's cord. Alternatively, you can replace the stove's cord with a three-prong cord that fits your current outlet. Both solutions are relatively quick and cost-effective fixes for the mismatched prong configurations.
Can you tie into a 3-way switch at the end of the run and add additional outlets?
If I am reading your question right, you can do this. Just parallel the outlets to the device already switched by the 3-way switches. The outlets will turn off and on by the switches. Watch that you do not overload the switches or the circuit.
What gauge of wire from the panel to the outlet would a 240V 52A rated welder require?
#6 You can use number 6 copper if you wish,you will definitely not overload it or you can figure the wire size by the duty cycle. If your welder has a 100 duty cycle rating use wire good for 52 amps or a number 6. If the duty cycle is 90, multiply the amp draw by .95 x 52 or 49.4 amps or a number 8 wire. These are a few more of the duty cycle multipliers 80 duty cycle(.89) 70 duty cycle(.84) 60 duty cycle(.78)Duty cycle takes in to account that most welders do not weld continously at maximum welder output all the time.
