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Yes, the D7000 (and the D90) has fully automatic to fully manual settings. And has most of the features in the more expensive slrs

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Artist: Radical Face Song Title: Welcome Home

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Beginners often struggle to learn about lenses on how to best use them Our camera lens guide for beginners teaches you about how lenses work.

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200-400mm, with a monopod (single leg tripd).

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You have got to change your camera to flash! There is some sort of button that you press to solve your problematic problem. xo

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The Nikon L110 looks better, is higher quality and is going to last a long time because Nikon is a fantastic brand. I would advise it over the Samsung because the Samsung is just like a point and shoot, so if you want more of a professional camera, go for the Nikon.

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Yes, you'll need an adapter and then the lens.

The adapter on eBay is $24.99...

http://cgi.eBay.com/Lens-ADAPTER-UV-67mm-Nikon-L110-L100-Coolpix-Camera-/370381020707?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Lens_Accessories&hash=item563c6dde23

And the actual fisheye adapter is $49.95....

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-0-20X-Professional-Super-Fisheye/dp/B001K5T32U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1278169650&sr=1-2

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The best place to buy a sought after camera like the Nikon D3 would be at a smaller Nikon dealer who has had the professional Nikon dealership for many years. They tend to get treated very well by Nikon Inc....and because they are a smaller dealer, they tend not to have the mile long waiting list that the larger dealers have. I can guarantee you that when the very large dealers like B&H photo show the D3 "On Backorder" there are other small dealers throughout the country who have a D3 on the shelf; waiting to be put to work. While some of these dealers will attempt to gouge the price...there are many reputable smaller dealers that will gladly match B&H's price in the effort to gain your business; hopefully for years to come. Checking the web today; I see one such dealer in Santa Barbara. Russ' Camera and Video. Their website says that they have been a Nikon dealer since 1975...and they have a D3 in stock right now. The other advantage of the smaller dealer is that you can often deal directly with the owner; not a commissioned sales-person who will try to sell you un-needed accessories.

I own a D3 and enjoy it immensely. I would encourage you to acquire one and put it to work today! ANSWER 2: you can buy it on AMAZON or Ebay, also there are many sites where you can get it, just search some of them at google

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Camera shake normally occurs because your shutter speed is too low. A good rule of thumb is to make sure you do not use a shutter speed lower than 1/focal length. For example, if you are shooting at 300mm, you want a shutter speed no lower than 1/300 sec.

You can increase your shutter speed by using a wider aperture like f/2.8 instead of f/5.6, which means you may need to upgrade your lens to a 'faster' model capable of wider aperture.

Alternatively you can use a higher ISO setting but that will introduce noise into the image.

Finally you can use a tripod or use your flash to freeze action. To prevent the background going dark while using flash, set 'slow sync' on your camera, but this will also require use of a tripod

The cheapest way to get good indoor pictures is to get a 'nifty fifty', a 50mm f/1.8 lens. This will cost less than a hundred dollars and set to a wide aperture will allow sharp pictures in low light without cranking the ISO up.

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The Nikon D90 just recently was introduced. It is the first DSLR camera that also has a video camera feature. Overall, it is also a decent camera. -BookShark

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Usually you can't. This prized position of being a distributor or reseller of certain name brand products, also carries with it the responsibility of selling 100's or even 1000's of units on a monthly basis. If you don't, you eat the cost. They will make sure b4 hand that you are a large enough operation to move their product. Look on e-bay, maybe you can find some good deals there. You can also find an authorized wholesaler. You won't be able to compete with retail giants buying from wholesalers but you can find niches in products that the retailers aren't carrying, specialty lines etc. and providing in depth knowledge and tutelage in using the products, followup service etc. in order to compete.

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No one can answer your question unless this is known......

Have you shot it with scope on?

what is MOA adjustment for the scope?

what is the yardage?

Let me know & Ill walk u in.....

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Yes. Make sure you purchase your sigma lens with the F-bayonet. Here is their lens finder: see related link

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no it isn't a touchscreen. but the controls are kinda touchscreen.

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TTL stands for Through The Lens metering. This is system where the camera measures the light on a scene based only on the light coming through the lens. Prior to TTL, there would be a light sensor on the top of the body (or a hand held unit) which measured the light coming from a fixed angle of view. The problem with this method is that it didn't take into account the angle of view of the lens in use. If a wide-angle lens was mounted, only the center of the viewed area would be used in exposure calculations, ignoring areas at the edges which could be brighter or dimmer than the center. When a telephoto (or long focus) lens was mounted, areas around the actually image would be included in the exposure calculation even though they are not included in the eventual image. TTL metering accounts for these differences by measuring light at the film plane. In more modern usage TTL is often used to refer to the flash metering system used by a camera. All of the same information applies. Nikon TTL is the Nikon camera company's version of the processing. The latest Nikon flash system is actually known as iTTL.

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Yes, found it under Necon. Yes, found it under Necon.

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Like all medium format cameras, the mirror on the mamiya 645 is pretty large and heavy. the mirror lockup lever takes it out of the equation once you've composed and focused your image, so that the vibration its action causes doesn't blur the final shot. it's pretty much essential if you're taking exposures longer than 1/60.

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Macros, which are special lines/fragments of code, differ from any other code written in the source files in the aspect that it's not passed to the compiler (either for the purpose of encoding into machine instructions, or some intermediate form instructions). Instead, macros perform textual manipulations on the source code before passing it to the compiler, where this process preliminary to compiling the source files is called "preprocessing", and the software component responsible of doing it is called the "preprocessor". Henceforth, macros are usually defined as "preprocessor directives", where a segment of code is replaced by the results of the macro processing before passing the source code to the compiler. A very valuable technique to gain a thorough understanding of the operation of macros in any environment is to learn how to obtained the preprocessed source code, and see how the macro directives are expanded.

Preprocessor macros, because of their distinctive nature compared to compiled code, are powerful tools in programming, and that's why the concept of macros is applied in most programming languages, such as the C programming language, and the assmebly language (where each assembler provides its own macro directives).

Macros should not be confused with other compiled code, and they should be used only while bearing in mind how they work, namely by modifying the source code prior to passing it to the compiler. Trying to employ macros to do jobs that cannot be done before compilation, but rather depends on the program's compiled state or the execution yields is a common mistake that beginners make, mainly those who learn programming by reading others' code, and since a lot of programmers use macros excessively for common programming jobs such as the emulation of constants, it's easy for a beginner to fall into the trap of thinking that they represent a code that is "executed" by the processor in run-time.

The excessive use of macros for purposes achieveable by run-time techniques is not recommended, and somehow deprecated. Nevertheless, macros sometimes are viable tools that has no other alternative, such as the case with assertions. Asserting is very common in defensive programming, and means warning the programmer at run-time if some necessary condition was not met upon execution in the Debug versions of the program, so that appropriate actions are taken in the time of development, while completely/or partially disappearing from the code in the Release version. The problem with the function that is meant to carry out such assertion is subtle, because, such a function is sometimes supposed to keep evaluating the expression even in the Release versions, and, if the expression evaluated to false and this were the debug version, it should output a message with a reasonable indication of that failing expression, usually using the textual C code conveying the expression, as well as the line number at which the assertion was performed and the code file name. This very interesting information CANNOT be obtained, in any means, at execution time, and such functionality is only achieveable via using simple -though powerful, macros. The macro used will take the bare expression and put it in an if statement, then within the statement block it will enclose the expression in double quotations to yield the representative string, while inserting the line number at which the assertion line was mentioned in the source file, plus the source file name, using special macro directives that are simply substituted with such information before compilation.

To learn more about C macros, refer to the famous Kernoghan/Richie's book "The ANSI C Programming Language", the explanations are brief but thorough.

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Also, When you took a picture with the Flash, the Flash wouldn't Work anymore, so my Grandpa made a Camera at his work so that the filment Wouldn't Burn out after you took a picture with Flash on, But didn't get any Credit or Money for it because since he made it at work, His boss got credit for it.

Resouces: My Family and what they have told me About Our Family History and My Grandpa Himself

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The Nikon D200 is great for everyday quick shots, as well as action shots thanks to the fast auto-changing ISOs and auto contrast features. It is also built with tougher material making it better for everyday use than other cameras in the same price and quality category.

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Yes, F mount lenses fit the Nikon D80, D90, D7000, D3000, D3100, D5000, D5100, D40, D40x, D50, D60, D70, D70s, D100, D200, D300, D300s and every other Nikon digital SLR

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I think so

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The quality of a Nikon depends on the models, but typically in the models from the past couple years the image stabilizers inside the lower end models are fairly cheap. This means that most of the photos will come out hazy and blurry. However, most Nikon D-SLRs have fantastic image stabilizers and take fantastic pictures.

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This is a Nikon lens that was originally released around 2005. AF-S stands for Auto Focus-Silent Wave Motor. This means that the lens has an autofocus motor built into it, so the cameras used with it do not have to have AF motors built into them. "DX" refers to the size of the camera sensor; the sensor has a 1.5x crop, which affects the focal length and the aperture. "18-135mm" refers to the range of focal lengths of the lens. "f/3.5-5.6" refers to the aperture of the lens; as the lens is zoomed in to longer focal lengths, the aperture gradually increases from f/3.5 to f/5.6. "ED" refers to the Extra-Low Dispersion elements, which reduce the chromatic aberration of the lens. IF stands for Internal Focus, which means the lens length does not change when focusing. The front element of this lens does not rotate when focusing either, so the orientation of front mounted accessories such as polarizing filters does not change during focusing.

In photography, the "focal length" of a lens is usually stated in millimeters (mm). The higher the number, the greater the magnification. A "normal" focal length for a 35mm film camera is around 50mm. A focal length of 18mm is considered "wide angle" and 135mm is sometimes referred to as a "portrait" lens. Lenses with higher numbers (200-1000) may be called "tele-photo". The listing for a lens as 18-135mm means it is a "zoom" lens. This means the focal length can be changed by the photographer usually by turning a ring on the body of the lens. As to "f3.5-5.6", in this listing, it is the range of the maximum size of the aperture. The aperture is the opening in the camera that allows light in to take the picture. The f number -- called the "f-stop" is calculated by dividing the diameter of the aperture opening by the focal length of the lens and expressing the answer as a properly reduced fraction (with the top number a 1). The f-stop is the bottom of the fraction. For example: a camera with a 100mm lens that has a maximum aperture of 50mm, or an "f-stop" of 2 (50/100=1/2). On a zoom lens, since the focal length changes, but the aperture does not, the f-stop will change with the focal length. So, the first number 3.5 means at the lower focal length (18mm) the maximum aperture opening is 1/3.5th of the focal length, or about 5mm. The other number 5.6 means at the higher focal length (135mm) the maximum aperture opening is 1/5.6th of the focal length, or about 24mm.

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See link below-