140 horsepower

next to the oil filter

purchase a flux-capacitor and install into the 240.can not be cheap eBay capacitor. Unlike the Deloran, you must be drifting at 88 mph

Nissan.

Most likely it's due to bad thermostat. I had the same problem - it would take long to warm up. That is because the thermostat was always open. It's cheap and easy fix.

behind the plastic in the passenger side foot space on the right (behind the light) there are 3 screws holding the plastic on

Try the engine end of the upper radiator hose in a removable housing

Craigslist, search for "ka24de"

clutch fan. replace it and it should stop. I had the same problem.

4 quarts

Step 1:

Rev Engine. Try not to rev too high, or you may cause damage.

Step 2:

Dump the clutch. This is achieved by quickly depressing the clutch pedal.

Step 3:

Try not to die. Because you have to ask how to do a burnout you probably lack the technique to perform the simplest of driving tasks. Actually, you should probably just stop driving all together.

You can buy the repair CD at many places but I will copy mine if you pay postage. Tomballpi@gmail.com

or you can go to http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi there is another site where you can download this entire manual but i cant find it now, you can print whatever you need off of here, and it is for non turbo models also

1. Remove clutch pedal assembly from car. 2. Remove fulcrum bolt. 3. Install clutch assist spring. 4. Align fulcrum (say, with a screwdriver tip). 5. Insert fulcrum bolt. 6. Reinstall clutch pedal assembly.

4.08

ALWAYS DISSCONNECT BATTERY TERMINALS (SO AIR BAGS DONT GO OFF)first YOU MUST PULL the entire DASH to get the the heater core housing located behind the stereo...ill see about getting u some diagrams...anywho in the engine compartment at the firewall a little to the passager side where the brakelines coming from the master cycinlder head south (just to the right) are the 2 heater hoses that are attached to the heater core remove these with a a Phillips head screw driver and disconnect hoses. when this is done and the ENTIRE DASH HAS BEEN REMOVED u will see the 3 pecies that consist of ur heating system the one on ur far left is the one ur after it is behind where the stereo was and houses the heater core u only want to remove this because the one to the right houses the evaporting core for ur a/c and it costs about 350-400 to get ur ac recharged (not to mention the gases in side are toxic and more the cold enough to burn u)

after u have removed the heater core install the new one and do everything above in the reverse orderwhen that's done youll need to bleed the cooling system. first add antifrezeze at the rad. until its filled then let the car run intill it gets up to normal temp (196 degrees F) leave the rad. cap off while doing this. after car has reached temp turn off engine refill rad. and reinstall rad cap. then besure the resavoir is full (located beside the passager strut tower)and start engine. when at nomarl oparateing temp...there is a 10mm bleeding screw on the top of the thermostat housing open only until u have fuild/ air coming out and leave open for about 3min or until u have continuous fuild NO AIR and retighten.

well think that's it enjoy and good luck (you'll need a full day to do this)

# who knows there was a world record of like 16 people but it would be dificult

NO

its the same car

Have 91 Nissan 240sx. I'm so frustrated, this car used to run so beautifully and oh boy she's fun to drive, but now it's just one problem after another after taking her to get fixed.

At first had a problem with the car misfiring and white smoke coming from exhaust. Took it to the repair shop where she was diagnosed with a bad fuel injector. Had the fuel injector replaced along with replacing the spark plugs, wires (which had melted from the engine shaking so bad due to the injector), distributor, router, all that stuff - full tune up. Then all hell broke loose on this car. The car started having the same problem, so I took it back to the shop and another fuel injector was the problem. So then I have all of the fuel injectors replaced. After the mechanics had replaced them all and started her up, she kept blowing O rings. They fixed those. After that, the mechanics couldn't get her to start. Well, in goes a new starter. By the way, that new starter grinds half of the time when I start her up. After that, the battery cable went bad and I had to replace it.

All of that said, we have yet another problem. She has begun to leak oil - lots of it. I can't tell where it is leaking from, but I do know it's leaking all over the place underneath the motor and there is oil coming from the muffler when she starts up (head gasket maybe?). Also spuratically getting a really bad shake while driving, have to slow down and let go of the steering wheel to make it stop or else it just gets worse.

I'm not ready to give up on her yet, though. I've already spent $1,500 fixing the problems listed above which is probably stupid. The question is - Is it worth fixing whatever is wrong with it now or should I just get a new motor for her?

Nissan's swirl control valve (SCV) is an actuator that modulates intake air flow into the engine to increase low and high engine speed efficiency. The SCV does this by constricting the intake opening during idling and low engine speeds. This constriction creates a vortex effect of spiraling air ensuring better fuel vaporization and ultimately thus combustion. During higher engine speeds, the engine computer modulates the SCV to open up which reduces intake air restriction allowing for more power under throttle.