Shotguns

The .410 brings more than the 12ga or 20ga, but still tops out at $100-$125 if in excellent condition. sales@countrygunsmith.net

Sears store brand name for a Stevens Model 520 A. Value depends on condition - average price of 150 Made @ sometime in the late 30's or ealry 40's as best I can estimate.

You can put the barel from a 1200 onto the the rest of a 1400 mk2. It chambers fires and ejects fine. I built my pump using a piece of steel pipe ground for clearance and drilled one hole to run the pin through. Then I epoxied a wood foregrip to said pipe. This was a couple old grandpa guns left to rust when he got demented. Cut lengths to an inch over the legal thresholds. Now its a decent little " hidden on top of the China hutch" home defender in case a burglar is between me and my bedroom.

50-100 or so

About $175.00 for single shot models and about $200.00 for repeater models

From the serial number and being a 7 shot, I'd guess this one to be an early H&R 22 SPECIAL hinged frame, fixed sight revolvers dating from around 1927-29. Value: In v.good to Excellent - these sell in the $285 to $315 range. Fair condition around $150.

"Can a Winchester Model 50 full choke be used with steel shot?" I have a Winchester Model 50, 28in steel barrel, 2 3/4 in chamber and full choke. I also shoot the Remington 1100 with an Improved Cylinder. Generally you do not want to shoot "steel" shot out of a full choke unless the gun was designed for that, which the Model 50 I don't believe was. The reason being, steel does not compress like lead and the uncompressed steel can cause stress on the barrel when the shot tries the cram through the full choke, it causes more restriction and the barrel can crack or even blow apart. I have used 2 3/4in #4 steel shot in my Model 50 and have not seen any streaks on the interior of the barrel, no obstructions and no barrel stress. I have put a lot of shells through it too. I the #4 seems like it has more room to move then a #2 shot so I am sticking with that. My Remington 1100 however is made for steel shot, has an Improved Cylinder and has actually shown signs of barrel obstructions using 2 3/4 #2 steel shot. So the table has totally flipped on me. The full choke is doing great with steel shot and the IC almost blew on me. Maybe the steel grade barrel on my Model 50 is making the difference, I don't know, but it looks great still, looks a lot better than my 1100. I am thinking of selling the 1100 and buying the Nova Pump from Benelli, I hear great things about that gun but have never duck hunted with a pump. I hope this helps a little.

1970's-1980's probably.

It would top out at $250 as a mantle decoration. Unless you mean a Parker Brothers shotgun. Then it could be several thousand dollars.

I bought a 16 ga AYA box lock serial 836##, circa 1955-56. I don't know the model. It's single trigger with selective ejectors, with some minor chasing around the barrels and action. It has obviously been resting in someones closet for years and the action is now soaking in a bath of mineral spirits. The condistion was pretty good and the price reflected the work needed to bring it back to working state. The shotgun was usable as purchased and represented what the market was. I gave 389$

WH Davenport, initially, which was taken over by Hopkins & Allen in 1901.

c.1905-1915.

About $125-150 in excellent condition. They could be originally purchased in the late 70's for $74.95

50-200 USD depending on condition.

If you can separate the barrel, magazine, and forearm from the frame without using any tools, it is a takedown model. True enough, but a little short on details.

The takedown '94 is most easily identified by the folding lever on the underside of the magazine tube. This lever is pivoted to 90 degrees from the bore (or parallel to the muzzle), then used as a "wrench" to rotate the magazine tube a number of turns (counterclockwise as viewed from the "scary end"). After several turns, the mag tube can be withdrawn to the front a short distance. At this point, you pivot the whole front end of the rifle 90 degrees (can't remember which way, but you'll figure it out) and remove the front end from the receiver.

$150-$250 depending on age and condition. The side lever tends to be worth more than the others especially if it is an older model. These are USA made and are high quality weapons. The wood and metal that is used in production is top of the line.

All Citoris were/are made in Japan, and that is not the full serial number. There are three more numbers and two letters. Value depends mainly on the features and condition. Early Citoris with fixed chokes are not as desireable as later Citoris with choke tubes. Field and Trap guns are not as desireable as Lightning and Superlight models. Based on the information you provided, anywhere between $550 and $1000.

Keystone firearms were made by the Davenport Firearms Co. in the late 1800's. They were, I believe, inexpensive guns made to be sold either by mail order or through your local hardware store. Unless it is in very very good condition it value would probably not be more than $150 or so, and then only to be used as a wall hanger. One should be very careful about firing any damascus barreled gun, this is especially so with inexpensive firearms from that era.

Only condition can set a price for this gun. Typically these guns with a normal amount of handling marks and finish loss, will fall in the 85-90% bracket of remaining finish. Light 12's will run $400-$1000 depending. Mint in Box could go upwards to $1500+

Please provide all the markings exactly as they are stamped on the gun. The information you have provided does not match any Browning product. sales@countrygunsmith.net

Depends on if it is plain or ventilated rib, $600 to $700.

1930's.

Depending on condition and variables such as ventilated rib or AccuChoke, from $100-$200. sales@countrygunsmith.net

The gun was manufactured by either Crescent Fire Arms Co (1893-1932) or Hunter Arms Co (1890-1945). If by "coach gun" you mean it has barrels shorter than 28", that modification was probably done in the 1950s or later by someone trying to make an "old west collectible" from an ordinary shotgun.

If you want the gun correctly identified, please list ALL the markings visible. In any event, single-barrel shotguns such as this one top out less than $100. sales@countrygunsmith.net