A fusable link is exactly like the old fashioned household fuse. You make a fusabling link by cutting the wire and inserting a small length of wire 2 wire sizes smaller (I believe its two, don't quote me.) So if the wire is 12 gauge, put in a small length of 14 gauge. (A 14 gauge wire is small than 12 gauge) Make sure you use stranded insulated wire that is meant for cars and that you use the mechanical connectors with insulation built onto them (usually blue) that you attach to the wire by using a crimping tool. I think the length of the fuse should be about 1 inch to about 1.5 inches. Wrap it with plenty of black electrician's tape. If the fuse does burn out (which you want it to if there is too much current going through the wire) the black tape will protect the wire from shorting out to the body of the car, which cause you real problems.
yes but will need to know the year, make and engine size.
Any time a fuse link burns out one should suspect a LARGE short condition in the harness. Shut off all accessories and pull all fuses from the fuse panel. Take NOTES or replacement will be a pain. Disconnect battery if connected, Use a DVM and check the resistance of each accessory at the fuse side to ground. A low or zero ohm condition indicates trouble in that circuit. Also check from the alternator B+ to the alternator body. A low reading here would make one suspect the alternator has an internal short. Also check for a failed/shorted starter cable or starter.
Make sure your connnections are tight on your battery. Make sure the ground wire is secure. Also, make sure the positive connection is secure on the starter, & check all other connections to the starter, check for bad wires going to the starter. Also, check all of your fuses. Be sure to check ALL grounds. The battery's and the engine's. The engine has two, or more. The starter has it's own. The battery's, of course. Sometimes oil and grime get in between the ground wires and it's posts on both the battery, and engine. Also, check the straps that connect the engine to the chassis. Some positive cables will incorporate a fusible link coming from the battery.....check. These tips are if there is no power even to your lights. If it's just your ignition, then that's a little more complicated.
starter motor, fuel pump, alternator, (possibly ECU) and battery need to be attached and wired up properly, be careful and make sure your engine stand can withstand all the vibrations
Make sure the retaining bolts are removed. Take a rubber mallet and tap on the alternator to free it from its position.
if the car is rear wheel drive, sounds like a u-joint. If it is front wheel drive, sounds like a cv joint. It could also be your engine mounts wearing out. If the rubber insulation has worn out then the engine will shift slightly against the mount and make a clunking noise. This happened on my 96 Nissan Quest minivan.
There should be 12 volts or close to it at the alternator b+ terminal. Possibly a wiring problem,fried fusible link wire or a blown fuse depending on vehicle make and model. Check for blown fuses or check at the starter solenoid for fried fusible link wiring. Some makes ,the PCM computer regulates the voltage...possible PCM problem,again depending on vehicle make..... You didnt specify what kind of vehicle this is...Year,make,model,engine size.... Doc J
My suggestion is to make sure that you have a good connection between your starter and your battery. Is the starter even functioning? If not, it is probably a bad starter, a bad battery, a bad fusible link for the starter, a blown fuse, or just a bad connection. My suggestion is to make sure that you have a good connection between your starter and your battery. Is the starter even functioning? If not, it is probably a bad starter, a bad battery, a bad fusible link for the starter, a blown fuse, or just a bad connection.
So, what you're saying is that your car isn't charging the battery since you changed the starter... is that right. If so, my guess is that you accidently left off or possibly even burned out the fusible link between the battery cable and the alternator. If this is the case, that's why it won't charge. So, make sure yoiu've still got a connection between the wire between your battery cable at the starter and the alternator. So, what you're saying is that your car isn't charging the battery since you changed the starter... is that right. If so, my guess is that you accidently left off or possibly even burned out the fusible link between the battery cable and the alternator. If this is the case, that's why it won't charge. So, make sure yoiu've still got a connection between the wire between your battery cable at the starter and the alternator.
Alternator output fuse or fusible link under the hood, I can't believe the people that don't state make, model, year and engine size before posting a question.
A fusible link is the same as a fuse in that it is to protect an electrical circuit. It will not cause a car to stall. Check the throttle plate and be sure it is clean.
No
Any time a fuse link burns out one should suspect a LARGE short condition in the harness. Shut off all accessories and pull all fuses from the fuse panel. Take NOTES or replacement will be a pain. Disconnect battery if connected, Use a DVM and check the resistance of each accessory at the fuse side to ground. A low or zero ohm condition indicates trouble in that circuit. Also check from the alternator B+ to the alternator body. A low reading here would make one suspect the alternator has an internal short. Also check for a failed/shorted starter cable or starter.
Check the thick negative wire going from the battery to the body and the engine block and make sure it is securely attached. The thick positive wire from the battery is a fusible link. Check there is 12v at the starter motor end. If no volts, change whole wire for a new fusible link from a motor factor.
a defective starter switch
A dead short to ground.
check your alternator or make sure the starter is on correctly
Answerdouble check you work , make sure everything was reconected in to their rightful place . try checking for power at the starter. try it with a remote starter if that works the problem may be with the switch or somewhere along that line. also try removing all the spark plugs and try to turn the engine over watch that nothing comes out thru the spark plug holes if anything comes out you may have a rare but possible hydro lock.("water lock") this happens when too much antifreeze falls in to the cilynders preventing the pistons from moving. THESTARTING SYSTEM CONSISTS OF THE 1) BATTERY, 2) STARTER MOTOR, 3) SOLENOID, 4) IGN. SWITCH, 5) CIRCUIT PROTECTION AND 6) THE WIRING. IN AUTOMATICS, THERE IS AN INHIBITER SWITCH LOCATED IN HE "PARK-NEUTRAL" SAFETY SWITCH OR "TR SENSOR" (TRANSMISSION RANGE) TO PREVENT STARTING IN GEAR.CHECK THE STARTER CONNECTIONS-MAKE SURE THE SOLENOID WIRE IS GOOD AND CONNECTED (TIGHTLY). CHECK UNDER THE HOOD IN THE FUSIBLE LINK BOX. THE #1 IS A 30A IGNITION SWITCH FUSIBLE LINK. DURING YOUR WORK ON THE STARTER, IF THE BATTEY WAS NOT DISCONNECTED, YOU MAY HAVE "GROUNDED OUT THE STARTER OR ACCIDENTLY TOUCHED THE BATTERY WIRE TO THE SWITCH LINK AND "BLOWN" THE FUSIBLE LINK.THE ENGINE NOT "TURNING" OVER MEANS THAT THERE IS A CURRENT "INTERRUPTION" TO THE STARTER MOTOR. REMEMBER HERE-WHEN YOU TURN THE IGN. KEY, A 12V SIGNAL IS SENT TO THE SOLENOID TO ENGAGE AND THEN THE STARTER MOTOR GETS A 12V POWER FROM THE BATTERY TO POWER THE STARTER.. IF YOU FOLLOW THE WIRING IN THE SYSTEM, YOU WILL SEE THAT THERE IS A WIRE OFF THE + SIDE OF THE BATTERY TO THE FUSIBLE LINK BOX THAT GOES TO THE 30A LINK. THE WIRE THAT LEADS FROM THE LINK GOES TO THE STARTER. IF THIS LINK IS BAD, THE STARTER IS DEAD WHEN THE KEY IS TURNED.