How do you adjust the parking brake on a 1987 Pontiac Fiero?
You know the Murphy's Law about when you assume something? It works really good on a Fiero. Raise the rear of the vehicle. Remove both rear wheels and watch the action of the park brake levers on the calipers as a helper pulls the hand brake lever inside of the vehicle. Do both levers move approximately the same distance? Are both return springs in good condition? They should push the levers back to the stops on the calipers. If yes, then the cable adjustment (located at the rear of the cradle frame) is probably OK. Since the park brake auto-adjustment mechanism is located inside of the rear caliper piston, it cannot be viewed. Pull the Park Brake lever inside of the vehicle as far as it will go. Pump up the brake pedal until it has a hard pedal. Release the park brake. Repeat about three times. If the auto-adjuster is working properly, you should see an improvement in Park Brake operation.
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There is no adjustment possible for the clutch pedal on the Pontiac Fiero. The earlier design pedals were problematic in that they could bend, preventing full disengagement of the clutch. You may also have a problem in the hydraulic system for the clutch. Check the fluid level in the clutch master c…ylinder reservoir. This is the small, cylindrical reservoir on the driver's side of the front compartment. It is possible that you have a fluid leak in the clutch system. This can cause the same problems as an improperly adjusted clutch pedal on vehicles with an adjustable pedal. You may also have a defective master or slave cylinder. I suggest picking up a service manual at your local auto parts store, they go through everything the average car owner needs to know about their specific vehicle including extensive information on inspecting, repairing, and replacing clutch components. You don't necessarily need to replace your clutch pedal if it is bent. Rodney Dickman (www.rodneydickman.com) sells an adjustable banjo that will fix your problem. It also allows fine adjustment for perfect disengagement. If you want the pedal replacement go to www.fierostore.com. In any case, make sure your hydraulic system is working properly before messing around with the pedal. Good luck! If you have further questions, I suggest looking through the archives at Pennock's Fiero Forum (www.fiero.nl) by using the search feature. You can also post in the Technical Discussions & Questions section. The people there are very helpful and you should get a response within a day if not hours or minutes. -Steven (MORE)
You don't. You replace the worn out rear break shoes. If that doesn't do it you need to replace the stretched E brake cable.
Answer . Under the dash, either on the brake pedal's arm itself, or to the support structure..
I suppose it depends what year Corolla you are talking about. I have a '93 and it's pretty easy. First remove the center flip-top compartment between the driver and passenger front seats. There are four screws at the bottom of the inside of the compartment, under the piece of carpet. Next you remove… the plastic piece surrounding the parking break by taking out two screws. They are on the lower sides close to where the plastic meets the carpet. One on the driver's side and the other on the passenger side. This piece can then be removed by carefully separating the plastic clips connecting it to the piece around the gear shifter. You may have to first pop out the square plastic piece surrounding the sifter. Now you should be able to see where the parking brake lever goes down underneath the car. There is a long bolt here with two nuts on it. Loosen the top nut and bring it up away from the second nut. The lower nut can now be tightened or loosened to put more or less tension on the parking brake cable. Adjust it and test the brake until it feels fairly stiff after about 4 clicks. DO NOT overtighten the lower nut as I did stripping the bolt and creating a whole new problem. Repeat the above in reverse order to make your car look nice again. Best done with the rear wheels up off the ground to make sure the brakes are not binding after adjustment. (MORE)
Fiero Brakes You first must buy a tool from GM (not preferably due to price) or from the auto parts store (defiantly less expensive then dealer) wich turns the caliper.This tool sort of looks like a steel cube with little nubs sticking out here and there.This tool fits on a regular ratchet and the …little nubs on the tool fit directly into your caliper. You then proceed to turn your caliper like it was a bolt until it is completely in then just install your brakes just like the front, bot make sure you allign your nubs on the back of your brake shoe to the indentions on your caliper. (MORE)
Answer . \nI don't know if this helps, but the fuel filter is located under the car. Since the fuel tank is between the seats I would say it is located slightly aft of the tank. I had my mechanic replace mine so can't tell you how to stop fuel flow, etc.
On most newer model trucks, there is an adjustment bolt just in front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side. Look for where one cable splits into two cables.. On most newer model trucks, there is an adjustment bolt just in front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side. Look for where one ca…ble splits into two cables. (MORE)
Answer . \nGosh, I hate to respond when I'm not really sure, but most parking brakes adjust either at the rear of the handle in the cab, (remove the plastic console to get at it) or at the rear of the car where the cable that activates the parking brake is located. \nMy suggestion is to pick up …a Chilton or Haynes manual at your local parts store. It will describe and show you in detail how to do it.\n. \nFriPilot (MORE)
Fiero Engine Compartment . Don't be insulted by this, but I assume you know the engine is in the back, where most cars have a trunk, so it is opened either with the same key that unlocks the doors or with the button on the dash, to the right of the steering wheel near the top, left area of the pa…rt where the radio is located.. If you thought the engine was in the front of the car, that compartment is opened by a lever under the dash, just below the heater vent to the left of the steering wheel. (MORE)
Answer . First make sure rear service brakes are adjusted properly. Parking brake adjustment should either be at the junction of the three cable under vehicle or at the parking brake handle (May have to remove trim to access)
Answer . First make sure the service brakes are adjusted properly. Adjustment will either be at the junction of the 3 cables under the vehicle or at the pedal itself. Set pedal at 3 clicks and the wheels should be locked at that point
Simply Adjustment 1 The hand brake adjustment is inside the plastic cover just over the hand brake lever. Use a Philips screw driver to unscrew the short screw then pull the 2-part covers apart then remove. Look down toward the floor direction and you will see a cable ending with a slot like end. …To tighten the parking brake, use a large flat end screw driver, turn clockwise. The manual suggests 7~9 clicks to lock the rear brake. Simple Adjustment 2 The hand brake or parking brake is supposed to be self-adjusting. Thus if you turn the adjustment screw clockwise and you pulled the handbrake lever with all your might still unable to lock the rear wheels you can do the next thing before getting your hands dirty. Turn the adjustment screw counter clockwise, yes loosen it. I suggest you put the car on the drive way with a slight incline or decline when you do this. Pump the brake several times. Now pull up the handbrake while letting go of the pedal. The lever should be easier to pull. Else repeat loosen-and-pump procedure. Then use the screw driver to turn the adjuster clockwise so that the rear wheel will lock at 7~9 clicks. Put back the plastic covers for the lever and replace the screw. If the easy fix does not work, something is probably wrong. Read the following: Adjustment 3 (Gloves and wrenches apply) There is a bolt with a 14mm head on the back of each rear caliper. Actually there are two bolts of this size, one holds the bracket for the handbrake, one unscrews to gain access to the caliper adjuster. Pull the one covering the adjuster (don't worry, no fluid should come out!) and you will find an Allen type adjusting screw. It takes a 4mm wrench to turn it. The technique is to (with the handbrake off) turn the adjuster in (clockwise) while rotating the brake rotor by hand. As soon as it stops or you feel a heavy drag, stop and back the adjuster off 1/3 turn. Make sure that the rotor now turns freely. Reinstall the 14mm bolt and repeat the procedure on the other side. *If* your Allen bolt strips.....Don't panic! You can use a magnet or a snap ring pliers (stick the points in the socket of the Allen bolt and expand to grab the adjuster) to get the damaged adjuster out. When you get it out you will see that the teeth on the adjuster are ground up. Either file or grind the damaged end 'til it's cleaned up, grease it up and reinstall. A little spray grease whenever you're adjusting is always a good idea and will help prevent this problem in the first place. Also: Underneath your vehicle, a steel threaded cable comes from the back of one hub and is joined by a short cable from the other hub--then the original cable runs to a threaded end with an adjuster nut in it--and one smaller nut on the end outside of that--(this is the equalizer bar)--you'll see it real close to your transmission. You might have to jack-up the back of the vehicle??? Pull the parking brake lever up sharply and then release it. Pull the parking brake lever to the second click and leave it there. You're looking for a slight drag of the brake shoes when you spin the wheels. To increase the drag, get under at the equalizer bar and turn the adjusting nut to take up the slack in the cables. Get out and spin the rear wheels if you think it's to tight. I will say don't be afraid to crank on it for a while as in this case, a little adjustment really does not go a long way. When you think you have the drag right, go back in the car and pull the brake up the the fourth click. At this point the wheels should be locked and you should not be able to turn them even when trying hard. If you can, tighten them up a little more. Once you've done this, release the brake and make sure the wheels spin freely. If they are still binding due to the parking brake, back off the adjustment a little. And that's basically the whole adjustment procedure. (MORE)
First, verify that rear brake is adjusted properly. If drum brake, turn the each adjuster wheel (inside drum at bottom) until brake drags slightly, then back off (reverse direction) three clicks. If adjuster will not turn, repair or replace as needed. If equipped with rear disc, rear brakes au…to adjust unless pads are incorrectly installed or calipers are damaged. Then, locate parking brake adjuster inline with parking brake cable. Turn adjustment until cable has some but very little tension and is not slack, but not so tight as to apply the brake. (MORE)
First, verify that you do not have any missing parking brake shoe linings. It is extremely common on a trailblazer for one or more of the parking brakes shoe linings to become dislodged and disintegrate. With a missing lining, normal operation of the parking brake cannot be achieved. Next, Raise …the rear wheels off the ground. Set the 4WD to 2WD mode. Shift into Neutral. Verify that the parking brake control is set to off. Remove the rear wheels, brake calipers, and brake rotors. The parking brake shoes at each wheel will now be exposed. Separating the shoes is a cylindrical object with a gear-like bit near it's middle. This object is called the adjuster. Rotate the adjuster gear in one direction to lengthen the adjuster, the other direction to shorten it. A longer adjuster tightens the parking brake. The parking brake should be adjusted as tight as will not drag at all when the rotor is in place. With the parking brake set to three clicks on, you should not be able to turn the wheel by hand. (MORE)
There are two reasons. The first is the bulbs in the lamps could beblown or the fuse that run them are blown.
1. Release the parking brake pedal to make sure it is disengaged. Put your Ford Taurus in "N" for neutral.. Step2. Raise your Ford Taurus rear wheels in the air using your jack and support the rear wheels with the jack stands.. Step3. Get underneath the vehicle and locate the parking brake cabl…es. There is a cable coming from each rear wheel and meet in the middle with an adjuster nut.. Step4. Use the cable tension gauge 021-00018 or another tension gauge to measure the parking brake adjuster nut against the rear parking brake cable adjuster. Follow your tension gauge instructions to measure 18 to 26 pounds of tension for your 1996 year Ford Taurus and 34 to 46 pounds of tension for your years 1997 to 1998 Ford Taurus.. Step5. Press in on the parking brake foot pedal to the ground and then release the parking brake pedal.. Step6. Verify the rear wheels spin freely when the parking brake pedal is fully released.. Step7. Lower your Ford Taurus using the jack and remove the jack stands from the rear wheels. (MORE)
Don't know what year model your Ranger is, but if it is between 1993-2005: The parking brake on all models is completely self-adjusting. No means of manual adjustment is provided. - Haynes Repair Manual #36071, 1993-2005 Ford Ranger Pick-ups. Also includes 1994-2005 Mazda Pick-ups, B-Series.
Experts recommend removing the entire console by initially raisingand supporting the vehicle. According to the owner's manual"release the parking brake fully, remove the console mat and openlid, loosen the adjustment nut, observe the lever on the rear brakecaliper contacts the arm, pull the brake le…ver, tighten theadjustment nut until the brakes drag slightly, release the leverfully and make sure it is within the specified number of clicks inthe range of 6-8, and close the lid." (MORE)
There is no pat answer to this question. First need to know which year and model is referenced. Some F150s such as 2004 and later have a disk and drum combo on the rear axle. These have a "piece of junk" cam action that rusts solid in a few years. If the parking brake is depressed at the wrong time …the cam will lock the parking brake shoes against the drum and take the drum and brakes shoes out. Since the drum and rotor are a one piece combo, you will have a nice repair bill. Probably need to take the unit apart every 20K or so, clean it up and lube the cam levers. My truck had less than 20K on in when I found the cam levers rusted together so solidly that I had to hammer them apart. I painted my parts with galvanize paint and then lubed the pivot point with anti-seize. In answer to this question of adjustment, on these trucks, there is an adjustment spool similar to those used in the standard drum brake systems. It can be accessed from the back side of the drum cover through a plugged hole also the same as a standard drum brake system. (MORE)
there were only fire problems in the 1984 4cyl fieros, not any of the later years
You just drive in reverse and stop a few times. It has a self adjusting mechanism but is only activated when stopping while going backwards.
the emergency brakes are drum type brakes inside the rear brake disk on each wheel.if you know how o adjust drum brakes it is the same adjustment for emergency brake on this vehicle.. on the back of the drum there is a small rubber cap. remove this cap and with a flat screwdriver or adjuster tool, …you turn the the serated wheel inside the brake drum to adjust the brake shoes out till nearly touching the brake drum. it is best to do this with the rear wheels jacked up off the ground, so you can spin the wheel while adjusting.. by spinning wheel you will feel when brake shoe is starting to slow wheel and you will then know to stop adjusting.. do this on both wheels. if you over adjust you will burn brakes out and have to replace brake shoes. this is a pain as you have to remove the disk brake caliper and rotoar to get at the emergency brake. (MORE)
There is a compartment box between the driver seat and the passenger seat. At the bottom of the box you can find the adjusting nut.
Not hard at all! First, adjust your rear brakes properly. Once this is done, locate the Emgcy Brake cable (y shaped cable running from front to both rear wheels) There is a turnbuckle on the cable, you simply hold the cable with a wrench and turn the turnbuckle to tighten it up. Shoot for 4 or 5 …clicks (about 30 percent) on the lever before it starts getting *tight*. If you adjust it too tight, it will wear your brakes prematurely and cause your gas mileage to drop-and possibly other bad things. I'm not a mechanic, but I've done this before some years ago. (MORE)
there is a ajustment nut in back of gas tank where the cable splits to go to each rear wheel you can get to it better if you remove left side tire.use wd-40 onit sometimes it is frozen up.there is also ajustmemnts on each wheel where e-brake shoes are.have to remove calipers caliper brackets roters …to get to e-brake area .the new e-brake shoes are about 75.00and you have to remove wheel hub to do it ! (MORE)
There is not a simple way to explain it but in short here is some info.Your parking brake should click 7-12 for 87 models and if it does not u can adjust it where the cable ties the left and right cable underneath the truck near the transmission on the driver side.It has a Y type assembly and make s…ure the parking brake is off and it has a adjusting jam nut.U simply loosen the nut b4 the assembly and move the nut on the inside of the assembly in or out to tighten/loosen it.I would highly recommend buying a haynes or chiltons manual that has pics to show this and if ur rear brakes are old I would also pull the drums off to see that ur shoes are not worn out/and drums are not scared with scratches or grooves into the metal.If ur brake shoes are low on meaning less surface I would recommend to replace them and get ur drums machined at a machine shop or replace them if they show alot of wear.Worn shoes affects the parking brake because the over time it will create slack in the cables bc with less brake shoe suface the cable stretches farther and make it seem weak or u pull it further to set the brake.Check ur rear brake shoes/drums first if you have alot of miles on them,bc if they do adjusting the cables may just be a waste of time as a result.I just in nov 08 replaced my rear drums and shoes and believe me it makes all the difference.The drums were the originals and I have had the trk since new in march of 87.Hope this book gives you some insight. (MORE)
There are two real ways: 1st my favorite way, Drag the car into a heated garage overnight.Pour 1/2 gallon or 2 liters of gas line antifreeze into the tankand hope that cures the problem. 2nd Pour 1/2 gallon of gas line antifreeze into the gas tank waitan hour and pray. If the car wont start come b…ack in 1/2 an hourrand try again. If it still wont start you have to follow proceedure#1 (MORE)
its very easy , just one scroll behind the caliper you have to adjust , it takes 10 minutes
The engine runs fast, won't idle down, and many times the exhaust manifolds will glow red hot from the lean mixture.
couldn't be simpler: 123456. Number 1 plug is right rear of vehicle, when facing front.. Right bank is 1,3,5. Left, hard to reach bank is 2,4,6. often diagrammed like this:. 6 4 2. @. 5 3 1. where the @ symbol represents the distributor, viewed from above at rear of vehicle facing forward.
There are two possibilities, one if it's a lever type it is under the lever itself. Pull it up & look inside and you can usually see the adjusting screw. Two if its a foot pedal type it is adjusted at the rear-end by the wheels. If it's a two thousand five and already needs adjusted I'd say someone …is not disengaging it completely or not at all before they drive. (MORE)
Place a pan under the drain valve on the radiator (back side of the radiator, right side) Reach up and open the valve letting the coolant out. (It is meant to be turned by hand, but you might need a pliers) After the coolant has started draining open the radiator cap to allow air into the radiator. …Go back to the engine and open the thermostat cap (Large cap that looks like a radiator cap, has a two step turn - push and turn again removal) . Remove the thermostat located under the cap by grabbing it, turning it to break the seal and pulling it up. . To fill - close the drain valve on the radiator. Leave the radiator cap off and start filling by pouring the coolant into the (still open) thermostat cap. Note - the thermostat needs to be still removed. Have an assistant watch at the radiator and when it gets full he needs to quickly put the radiator cap back on. Then continue to fill at the thermostat cap till the engine is full. Now start the car and let the coolant circulate, refilling at the thermostat cap when the coolant has dropped. After the car has warmed up, and all of the coolant bubbles have come out, fill the coolant to the top of the thermostat cap housing, replace the thermostat and cap and fill the reserve tank to the warm mark. (MORE)
It is the same as any other GM 60 degree V6, and the most common V6 firing order: 1-2-3-4-5-6 It's easy to remember because it's the same as the combination to the lock on my...nevermind... If you've been hanging around Fords too long and you number your cylinders incorrectly, that is the sa…me firing order that you're accustomed to calling 1-4-2-5-3-6. (MORE)
I am assuming you mean the wiper arms - They just pry up off the posts. There is no "release" on them. They should pry up using a large screw driver. Try to hold the spring tension off of the post so they come up straight and don't bind.
There is no clutch adjustment. The clutch is hydralic and therefore needs no adjustment. If the clutch isn't working correctly you most likely have to bleed the clutch line.
Assuming you are speaking of the front hood, and not the rear engine cover, yes, the 1987 hood will fit the 1984 Notchback. All front hoods are the same, 1984 through 1988. There is a vast parts interchangeability including exterior, interior, electrical, chassis, engine, and transmission, with the …84 through 87 models. Some changes were made in 1988, for instance larger brake rotors, better suspension, etc. so not as many parts are interchangeable with the 1988 and the other years. (MORE)
The slave cylinder is on top of the engine, under the intake ducting. The bleeder screw is on top Bleed the same way as brakes. There are many ways to to this. My preferred method: 1: Park on level ground. 2: Set the (known working) parking brake firmly or block the right rear wheel. 3:… Position the spare tire jack somewhat forward of the normal left side jacking point. About 3 or 4 inches from the forward edge of the left side rocker panel flange is good. 4: Raise the jack until the left front corner raises about 2 inches or so. A little more is okay too. 5: With the rear hatch (trunk lid, rear deck, rear hood) open, remove the air intake hose leading to the air cleaner. 6: Completely remove the bleeder screw from the slave cylinder. Verify that the screw is clean and the holes are not clogged. Clean or replace as necessary. Rinse and air dry first with carb cleaner, then water. Coat with brake fluid, then reinstall. 7: With the front hatch open, remove the cap from the clutch fluid reservoir and fill with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. DOT4 would also work, but isn't needed. Do not use DOT5. Leave the cap off for now. 8: Open the bleeder screw. Use a length of transparent, or at least translucent rubber hose to connect the bleeder to a hand operated vacuum pump. 9: Pump slowly four or five times. If you see no fluid enter the hose: check the fluid level at the reservoir (and top off) then repeat this step. 10: Pump the hand operated vacuum pump slowly until fluid flowing through the hose gets close to the pump. 11: Remove the hose from both the bleeder and the pump at the same time. 12: From this point on, remember to check the brake fluid level frequently and don't let it run low. 13: Watch that brake fluid flows (probably slowly and possibly with air bubbles) for a few minutes. If there is no flow, there is a problem in the system and bleeding won't fix it. 14: Close first the bleeder, then the cap. 15: Rinse away all spilled brake fluid with water. Use about ten times as much water as you think you need. 16: Put everything away, including the jack and air hose. (MORE)
Back the car onto a set of ramps The cable behind the rear cross member of the engine cradle is the park brake cables. Tighten to tighten adjustment and loosen to loosen Be careful: the common problem are seized cables and faulty calipers.
The adjustments are pretty obvious on the the top of the transmission under the air intake and exhaust plumbing.
The adjustments are pretty obvious on the the top of the transmission under the air intake and exhaust plumbing.
The adjustments are pretty obvious on the the top of the transmission under the air intake and exhaust plumbing.
You move the AC compressor and the alternator to adjust tension. Has to be done from under car.
It requires that two terminals in the diagnostic connector be shorted and the engine run with an inductive timing light. As the engine computer can be damaged by the incorrect shorting of terminals I recommend getting a manual or a printout of a manual that shows the correct way to do this.
2.5 four came in the 4 cyl cars 2.8 V6 came in V6 cars V6 Bolt in replacements: . 2.8 from any front drive GM . 3.1 from any front drive GM but requires changing all covers pans etc . 3.4 Crate motors used to be available from GM Requires drilling starter bolt holes. Engine swaps: . 3.4 front …drive engines, requires changing to 2.8 heads and custom push rod length . Quad four engine. Substantial wiring, computer, mount and clutch modifications . Old aluminum Cadillac V8 again requires substantial modification and will need relocation of transmission . 3.8 V6, most common is super charged. No difficult clearance issues. Need substantial wiring and exhaust rework. Mounts need to be built and either use automatic trans or special order clutch needed (This is mine) . Northstar Cadillac V8 Really sweet runner. Big job. . Chevy Small block. This swap produces the fastest Fiero. solid 10 second 1/4s with no drama. This swap requires rework for substantial side to side clearance issues. Special clutches and adapter kits. Fuel injection requires substantial wiring rework. (MORE)
3.4 GM engines will fit quite easily with only changes in starter mounting, covers and the like. The 3.8 liter series I, II, III engines will fit nicely and work with the original transmissions with a little modification, wiring and computer modification and mount fabrication. The supercharged versi…on really makes the car go! The V8 Swap is the ultimate power trip, but a much more difficult swap. (MORE)
All fieros have the alternator located low on the passenger side rear corner of the engine V6 engines are almost impossible to service the alternator from above.
There is no idler pulley on this year Fiero so you must mean Idle Speed. It is most likely that if the idle is high and it wont slow down automatically, 1500 or so, that you have a cracked EGR pipe between the intake and the EGR valve. There are replacements available on line from companies like "Th…e Fiero Store" (MORE)
It isn't a single part, so removing it would be a problem. If you wish to disengage the handbrake, apply light pressure to the button on the end of the parking brake lever. Lift the lever upwards (there will be some resistance) until the button presses inwards. With the button held in, lower the …lever to the floor, then release the button. (MORE)
The rear calipers are bolted on, depending on who rebuilt the calipers last either with torx or allen bolts. Undo both. The old pads and the caliper may not want to come past the rusty edge of the rotor. To get past this I have used a pry bar if the issue is not to bad or a small grinder disk on the… rusty raised edges only. Once the pads and caliper slide off the inside bad is held by a little wimpy clip system and will probably fall out as soon as the caliper clears the rotor. The outer pad is more securely retained and will require a little force to pop out. Screw the piston back into the caliper with the special tool you can buy at any parts or auto tool supplier. Reinstall is reverse of removal from there. (MORE)
There are about ten diferent parts in each door that coulb be a"Latch" All of them have a similar repair proceedure. Remove the inner door panel, to do this remove trim around theinside door handle, the is a philips crew hidden under a littletrim button. Remove the arm rest, three screws, two aces…sed fromthe bottom and one you remove a little rectangel at the top of thehandle portion. The sliding door lock thingy slides to the unlockedpostiion and is suposed to snap off if you pull on it. There arelittle grippy tree retainers into the door around front bottom andrear of the door panel, use a trim removal tool to work them out,if you are not carefull the door panel will be damaged. Once it isloose, window down and lift it up and off the door, remember youhave door lockswitch wires to deal with once you have access. The door handle has little sheet metal nuts holding it on and alittle rod clip. To change this the window must be up. The normalsocet size is 10 mm, the dificulty level 8/10. Special tools aremagnet, and 1/4 drive set with "U" joint and several diferentextentions. The interior door handle is very easy once the door panel is off. The main latch mech is very dificult, the last one I did I removedthe outer door skin for better acess and was still a 10/10 on thepain in the butt scale. Remove inner door panel as above, remove mirror, remove door handleas above, there are a bunch of plastic screws around the inner sideof the door holding the door skin on. Remove. Remove large screwsholding it in, fight with the link rod clips, reassemble reverse ofdissasembly. If you can finish the job with out a blood transfusion you did well (MORE)