There are two brackets that hold the steering column to the dash frame. Remove the bolts that hold the brackets to the dash frame. There is one bolt that connects the universal joint to the rest of the steering shaft. All these bolts are accessible under the dash. Beyond that you need to unplug the electrical, and also if you have an automatic, you need to disconnect the park innerlock cable from the column. (Easier after you have lowered the column out of place)
Yes, most likely. There's a chance that it is something mechanical, but that's a slim chance and only if they have not been used in a LONG time.
If you're not familiar with these problems, I suggest chasing the vacuum lines to listen for a hissing sound either underhood or under dashboard. Remember that the headlight switch actually is an electrical switch AND vacuum valve in-one. Additionally, there is a little black knob (backup vacuum valve) directly under the dashboard in the event that the headlight switch valve doesn't raise the lights. If neither one raises them then you have either a leak or stuck diaphragm. Good luck! -ku2002
You can buy a vacuum troubleshooting guide from Zip Corvette to help you fix the issue.
I fixed it. There are rubber devices called witches hats that go on the vacuum canisters next to the headlights. You can either change the witches hats (quite a job) or just have the vacuum canisters you can get at Ecklers.
Or you can get them at Zip and save some money, here is a link to the headlight components http://www.zip-corvette.com/Zip/dept.asp?dept_id=887where is the diaphragm located on my 1981 Corvette?
Use the trunk popper switch! If this switch does not work then use needle-nose pliers or a paper clip to momentarily touch the two pins on the switch's connector which are vertically adjacent to each other. If there is a dead or missing battery then a very long flat tip screwdriver can be used to manually turn the latching mechanism which the lock normally does.
P.S if that does not work beat the living crap out of the lock, they are very tough so expect a long fight
check the side of tires. most tires are different!
I disconect the line from the tank from the injection system and then hot wire the pump
If you cant do that its a real pain,
You will have to drop the tank and remove the fuel level se4nsor and fuel pump assembly.
Is on the front fire wall right behind the driver. Available from any parts store.
I had a 88 myself and had the same problem, look down inside the console by the shifter and there is probubly change that has fallen down there. Hope this works for ya
There are a few more things that can be wrong, but the most common seems to be the shifter cables. The 88 GT came with 2 cables, both of which are NOT adjustable (and stretch with time), and no longer available to purchase (stock). As they stretch, they lose effectiveness. You can buy replacements that are adjustable (and come fairly accurately adjusted) from RodneyDickman.com. Good luck. I had no one to get advice from and spent a TON of money having my hearbox torn open twice to replace all the gears and synchros before I finally figured this one out. Don't make the same mistake.
1.disconnect negative batt terminal. 2.loosen the adjusting bolt and remove the drivebelt. 3.raise the rear of the vehicle and secure it on jackstands and block the front wheels. 4.unplug the connector and the remove the battery lead from the alternator. 5.remove the pivot bolt and loosen the alternator bracket bolt. 6.remove the alternator by lowering it out of the bottom of the engine compartment.
It is required by law in some places and if you block it off the check engine light will occasionally come on.
The rear "trunk" (decklid) release mechanism is an option, if equipped, and is located on the right side of the dash protrusion on the dash. It will be a switch that shows an opening "trunk". If this switch is not there, then the car was not equipped with rear trunk release.
If you are trying to get into a Fiero trunk that does not have a decklid release mechanism or a broken one, and you have lost the keys, then you will have to actually break into the car to open the trunk. Typically, if the outer key switch is remove, you can insert a long screwdriver into the hole and pop the trunk lock.
"The turn signal flasher is located on the left steering column bracket under the instrument panel, next to the main fuse panel."
The standard cylinder numbering system applies to your engine: The cylinder closest to the front of the engine (the pulley side) is cylinder #1, the next closest is #2, and so on. For example, on your vehicle, #1 is the cylinder closest to the rear of the car on the passenger side, because the rear head is offset more toward the front of the engine.
i found the diagram in the chiltons repair manual
What fan belt? Fiero fans were up front while the engines were in back. You must mean the drive belt located in the engine compartment also known as the alternator belt. The adjusting bolt is located under a triangular plastic cap on top of the right wheel housing. Remove this cap and you will see the bolt down inside. It is not easy to get at and a long ratcheting type of wrench is best to use here. (not sure of the size, maybe someone else might know) loosen the bolt and slide the alternater toward the engine and remove the belt. Replace with a new belt and tighten by prying on the pry section (sorry, don't know how to better describe it) of the alternator; don't pry on the aluminum housing of the alternator. While holding the correct tension, tighten the adjusting bolt and replace the triangular plastic cap. Hope that helps. Good luck!
All Fieros equipped with a distributor (1984 - 1986 4-cyl and 1985 to 1988 V6) have the crank sensor inside the distributor. It may also be known as a distributor pickup or HEI pickup.
Fieros with DIS (1987 to 1988 4 cylinder) have a crank sensor on the back side (engine side) of the ignition module extending into the engine block. The ignition module is the flat base that the ignition coils are attached to.
It is mounted on the throttle body and has four wires plugged into it.
It has a hex on the body to allow it to be unscrewed.
The 2.8 V-6 engine was first used in the Fiero in the 1985 GT. It was called a 2.8H.O. engine and had 140 HP. It was the same in 1986. However, the same engine was used in other GM cars but had 130HP.
In 1988 Fiero horsepower was reduced to 135.
how ever they say 140 HP but dyno tests proove that the 86 fiero gt has 200 HP
It depends on what conversion you are wanting to do.
With an '86 GT, you have the generation 1 headlight assemblies. '87 and later got the generation 2 assemblies, which are typically of better quality.
In my '86 GT I have, I have swapped them over to the generation 2 assemblies and it's very easy to do. You obviously have to have the motors and wiring to do the swap but you also need an important relay that resides in the driver's side fender area. The generation 1 headlights do not have this large relay and use another smaller relay that does not interchange.
For other headlight conversions, it just depends on what you are converting to. Most everyone whom has done a custom job has a detailed build. Do some searching.
there are several reasons for fan failure . temperature rise is not enough to turn on the switches . or one of three switches isn't working two are near the thermostat and oneis on the block or the fan relay check haynes manual pg 121.
1-2-3-4-5-6 Distributor rotates clockwise.
On the 1984 the switch is located on a metal plate in the engine compartment side of the trunk--it is just a pin switch--probably the metal plate has bent down--or if you want just remove the wire on the switch
A work around it to remove the ajar light bulb from the instrument panel. Make sure your trunk light or spare tire compartment light are out or you will drain the battery.
The firing order is 1-3-4-2
The easy way to change a fiero clutch is to use a hoist raise the car off the engine/trans/cradle assembly, Remove the transmission and access the clutch. (THERE IS A LOT LESS WORK TO BE DONE IF YOU SIMPLY UNBOLT THE EXHAUST AND THE MOTOR MOUNT AND PULL THE ENGINE FROM THE CRADLE AFTER YOU HAVE PULLED THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY! THIS WAY THERE IS NO REASON TO PULL ANY BALL JOINTS OR AXLES. AND THE ENGINE HAS STOCK PULLING EYE POINTS TO GRAB IT WITH.)
Next hardest is to raise the rear of the car so the rear of the car is raise a minimum of three feet clear of the ground. Remove rear wheels disconect park brake cables etc. Support the engine, i ussualy do this by using a crossmember above the engine suported by the shock towers. Next loosen but do not remove the front cradle bolts. Disconect the following, exshaust at the down pipe where the system conects to the engine from the portion mounted on the cradle. Disconect the control arms at the ball joint and pull the half shafts out, usually I can get away with only pulling the drivers clear of the wheel bearing and hub assembly, the other I can usaualy get clear of the trans without disturbing that hub assembly. Unhook all conections to the cradle, engine mounts ground cable etc. Remove the rear cradle bolts, the cradle will need to be lowered to the ground, heavy and dangerous, it should pivot on the front bolts to alow access to the back of the trans. Carefull with the hydraulics as these are getting very rare or expensive as are the shift cables. Reinstall reverse proccess. This is dirty dangerous and no fun. I only do this if I powder my clutch far from home and can't aford to have a trany shop do it. But it can be done with basic hand tools and some patience.
The hardest way is to pull the engine out the top. It will come as long as the exshaust manifolds are pulled. Allow several hours to drill out broken exhaust manifold bolts any time you disturb them. The only time I did this type of engine pull on a fiero I covered the rear window with cardboard to protect it from my stupidity.
Firing order on the 2.5 L L4 engine is 1-3-4-2 where do you hook up one to
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